see that is a big foul on an engine that was claimed as having 150. put enough fluid in the cylinders and i can give you a 300psi engine.
are you at a reasonable alt or are you up in the mountains somewhere?
Probably something simple.
- Thread starter WIP77FJ
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see that is a big foul on an engine that was claimed as having 150. put enough fluid in the cylinders and i can give you a 300psi engine.
are you at a reasonable alt or are you up in the mountains somewhere?
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- #42
location is ga so very reasonable alt., I would hope. My dad thinks they got so behind and mixed up an engine and sent us the wrong one, let's just say we paid for 150, and a 104,000 mile engine.
Could a leak down test sway a number 50 psi??
as mentioned, a leak down test, does not test compression, it only tells you where the compression is going. I.E past the rings, or by a blown head gasket.
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- #44
Gotcha thanks.
I had a similar noise. Not quite as high pitched. The fan was hitting the fan shroud. It was a combination of the fan clutch and the the fan humming against the shroud.
That said, who the heck knows what that is. If is was from Cruiser parts it might be a bearing spinning on the crank.
That said, who the heck knows what that is. If is was from Cruiser parts it might be a bearing spinning on the crank.
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- #46
I had a similar noise. Not quite as high pitched. The fan was hitting the fan shroud. It was a combination of the fan clutch and the the fan humming against the shroud.
That said, who the heck knows what that is. If is was from Cruiser parts it might be a bearing spinning on the crank.
Do they not give out reputable engines? What's the going consensus?
Uising your top # @ 110lbs and they're quoted 150lbs more than a 25% swing. Did they give individual #'s on each cyldr?
I didn't see which gasket(s) you replaced. Sounds like it was intake/exhaust? Then the noise seemed to get worse?
Here's a check for that--Important:::Engine needs to be COLD. Have a hose or fire extinguisher handy just in case--
Get some carb cleaner-Start engine-noise starts-spray cleaner around intake/exhaust. If the intake is leaking, noise will change and so will engine RPM. If exhaust, noise will change. Don't run for very long while looking to avoid heat increase and potential fire.
You could just use water, but if it is an intake leak, you risk getting the water into the engine-in that case, keep running after trying the spray thing---prob. not a real big deal, though--they do make water injection rigs for race cars--.
All this should tell you if there is a prob with the gasket(s) you suspect.
Here's a check for that--Important:::Engine needs to be COLD. Have a hose or fire extinguisher handy just in case--
Get some carb cleaner-Start engine-noise starts-spray cleaner around intake/exhaust. If the intake is leaking, noise will change and so will engine RPM. If exhaust, noise will change. Don't run for very long while looking to avoid heat increase and potential fire.
You could just use water, but if it is an intake leak, you risk getting the water into the engine-in that case, keep running after trying the spray thing---prob. not a real big deal, though--they do make water injection rigs for race cars--.
All this should tell you if there is a prob with the gasket(s) you suspect.
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- #49
They said 150 across the board. Of course this was on the phone though and not in the invoice, which we had to call for. I used the search function and people seem pretty divided to go with them or not especially for an engine, too late now.
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- #50
I've done this already engine rpm went, up noise did not change though.
water is fine in a running engine.
you can use an intake vacuum line to suck water into a running engine in an attempt to clean out carbon that is "glow plugging"....look it up been covered here along with seafoam.
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- #53
The plot thickens. Dr. Watson we have a vacuum leak.
The thing is wouldn't the noise change like at all? it's still just as loud and the pitch is the exact same. And shouldn't it be at least somewhat quiet If the noise was from a bad manifold seal?
I'm still not convinced that it is not metal(I could easily be wrong, though)
Some things to check:
Front pulley: Nothing in the way, no splash pan hitting the pulley?
Belts: All the belts and pulleys are clear-nothing even close to contacting them(fuel line/water hose clamp, etc.)?
Radiator shroud
Something fell down inside the flywheel housing-bolt/screw?(might be able to feel around on the flywheel to see if there's a suspect gouge or something that might be contacting it on the forward side(this should vary w/rpm, though).
Some things to check:
Front pulley: Nothing in the way, no splash pan hitting the pulley?
Belts: All the belts and pulleys are clear-nothing even close to contacting them(fuel line/water hose clamp, etc.)?
Radiator shroud
Something fell down inside the flywheel housing-bolt/screw?(might be able to feel around on the flywheel to see if there's a suspect gouge or something that might be contacting it on the forward side(this should vary w/rpm, though).
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- #55
Im starting to think more internally. Will update if the cruiserparts people want me to tear er' apart... again....
1mo project is almost at 3 now
This is for sure a vac leak---to add to the problems--not a show stopper, though. still need to get to the bottom of this squeal--wish I had more ideas to help troubleshoot it
Just thought of something else--at the risk of asking you to crank it up again-since the clutch and stuff is not there, try
1. disconnecting all the aux eq(fan/alt-remove the belt--I think this was suggested earlier-see if the noise is still there.
2. open the timing cover on the flywheel. start the engine. squirt(liberally) oil/Kroil/PB Blaster or any kind of lube into the hole to coat the forward side of the flywheel-see if the noise changes
Just thought of something else--at the risk of asking you to crank it up again-since the clutch and stuff is not there, try
1. disconnecting all the aux eq(fan/alt-remove the belt--I think this was suggested earlier-see if the noise is still there.
2. open the timing cover on the flywheel. start the engine. squirt(liberally) oil/Kroil/PB Blaster or any kind of lube into the hole to coat the forward side of the flywheel-see if the noise changes
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I dont know if its the source of your noise but an increase in rpms is typical of a vaccum leak. You can some times see the carb cleaner bubble @ the leak as it's being sucked in.
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- #58
Yeah that squeal is first on my list, I definitely think the vac leak is a separate probably not as bad thing going on right now.
I agree, I think there is a minor vac leak that is really no big deal right now, the squeal sounded very metallic but did not seem to change with RPM's, how much do you have installed in the rear? I assume just the bellhousing and flywheel? did you crawl under it and look for anything shiny that is external metal on metal contact even in the front, harmonic balancer, pulleys, even disconnect the water pump for 20 seconds and see if it makes noise. I know you said it is coming from the back but just encase.
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- #60
I'm gonna try the belt trick tomorrow that's pretty much a last resort. I'm not to sure about the harmonic balancer all I know is I took it off my old engine and slapped it on this one.
And just the flywheel in the back.