- Thread starter
- #21
Good call, didn't know there was an issue. t's too late for me though. It's getting installed tonight or tomorrow. The 2wd/4wd is easy to get to later.
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CaptClose
SILVER Star
Very nice writeup you've got started here. Thanks. I'm looking forward to reading the rest. Great work!
I thought I was looking at my pictures for a second. Same color 60, same transmission jack. Nice work. I have an H55 in my 1984. 5th sure helps on the freeway.
One thing I was concerned with was using the early cross-member. It still works just fine. Haven't droop tested the front driveshaft but I haven't had any issues.
One thing I was concerned with was using the early cross-member. It still works just fine. Haven't droop tested the front driveshaft but I haven't had any issues.
- Thread starter
- #24
Good to hear, I have had concerns about the support Loop clearing the front driveshaft. That's a nice looking rig you have there! Great color!
DickM
SILVER Star
No problem using the early cross member, and I have wheeled my '84 a quite a bit. I did use later driveshafts in lieu of modifying the early ones.
If you go that route, you end up with the double cardan front driveshaft to re-purpose/sell.
Great write up!
- Thread starter
- #26
I decided to just have mine done. They are going to balance the rear while doing it. Price quoted was around $200 to do front and rear.
- Thread starter
- #27
This is the best cleaning/protectant product I have found for rubber boots, weatherstripping, interior, and all things under the hood. Leaves a non greasy dull shine and makes plastic and rubber a lot healthier.
- Thread starter
- #28
An interesting side note on clutch adjustment. After adjusting per FSM I thought I was good to go. After driving a hundred miles or so I noticed a high pitched squeel when idling in neutral with the clutch out. Thought it was a belt but when I got out to investigate realized it was coming from the transmission area. Pushed the clutch in...stopped, let clutch out...fine for a while then back. Barely put any pressure on clutch...stopped. Headed for home and had a clicking/clanking around 1200 RPMs. A thousand bad thoughts running through my mind limping home. Mud search time. Turns out pre mid 85? The throwout bearing should not touch pressure plate when clutch is out. Makes sense out of the adjustable slave and return spring design. Pulled the flywheel cover and adjusted slave and pedal height a few times until TO bearing was away from the pressure plate and clutch play was right.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Appreciate the follow-up, keep the updates coming. I'm installing an H55f in my '86 FJ60, behind the 3FE from my '89 FJ62, so my install should be a little easier. Can't wait to finish my build and start enjoying the fruits of my labor.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Awesome post. Thanks. So a quick summary and a few questions that I have:
1. No need to source a later year bell housing and cross member, correct?
2. Can the existing flywheel be used? Does it have to be drilled/modified?
3. Sourcing a later year shift plate would eliminate the need to modify the new gear shift stick?
1. No need to source a later year bell housing and cross member, correct?
2. Can the existing flywheel be used? Does it have to be drilled/modified?
3. Sourcing a later year shift plate would eliminate the need to modify the new gear shift stick?
- Thread starter
- #31
1, correct just need to relieve the bellhousing at two places.
2, I used the same flywheel, no mods
3, The TC shifter was pretty much hitting the edge of the floorboard hole (not sure what to call it..transmission tunnel?) in 4lo, I'm not sure if a later year shifter is shaped differently? Just using a different cover won't do it I don't think...not without cutting some of the hump body out anyways.
2, I used the same flywheel, no mods
3, The TC shifter was pretty much hitting the edge of the floorboard hole (not sure what to call it..transmission tunnel?) in 4lo, I'm not sure if a later year shifter is shaped differently? Just using a different cover won't do it I don't think...not without cutting some of the hump body out anyways.
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CaptClose
SILVER Star
Great... thanks for the clarification @mwebfj60 this will really help me when I do mine. I do believe that the transmission floor plate cover in later models is different and using one would Eliminate the need to modify the gear stick. @CenTXFJ60 has some examples of both varieties and hopefully he can add some pictures later to verify.
I have a few more questions and some additional photo requests when you get a chance.
First... I'm still debating sourcing later drive shafts, or modifying my existing ones like you did. If you had to do it over again, would you make the same choice, and why?
Next... the cross member support. I'm wondering if it provides enough clearance for the front drive shaft. I see that you had to eliminate the loop/shield or whatever that is? Can you post some more detailed pics of this area so I can take a look at what you did there? Sorry, I'm a visual person, it helps me to see haha. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be picking your brain later on.
