Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

Stumpalama

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I believe the water pump is original, and I know the crank pulley seal is. But you don't have to remove he crank pulley to do the a/c compressor do you?
No, I was just listing other things that could be done while you're down there.
 
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Did the FJ62 no slop shifter fix. Replaced the urethane OEM bushings (which were non-existent on my truck) with brass ones from Lowes.

Sanding to get the right inner and outer diameters took forever with less than optimal tools but huge improvement!
 
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Betteron2wheels

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Did the FJ62 no slop shifter fix. Replaced the urethane OEM bushings (which were non-existent on my truck) with brass ones from Lowes.

Sanding to get the right inner and outer diameters took forever with less than optimal tools but huge improvement!
Anyone doing something like this in the Rockville area let me know. I have a mini lathe that could use a workout.
 

Pacer

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Stumpalama

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No hard parts. The bearings usually show so little wear that they aren't worth the trouble of replacing, as long as there is no water intrusion. I used the whole kit, except for the 2 upper chamber teflon rings, because they are not the proper size and they don't wear much, if at all anyway.
 

Pacer

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No hard parts. The bearings usually show so little wear that they aren't worth the trouble of replacing, as long as there is no water intrusion. I used the whole kit, except for the 2 upper chamber teflon rings, because they are not the proper size and they don't wear much, if at all anyway.
I ask because I have sloppy steering but no leaks.
 

Stumpalama

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You can start with the sector shaft adjustment. It's the slotted rod and nut on the top of the steering gearbox. Pu a screwdriver in the slot, loosen the locknut, then turn the screwdriver clockwise 1/2 turn, tighten nut, turn on truck and check tightness...
This thread explains it:
Steering freeplay/ gear box adjusting screw
 

Pacer

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You can start with the sector shaft adjustment. It's the slotted rod and nut on the top of the steering gearbox. Pu a screwdriver in the slot, loosen the locknut, then turn the screwdriver clockwise 1/2 turn, tighten nut, turn on truck and check tightness...
This thread explains it:
Steering freeplay/ gear box adjusting screw
Done been done!

Bearings are snug, rod ends are solid, as you suggest, drag link ends are tighter than factory spec, I've tightened the set screw on top of the box till things get too tight then back it down an RCH.

After thinking about all that, I probably have whooped spring bushings a'la @Jakes40.

It's just an old truck that gets beet up every month then expected to preform on the road.
 
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Experimenting with some NOS parts and powder coating this evening. I was told you can powder over the factory e-coat since it’s electrostatically applied like powder coat. I used Prismatic powder, RAL-5017. It’s the closest I could get to Nordic Blue. The results were good but I think I need a better powder coat gun than the Eastwood setup at the shop:

B04AF2A2-2253-4C73-8BBF-2FEA5053ED31.jpeg
 
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