Probably something simple. (1 Viewer)

[Fast Eddy]

It's totally unclear to me from your pictures what part of the flywheel is hitting what part of the engine.

You don't want a bandaid at that location. The washers will wear out and you'll have a floppy flywheel in a fairly short time. It needs full engagement to the crank. You need to figure out why it's doing what it's doing.

 

[brian]

looks to me like the flywheel is just ever so slightly getting into the boss around the rear main seal.

 

[WIP77FJ]

How would I remedy this situation?

 

[DougAustinTx]

Measure where the wear pattern would hit on the engine. Is it the metal boss, or is it the rubber main seal. Is it possible the main seal is sticking out too far? Can't tell from the photos.

 

[WIP77FJ]

Measure where the wear pattern would hit on the engine. Is it the metal boss, or is it the rubber main seal. Is it possible the main seal is sticking out too far? Can't tell from the photos.

Seal shows no wear on it, and the main boss from what I can tell has no wear either but the position of the marks on the flywheel matches up with the boss.

 

[vtgbeemer]

I re-read the entire thread and you mentioned having this flywheel machined? Have you put a straight edge on the flywheel? Did this flywheel come with this engine or off your old? Did you torque the flywheel when installed? The pics don't help much.

 

[WIP77FJ]

I re-read the entire thread and you mentioned having this flywheel machined? Have you put a straight edge on the flywheel? Did this flywheel come with this engine or off your old? Did you torque the flywheel when installed? The pics don't help much.

Flywheel came off the old 2f, only the face of the flywheel that hits the clutch was machined. You can feel the line of contact on the flywheel where I assume has been rubbing the boss, even though I see no abnormal marking on the boss. and everything was torqued to spec.

 

[sggoat]

I love it when a plan comes together.
The higher pitched sound would come from the faster spinning part(outside)-but then again, you don't really have something to compare to--glad the oily trick located a suspect--

Sprayed down the flywheel with good ole wd-40 the pitch went up. Then it sat for about 10 min and upon start-up noise was almost completely gone, taking off the flywheel now.

 

[brian]

How would I remedy this situation?

at this point i'd put it on a pallet and call them to come back and get it.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Now that the flywheel is off, put a straight-edge across the back of the crank. Does it touch the boss? (Never heard it called that.

Have you talked to anyone at CruiserParts about this?

The only way I can think of that this can occur is if the engine was rebuilt incorrectly and the thrust clearance was not set properly. Someone more experienced in engine building would have to comment.

It's

 

[WIP77FJ]

put a straight edge on and it doesn't touch the main bearing, although it is pretty close to the rear seal. also it seams to wobble on the crankshaft part not sure if I had it on there firmly though.

 

[WIP77FJ]

flywheel is straight too.

 

[sggoat]

Wobble would be bad. Do you have a magnetic base dial indicator? This would tell you if the runout is severe

put a straight edge on and it doesn't touch the main bearing, although it is pretty close to the rear seal. also it seams to wobble on the crankshaft part not sure if I had it on there firmly though.

 

[WIP77FJ]

Wobble would be bad. Do you have a magnetic base dial indicator? This would tell you if the runout is severe

Yes we do, but we couldn't get it situated in a good position, I'll try that again.

 

[WIP77FJ]

Only moved two thousandths of an inch.

 

[terrx]

Is it possible the flywheel bolts are a bit too long? Possibly from missing a washer or lock plate under the heads? Looking at a parts diagram the flywheel bolts go all the way through the crank flange. Perhaps they can rub on something behind like the main bearing.

 

[WIP77FJ]

Did some research and they actually make washers for flywheels sorta like shims just not on a 2f, so we're gonna try that tomorrow along with calling cruiserparts.

 

[FJ40Jim]

It is theoretically possible to machine the crank and end up with it .010" forward in the block. There are oversize thrust bearings available. The normal procedure is to machine .005 off the front and rear thrust faces of the crank. But if the crank had a torn up rear thrust face (not uncommon), then it may have been necessary to machine all of it off the rear face, which would move the crank forward.

BUT... There normally is more than .010 of clearance between the FW and the rear bearing boss.

I would mount up the FW again and try to get an eyeball or a feeler blade up between FW and rear of block, see if there is indeed negative clearance.

 

[DougAustinTx]

You are going to need to pry the flywheel forward and backward while measuring to see what the total clearance is on the thrust bearing. The crank is probably moving forward in the block when the engine is actually running, enough to have the flywheel touch the boss at the rear. This is likely repairable by dropping the pan and doing some hand-fitting on the thrust bearing, but not sure it makes sense on an engine that you just bought.

 

[sggoat]

With all that noise, there's gotta be some part(or parts) that show visual(or tactile) signs of rubbing-bolt ends, bolt heads, flywheel surface, crankflange surface, bell housing--something---look first where you squirted the oil--