The wife and I took a ride south on Skyline Drive from 211 to 33. Through Harrisonburg and up RT 11. The Cruiser ran great.
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The 40 is perfect for Skyline Drive. 105 miles at no more than 35 mph.

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The wife and I took a ride south on Skyline Drive from 211 to 33. Through Harrisonburg and up RT 11. The Cruiser ran great.
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View attachment 3411918








Looks great!I've been picking away at little projects on mine to get ready for Fall Crawl....
1 - Took apart e-brakes and installed Superior extended dogbone struts, really helped to firm up the e-brake grab that was always weaker than I preferred. Confident now that it'll hold on a good grade...my driveway is pretty steep, and it holds hard both forward and backward with a normal handle pull. Even when properly adjusted before, it never held this well.
2 - Changed my diff fluids...found the rear to be normal stinky murky fluid without any shavings on the magnet. Front didn't have any shavings either, but was more soupy/frothy and had suspended bubbles in it like a cappuccino foam. Was also a little more grey like the CV grease that came out with my old axles...changed these out to the Longfield 30 spline ChroMo's right before Coal Miner. I did change the inner seals with the axles and the new ones came packed with an orange grease and did the rest of the cavity with Valvoline synthetic. Hoping this was an old issue that had a little joint grease infiltrating the diff fluid, but not really sure that it could have been that much. Birf grease in the old joints was slightly thin, but not a soupy mush like it was full of diff fluid. I'm taking it to the beach this weekend, so I'll check after putting a few hundred miles on it. Still need to change the center diff oil too.
3 - Bumped up to a 1/2" spring spacer in the rear and a 2" Delta unit up front to finally level the truck out a bit. I had the Delta 1" up front at Coal Miner, but still not as balanced as I had hoped. Sitting nice and level now with about a 1/2" rake forward that will flatten out when loaded up a bit. I know that this is not the ideal way to get some lift, but this should help for Fall Crawl with an extra inch clearance on the skids and rear bumper that took a bit of a beating at AOAA. These are in addition to the OME 2" lift as a cheap ($200) way to get some extra clearance. My goal is to go with a Dobinson's upgrade over the winter and still really torn about trying the jump to 37"s or keep the 315's. I'm measuring about 3.5"+ of lift if measured from center of hub to bottom of flare (about 23.75-24").
4 - Got the BellFab interior spare mount installed...showed up a day late for Coal Miner to get it in for that trip...loving the "naked" rear end now and got some Slee caps that fit perfectly on the spindles to protect them with a waterproof o-ringed seal. This gives me the option to pop on the rear swingarm/s with one nut for an extended trip to get the spare back out of the rig.
Sooo, if you've read this far, anyone have a set of 37's on 80 spec wheels that would let me try them on mine just for fit? If so, I'd make it worth the effort for you to give me the final push either way to keep the 315's or bump up at some point.
And some pics for content!
![]()
I've been picking away at little projects on mine to get ready for Fall Crawl....
1 - Took apart e-brakes and installed Superior extended dogbone struts, really helped to firm up the e-brake grab that was always weaker than I preferred. Confident now that it'll hold on a good grade...my driveway is pretty steep, and it holds hard both forward and backward with a normal handle pull. Even when properly adjusted before, it never held this well.
2 - Changed my diff fluids...found the rear to be normal stinky murky fluid without any shavings on the magnet. Front didn't have any shavings either, but was more soupy/frothy and had suspended bubbles in it like a cappuccino foam. Was also a little more grey like the CV grease that came out with my old axles...changed these out to the Longfield 30 spline ChroMo's right before Coal Miner. I did change the inner seals with the axles and the new ones came packed with an orange grease and did the rest of the cavity with Valvoline synthetic. Hoping this was an old issue that had a little joint grease infiltrating the diff fluid, but not really sure that it could have been that much. Birf grease in the old joints was slightly thin, but not a soupy mush like it was full of diff fluid. I'm taking it to the beach this weekend, so I'll check after putting a few hundred miles on it. Still need to change the center diff oil too.
3 - Bumped up to a 1/2" spring spacer in the rear and a 2" Delta unit up front to finally level the truck out a bit. I had the Delta 1" up front at Coal Miner, but still not as balanced as I had hoped. Sitting nice and level now with about a 1/2" rake forward that will flatten out when loaded up a bit. I know that this is not the ideal way to get some lift, but this should help for Fall Crawl with an extra inch clearance on the skids and rear bumper that took a bit of a beating at AOAA. These are in addition to the OME 2" lift as a cheap ($200) way to get some extra clearance. My goal is to go with a Dobinson's upgrade over the winter and still really torn about trying the jump to 37"s or keep the 315's. I'm measuring about 3.5"+ of lift if measured from center of hub to bottom of flare (about 23.75-24").
4 - Got the BellFab interior spare mount installed...showed up a day late for Coal Miner to get it in for that trip...loving the "naked" rear end now and got some Slee caps that fit perfectly on the spindles to protect them with a waterproof o-ringed seal. This gives me the option to pop on the rear swingarm/s with one nut for an extended trip to get the spare back out of the rig.
Sooo, if you've read this far, anyone have a set of 37's on 80 spec wheels that would let me try them on mine just for fit? If so, I'd make it worth the effort for you to give me the final push either way to keep the 315's or bump up at some point.
And some pics for content!
![]()
I saw on the 80 series tech about an upgrade for the handle, so I bough this and also the part that fits inside of the drum. Haven't installed the hand brake upgrade yet, but had the rears apart, so I put the dog bone in and had a great improvement.Details on the e-brake upgrade you did? I've not heard of this before.

