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- Thread starter
- #42
No clearance issues on the crossmember. Delete the loop and the heavy bracket it attaches to.
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- #43
@klinetime574 Just curious what gear Oil you are running and thoughts on the following...
I'm getting a bit of chatter coming from the gears during the warm up period. Once warmed up completely, no noise. It happens in 2nd-4th with light to medium acceleration. Harder acceleration or RPMs above 2,000 no chatter.
I'm getting a bit of chatter coming from the gears during the warm up period. Once warmed up completely, no noise. It happens in 2nd-4th with light to medium acceleration. Harder acceleration or RPMs above 2,000 no chatter.
@mwebfj60 Currently the transmission and transfer have Sta-Lube GL4 in them.
I plan to run GL5 O'Reilley house brand next. The "Master Pro" name. I can get it in 5 gallon buckets for $60. Versus $15 a gallon otherwise. And the Sta-Lube is even more money.
This thing makes so many noises that I don't mind as long as the fluid doesn't have metal in it. (Should prolly change them soon). My H55F can't row through the gears as quickly. But I think that's just a new trans thing. Only have about 10,000 miles on it.
I plan to run GL5 O'Reilley house brand next. The "Master Pro" name. I can get it in 5 gallon buckets for $60. Versus $15 a gallon otherwise. And the Sta-Lube is even more money.
This thing makes so many noises that I don't mind as long as the fluid doesn't have metal in it. (Should prolly change them soon). My H55F can't row through the gears as quickly. But I think that's just a new trans thing. Only have about 10,000 miles on it.
I recently switched to this stuff and it seemed to quiet the chatter a bit for me.
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- #46
I'm currently running the Sta Lube GL4. I might give the hypoid GL5 a shot. I see a lot of people are running Redline MT90 but at $60 a gallon...
I ran that stuff. Didn't experience any changes. Although that was in my ruined 4spd. Lol
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- #48
Ended up having to adjust the slave again...chirping/squeel from throwout again...so posted this. If I had known the differences between the two systems beforehand, I probably would have changed my slave and fork to post 85 parts...or maybe not...looks like the bellhousing mounting is different.
To Spin or Not To Spin...A Throwout Bearing Debate
To Spin or Not To Spin...A Throwout Bearing Debate
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once I knew the diffs, Tcase and trans weren't leaking, I filled them with mobile synthetic. I'm due for a change actually.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
This is normal. The gear train is large and heavy. It takes awhile for the syncros to bring the gears up to speed. Shift it at a steady but slow pace. It isn't a Honda Civic.
I've been using Chevron DeloGear synthetic 75w-90 in mine for the last few months. It's rated MT-1, you can buy it at AutoZone and it seems like good stuff for $5.99 a quart.
http://www.autozone.com/greases-and...nthetic-gear-oil-sae-75w-90-32-oz-/443149_0_0
Thanks for the input Cruiserdrew. I like the trans. Really thinking I will leave it in place for my future plans of V8 swap. I just need to remember it isn't a Civic. My Corolla shifts terribly too. I grind into second occasionally
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- #52
Update to my clutch slave cylinder. I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't stay adjusted...it would be chirping from the throwout bearing touching the pressure plate sometimes, other times it would be separated as normal. Took a drive to go camping, stopped at a light and had a knocking sound...long story short, my crank thrust is .019. Well past the .012 limit and the .006 std. No bueno.
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- #53
Just a follow up, I replaced the main bearings and the new flanged bearing brought the crank thrust clearance back into spec. A few hundred miles later and the clutch has stayed in adjustment.
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- #54
After running around for 500 miles or so here are my thoughts on the change. I'm running stock gears with BFG 32x11.5x15.
Around town starting out in 1st has me shifting by the time the rear wheels get to the crosswalk. Starting out in 2nd is fine with a slow takeoff but a quick takeoff requires slipping the clutch out slower with higher RPMs. 3rd through 5th are great with good acceleration and spacing. 70mph equates to 2400 rpm on the highway.
1st and Low crawls along real well.
I would have preferred the H55 to be the H42 gearing with an overdrive gear but I'm still very happy with the overall driveability.
Around town starting out in 1st has me shifting by the time the rear wheels get to the crosswalk. Starting out in 2nd is fine with a slow takeoff but a quick takeoff requires slipping the clutch out slower with higher RPMs. 3rd through 5th are great with good acceleration and spacing. 70mph equates to 2400 rpm on the highway.
1st and Low crawls along real well.
I would have preferred the H55 to be the H42 gearing with an overdrive gear but I'm still very happy with the overall driveability.
This stuff is amazing !
https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer
https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer
Thoughts on maybe stepping up to 33's to help 1st gear a bit, or maybe going to 4:11 pumpkins?
I'm planning this upgrade soon and will be in the same boat as you. Although, I have 33's... not sure how much that extra inch will help though.
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- #57
I've read that's a great combo behind the H55. I messed with the numbers before the swap and the 373 with 32s seemed good, 3-5 is just about perfect. It gets onto the highway and up to speed great, just the start up is an in between...but not by much. I was thinking about throwing a set of 411s in one of these weekends just to see.
John Staton
SILVER Star
As mentioned in other thread....great write up!! I plan to buy this from Cool Cruisers in Texas since I can pick it up myself. I can see that the kit listed most of the parts needed that you included in your initial list, but maybe not all of them. Just want to make sure everything is in order before getting started. I will be doing this on an '83 FJ60. Outside of what is listed, what else will I need to source outside of gear oil. My mechanic has not problem doing the driveshaft mods.
Cool Cruiser H55 kit:
5 Speed Toyota Kit - H55F - w/Shifter & Gasket Kit
Cool Cruiser H55 kit:
5 Speed Toyota Kit - H55F - w/Shifter & Gasket Kit
- Fits FJ60 & HJ60 (diesel) 8/'80 to 4/'85
- Kit Includes following Toyota Parts
- Gear Shift Lever and Knob
- Oil Cup
- Transmission Gasket
- Output Shaft Seal
- Transfer case Housing Gasket
- Tap and Fluid Plug (7/16 thread size 1/4 x 18)
See Below: H55F Adapter Bolts for early model FJ/HJ60 years - 8/'80 to 4/'85
Note: System will add $34.71 to base price for 8/'80 to 4/'85adapter Bolts.
- Bolt Kit for 8/'80 to 4/'85 includes:
- 7 bolts longer than stock bolts to mate transfer case to 5-speed.
- You'll need to modify your drive shafts on 8/'80 to 4/'85
- Front drive shaft needs to be lengthened.
- Rear drive shaft needs to be shortened.
- CCOT recommends the H55F transmission be installed by a Toyota Certified Mechanic
- Bolt kit not sold separately.
- Thread starter
- #59
Looks like most of it. You'll need the transfer case linkage and shifter from a late model 60 (post Aug 85), and the pivot shaft from the H42.
John Staton
SILVER Star
Ok, sorry to ask such basic questions, but just doing my homework before I pull the trigger so we dont have any surprises.
1. transfer case linkage- Looks like you have a pic of this in your thread. Is it two parts or just the first one? Any idea where I could source it?
2. Shifter- This H55 comes with a shifter, are you saying I will need a different shifter for my transfer case? Is this the part of the thread where you actually modified your shifter vs purchasing a different one??
3. Pivot shaft from the H42- this would be a part that I would have when I pull the old one right?
4. My existing transfer case works great...shifts into 4H and 4L easily and I think it was actually rebuilt when the engine was rebuilt about 1000 miles ago before I bought it. I should be able to bolt it right up to the H55...correct?