Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (17 Viewers)

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@Explorer4Hire Some alternators on some engines don't actually provide charge until the engine reaches and maintains a certain RPM. @emorth?

I wired an idiot light to the charge wire in my 40 to let me know if it was/wasn't working.
 
There is a fusible link under the 80amp main that can appearantly get corroded and cause issues... seeing how it’s getting charging voltage I doubt that’s it but I’ll check it. I still don’t know why I’m getting different voltage on different sides of that 7.5 amp fuse terminal (fuse removed). If I can’t track it down I’m just going to replace the fusible link, 7.5 fuse, alternator (with Toyota), and cross my fingers. My gut is telling me it’s something strictly in the fault circuit and not the charging circuit. Either something from alternator to fuse or a problem in fuse block itself... I dunno. I’m going to bed now. Tomorrow will be a beautiful day and I’ll have the top off : )
 
Well.... the hot/cold lever busted off today... I had to take everything apart to figure it out. I busted a plastic retainer on a plastic pin and chipped the ridges on the pin itself. I was able to snap a washer in pretty well in place of the retainer but this is not super solid. At least it’s a temporary fix until I figure out what to do.
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I though about ordering the part below but the parts guy said it would not work unless I changed out all kinds of other stuff.... not sure why.

 
Well.... the hot/cold lever busted off today... I had to take everything apart to figure it out. I busted a plastic retainer on a plastic pin and chipped the ridges on the pin itself. I was able to snap a washer in pretty well in place of the retainer but this is not super solid. At least it’s a temporary fix until I figure out what to do.
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I though about ordering the part below but the parts guy said it would not work unless I changed out all kinds of other stuff.... not sure why.

Does it just pivot on that piece? If so, why not just replace it with a bolt and washers and a nylon nut?
 
Does it just pivot on that piece? If so, why not just replace it with a bolt and washers and a nylon nut?
I think that’s all it does. There are 2 cables controlled by that leaver... one is for heater core and one is for heat/cool mixture. The blue cable is seized up. I’ll look through the FSM and see what can be done. I think I forced it and it popped the locking clip. I’ll tear everything apart again once I get a game plan. Hopefully I can manually operate that cable to cold somehow!
 
Does it just pivot on that piece? If so, why not just replace it with a bolt and washers and a nylon nut?

Boom... someone did exactly that... now to loosen that blue cable and re-clip it properly...

 
Boom... someone did exactly that... now to loosen that blue cable and re-clip it properly...

I'm all for simple solutions when they present themselves.
 
I hope I get that inspector for the diesel 🤣

3/4 of my vehicles right now are riding dirty with expired safety, every time I show up to my local spot the inspector hasn’t showed up for the day or is “out to lunch”.

I think enforcement has been pretty lenient during Covid anyways.
 
I hope I get that inspector for the diesel 🤣

3/4 of my vehicles right now are riding dirty with expired safety, every time I show up to my local spot the inspector hasn’t showed up for the day or is “out to lunch”.

I think enforcement has been pretty lenient during Covid anyways.
Same here they got me on the frayed seat belt and cracked corner light lol hopefully they don't notice the parking brake not working on my other rig
 
In NC, anything 20+ years old just needs a safety inspection (until needing nothing at 35+ years) and cursory glance at the engine, BUT, SC has no state inspections at all, and I'm buying a house there in a couple weeks...It's good to have options.
 

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