I saw on the 80 series tech about an upgrade for the handle, so I bough this and also the part that fits inside of the drum. Haven't installed the hand brake upgrade yet, but had the rears apart, so I put the dog bone in and had a great improvement.
![]()
Superior Handbrake Upgrade Kit Suitable For Toyota LandCruiser HZJ-FZJ75/76/78/79/80 Series (Kit) SUP-79HBUP | Superior Engineering
Huge range of heavy duty 4X4 accessories & suspension parts for most makes & models of 4WD vehicles. Buy online. Australia wide delivery.www.superiorengineering.com.au
And here's the dog bone...slightly longer than stock, so it gives a better overall bite with more contact with the shoes in the drum it seems...
Superior Upgraded Handbrake Dogbone Suitable For Toyota LandCruiser 80/105 Series (Pair) SUP-LCRHBDBUP | Superior Engineering
Huge range of heavy duty 4X4 accessories & suspension parts for most makes & models of 4WD vehicles. Buy online. Australia wide delivery.www.superiorengineering.com.au
Since I'm happy with the drum upgrade, I don't think I need the handbrake part for in the cab...let me know if you want it and I'd be happy to pass along at the meeting next week as a gift for you (first dibs) or anyone after you that could use it.![]()
Sounds good! I'll bring you the handle kit at the next meeting on the 6th.I'm in! I'll give it a shot. Thanks.
This is the second one i've received.You must be really close to the shop. I tightened the mailing radius on those way up.
i mucked around w/ my e-brake 2 years ago to pass inspection. got it holding OK on my angled driveway in both Fwd and Rev. In the last couple months I noticed it doesn't hold so well anymore, with the handle pulled ALL THE WAY. argh.I've been picking away at little projects on mine to get ready for Fall Crawl....
1 - Took apart e-brakes and installed Superior extended dogbone struts, really helped to firm up the e-brake grab that was always weaker than I preferred. Confident now that it'll hold on a good grade...my driveway is pretty steep, and it holds hard both forward and backward with a normal handle pull. Even when properly adjusted before, it never held this well.
i mucked around w/ my e-brake 2 years ago to pass inspection. got it holding OK on my angled driveway in both Fwd and Rev. In the last couple months I noticed it doesn't hold so well anymore, with the handle pulled ALL THE WAY. argh.
loathing pulling the drums and performing the FSM adjustment again. might have to try out these dogbones, or a new cable.
The hand brake mod from Superior is supposed to take care of a stretched cable as it adds some "length" to the pull with the cam system. Rather than being linear with the handle pull, it increases due to the extended radius of the mod. Watch the vid in the link if you haven't yet as it's pretty informative. I got the dogbones along with the handle mod, but found that they did just fine for me without the lever mod since I had the drums apart anyway to adjust and install.i mucked around w/ my e-brake 2 years ago to pass inspection. got it holding OK on my angled driveway in both Fwd and Rev. In the last couple months I noticed it doesn't hold so well anymore, with the handle pulled ALL THE WAY. argh.
loathing pulling the drums and performing the FSM adjustment again. might have to try out these dogbones, or a new cable.
i read a recent post here or FB that it can be accomplished without dropping the tank. IIRC there is a plastic grommet which was the hardest to release.There was a guy selling a new cable recently on mud. If I hadn't bought one for the shelf last year I would have picked it up. I've read you need to drop the fuel tank to replace it though.
i'll take a look at the videos. was only aware of dogbones. part of me says to replace the cable and shoes...but plenty of others have said the e-brake was terrible from the day it left the factory.The hand brake mod from Superior is supposed to take care of a stretched cable as it adds some "length" to the pull with the cam system. Rather than being linear with the handle pull, it increases due to the extended radius of the mod. Watch the vid in the link if you haven't yet as it's pretty informative. I got the dogbones along with the handle mod, but found that they did just fine for me without the lever mod since I had the drums apart anyway to adjust and install.
That is looking dang good, ET. Nice and balanced. I wouldn't change a thing!