Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

WARNING: Yet another Geek post! Anderson connector classified Top Secret mod.

If you want to surface mount an Anderson connector, here is what you need to do.
Cut out a section of the bottom of the Anderson connector so the wires can bend out of the bottom of the connector and into holes on the mounting surface.
Works great with smaller wires. Might be a bit of a challenge with super large diameter wires.
A must do... Place some type of spacer (washers, strip of rubber, something) to lift the mounted Anderson a little bit above the surface. This will make space for the mating connector to fit into the surface mounted connector.

anderson cut 1.webp


OK, enough Geek stuff. Now I will shut up.... well maybe for a little while. :geek:
 
Made some step/sliders for the tundra last week.
IMG_1851.webp
 
Ok, I get it. Not surprised.
I’m sure you guys are posting “likes” because I said I was shutting up not because you like the Anderson mounting idea.
🤣
in my case the ""like" is hoping to encourage you to continue sharing these nuggets of electrical wisdom! :)
 
Working on my cargo area drawer setup, V2.0 reboot...I took apart my first one to scavenge a lot of parts. After a fair bit of research on other options out there, I gleaned a lot of info for build style, materials, and mounting options. I decided to go a bit lower with V2.0 and will do a single large drawer that about 32"x36"x8" which should give me a lot of great space. I'm also doing a separate attachable module for the front where the middle seats go on the passenger side to make it a full 6' sleeper section with underneath storage too...this can be removed if I want to put in the passenger side middle row seat if needed. I'm also doing a slightly lower platform in front of the spare to hold my new Iceco fridge...I got a smaller 47 quart dual zone that fits perfectly there right behind the driver. Lid opens both ways or you can just pop off completely to load/unload from inside or outside. This should all tie in nicely and will give a lot of stowaway space for my Mojab hydraulic jack, power tank, and backup fluids/parts in front of the drawer box (for tools, cooking, etc.).

Materials wise, I'm using a 1/2"x3"x48 flat aluminum bar (4 pieces) to be able to bolt on to existing floor points, then use the right angle tabs to attach the box to them for ultimate security and no straps or turnbuckles. I also plan to get a full sheet of bamboo plywood for the main finishes...I love the look and it's nice and hard! Not cheap, but I think 1 full sheet will be close to getting it done. There is a flooring supplier on the south side of the Baltimore beltway that stocks several styles & thicknesses...I have some samples coming to confirm what i want. I can then order and pick up myself so I don't need to worry about crazy shipping costs.

Here's some inspiration from another forum member in CA that builds these...I'm doing a hybrid version using his styles, but doing the extruded framing like the ADGU option rather than an all wood construction. One pick is of the 3/4 size that I'm doing with the inside spare, and one is with the bamboo plywood.

And then my progress so far...I have the main box frame fully constructed and need to measure out to get exactly what I need for the 2 front boxes now...super amped at how V2.0 is coming along! The slides for the drawers are very hefty, and claimed to hold 300+ lbs...they are a beast. I have 5 attachment points on each side, so they aren't going anywhere!

tempImageNmvQ73.webp


tempImageLtFMiO.webp


tempImageGWNuGg.webp


tempImage4s9AuT.webp


tempImagedzwleh.webp
 
Working on my cargo area drawer setup, V2.0 reboot...I took apart my first one to scavenge a lot of parts. After a fair bit of research on other options out there, I gleaned a lot of info for build style, materials, and mounting options. I decided to go a bit lower with V2.0 and will do a single large drawer that about 32"x36"x8" which should give me a lot of great space. I'm also doing a separate attachable module for the front where the middle seats go on the passenger side to make it a full 6' sleeper section with underneath storage too...this can be removed if I want to put in the passenger side middle row seat if needed. I'm also doing a slightly lower platform in front of the spare to hold my new Iceco fridge...I got a smaller 47 quart dual zone that fits perfectly there right behind the driver. Lid opens both ways or you can just pop off completely to load/unload from inside or outside. This should all tie in nicely and will give a lot of stowaway space for my Mojab hydraulic jack, power tank, and backup fluids/parts in front of the drawer box (for tools, cooking, etc.).

Materials wise, I'm using a 1/2"x3"x48 flat aluminum bar (4 pieces) to be able to bolt on to existing floor points, then use the right angle tabs to attach the box to them for ultimate security and no straps or turnbuckles. I also plan to get a full sheet of bamboo plywood for the main finishes...I love the look and it's nice and hard! Not cheap, but I think 1 full sheet will be close to getting it done. There is a flooring supplier on the south side of the Baltimore beltway that stocks several styles & thicknesses...I have some samples coming to confirm what i want. I can then order and pick up myself so I don't need to worry about crazy shipping costs.

Here's some inspiration from another forum member in CA that builds these...I'm doing a hybrid version using his styles, but doing the extruded framing like the ADGU option rather than an all wood construction. One pick is of the 3/4 size that I'm doing with the inside spare, and one is with the bamboo plywood.

And then my progress so far...I have the main box frame fully constructed and need to measure out to get exactly what I need for the 2 front boxes now...super amped at how V2.0 is coming along! The slides for the drawers are very hefty, and claimed to hold 300+ lbs...they are a beast. I have 5 attachment points on each side, so they aren't going anywhere!

View attachment 4070062

View attachment 4070063

View attachment 4070064

View attachment 4070065

View attachment 4070066
Sickkkk. How do you like those locking rails? Is it the vevor brand or another one? My buddy helped me build my diy bambed platform that I can disassemble to make it easy for storage. Thinking of putting rails on the inner side of the legs to have 1 drawer.

IMG_5214.webp
 
Making some progress! Got the H55 trans and TC removed, rear main oil seal (had been leaking forever) replaced, pilot bearing replaced, and flywheel dropped off at the machine shop. New clutch will be installed after the flywheel comes back. I was really excited that my exhaust unbolted from the header without a fuss...I thought for sure at least one of those studs would snap. I have to replace the tach sensor that screws into the bellhousing, as it suffered broken wires on removal, and I can attest that the tariffs are real on imported parts (I had to order this one from MegaZip in Japan). I was shocked at how much a replacement costs. There is also one wire in the trans wiring harness that broke at the plastic connection while fighting to get it apart, but I think I am able to fix without too much trouble.

Now to get the trans and TC up onto the workbench, take apart the split case TC and rebuild the TC onto the new H55! At least the process is fresh in my mind. :)

h55 on ground.webp


flywheel.webp


trans wiring broken wire.webp


tach sensor.webp
 
Making some progress! Got the H55 trans and TC removed, rear main oil seal (had been leaking forever) replaced, pilot bearing replaced, and flywheel dropped off at the machine shop. New clutch will be installed after the flywheel comes back. I was really excited that my exhaust unbolted from the header without a fuss...I thought for sure at least one of those studs would snap. I have to replace the tach sensor that screws into the bellhousing, as it suffered broken wires on removal, and I can attest that the tariffs are real on imported parts (I had to order this one from MegaZip in Japan). I was shocked at how much a replacement costs. There is also one wire in the trans wiring harness that broke at the plastic connection while fighting to get it apart, but I think I am able to fix without too much trouble.

Now to get the trans and TC up onto the workbench, take apart the split case TC and rebuild the TC onto the new H55! At least the process is fresh in my mind. :)
i wanna see the inside of that trans
 
That's very er, progressive of you @TRDdrew. And you think you know someone!! 🤣
Never know what you’ll find once you twist a few nuts off… o_O
 
Back
Top Bottom