I have a few more questions and some additional photo requests when you get a chance.
First... I'm still debating sourcing later drive shafts, or modifying my existing ones like you did. If you had to do it over again, would you make the same choice, and why?
Next... the cross member support. I'm wondering if it provides enough clearance for the front drive shaft. I see that you had to eliminate the loop/shield or whatever that is? Can you post some more detailed pics of this area so I can take a look at what you did there? Sorry, I'm a visual person, it helps me to see haha. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be picking your brain later on.
- Thread starter
- #33
Sure thing. Wish I was more help with later model parts, in the last 7 years, in all my travels, I have seen two other 60s up close. One was another 83 and the other was an 87. I was like a mad stalker with the 87...followed this guy all around town waiting for him to stop...waved a couple of times to his rear view at stoplights...he finally stopped at a fast food joint and I parked next to him. Turns out he was just a driver and didn't seem too keen on my questions or had any knowledge of the vehicle other than year and such. Maybe he just thought I was a stage 5 clinger! even though I was in my 60...Bummer to say the least. I'm going to hit up one of the clubs out here soon.
The drive shafts were a drawn out decision for me, it boiled down to a couple of things...the PO had installed a 3" Pinnacle engineering lift so I wasn't certain the later model shafts would be the right length and the shop was going to balance the rear in the process. I read way too many posts on proper driveshaft length and when all the info said to measure within an 1/8" I figured my best bet was to have mine done. The $200 seemed like a fair price for peace of mind knowing it was right. I haven't noticed any vibrations at all.
I will take some pics around the area tonight.
The drive shafts were a drawn out decision for me, it boiled down to a couple of things...the PO had installed a 3" Pinnacle engineering lift so I wasn't certain the later model shafts would be the right length and the shop was going to balance the rear in the process. I read way too many posts on proper driveshaft length and when all the info said to measure within an 1/8" I figured my best bet was to have mine done. The $200 seemed like a fair price for peace of mind knowing it was right. I haven't noticed any vibrations at all.
I will take some pics around the area tonight.
I used a transfer case shift lever from a late FJ60. No fitment issues with my floor. You just need both parts of the transfer case shifter. The 2WD/4WD lever. And then the piece that attaches to the end of the former to shift between Hi and Lo. No issues. Used the same knob and the same boot.
HTH
HTH
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
If you have the later floor sheet metal, the stock transfercase shifter will work without mods.
If you're spring under, the stock cross member works fine. THe sheet metal safety loop has to be removed.
If you want to use later driveshafts, you will need to source and use new transfercase output flanges. I think Cruiseroutfitters sells new ones but not sure. I found it easier to use my existing driveshafts and have them re-sized.
Regarding the bellhousing-use your existing one. If you use the later one, it tilts the transmission over 9 degrees and then the rear crossmember isn't quite happy. You do have to SLIGHTLY mod the bellhousing and clearance the ear area to fit the transmission input bearing cover. This is a 30 second mod, literally. Poser put up pics of where to grind, years ago. But it's obvious if you do a trial fit before install.
If you're spring under, the stock cross member works fine. THe sheet metal safety loop has to be removed.
If you want to use later driveshafts, you will need to source and use new transfercase output flanges. I think Cruiseroutfitters sells new ones but not sure. I found it easier to use my existing driveshafts and have them re-sized.
Regarding the bellhousing-use your existing one. If you use the later one, it tilts the transmission over 9 degrees and then the rear crossmember isn't quite happy. You do have to SLIGHTLY mod the bellhousing and clearance the ear area to fit the transmission input bearing cover. This is a 30 second mod, literally. Poser put up pics of where to grind, years ago. But it's obvious if you do a trial fit before install.
- Thread starter
- #36
You don't have a side by side pic of the two transfer case shift levers by any chance do you?
@CaptClose
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- Thread starter
- #37
Is the hole in the later model floor sheet metal set back further than Pre 85? So the whole opening is shifted to the rear of the vehicle? And are the covers the same throughout the 60 series? Seems the contours would be different. Thanks for the info Drew.
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- #39
Mileage 299,937 about 275 miles, drained transmission gear oil. A fair amount of tiny sparkles and the biggest piece is shown next to the penny that the magnet picked up.
- Thread starter
- #40
