Pre-03 nav delete how-to (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter primeral
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They were! Thank you for doing that! I found myself pausing, especially when you were showing the wiring around the amp/nav ECU area, just to see what was going on. Super helpful.
Does anyone need this? Comes with pigtails. I haven't decided to include the detachable air vents yet. I may need them
SOLD!!!
SOLD!!!
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Dude, total accident....$50 shipped. J/k
Hey guys, currently going through this and am lost trying to "grab the front speaker." I've got the metra amp bypass harness with the wiring run up behind the head unit. I'm getting no sound from the driver front speaker. I have 2 jumper wires on the nav plug, jumping the pink and purple wires, but still no sound. Any advise?
Check your ground. The radio HU is grounded through the factory amp. If you messed with the wires you'll need to make sure that your ground wire is still grounded.
Oh jeez, had the plug on top of the speaker in the door unplugged. Working now. Thanks!
Thought I'd post an additional picture of "grabbing the driver speaker." The description and the 1 picture on this thread were still confusing. It could have been the 11 solid hours I put into the swap. Just another positive confirmation that the metra 70-8116 amp bypass can be used. Then, on the nav plug(pictured), find the double pink and double purple wires. Snip them and tie them together. That should restore sound to the driver side speaker.
I'm still working through a couple other items, so I'll post up later with my conversion. Side note, I stuck in a Sony AX1000 only to find out that Sony played some shenanigans with marketing and it didn't support Android Auto. Already have an AX100 on order and will be selling the AX1000.
One thing I noticed with the new hvac control buttons, is that they take a while to engage. I initially thought most of the conversion hadn't worked, but then I held down some buttons for 3-5 seconds, then they would engage or light up. I thought it was a programming thing, but that's how they behave all the time. They have to be held down for a couple seconds. Anyone else finding that also?
I'm still working through a couple other items, so I'll post up later with my conversion. Side note, I stuck in a Sony AX1000 only to find out that Sony played some shenanigans with marketing and it didn't support Android Auto. Already have an AX100 on order and will be selling the AX1000.
One thing I noticed with the new hvac control buttons, is that they take a while to engage. I initially thought most of the conversion hadn't worked, but then I held down some buttons for 3-5 seconds, then they would engage or light up. I thought it was a programming thing, but that's how they behave all the time. They have to be held down for a couple seconds. Anyone else finding that also?
Is this on the digital controller? My 3 knob responds quickly
So I know there is the rear heater versus rear AC control panel. What gets me is when you pop out the covers on the control panel there are buttons behind them. If you remove the blank cover on the rear heat control panel there is a button there for rear AC. In the 80 series the auto versus manual control unit had a switch in the back for auto or manual. So it seemed like they designed 1 control circuit / AC amplifier and just put a different face on it with the auto button. I can't imagine this would be much different considering the buttons there and everything. unfortunately I ended up with the wrong control unit, I have a 100 series with rear AC and a control panel that has the rear heat button. I forgot to put in 1 ground wire because the harness I have is not meant for a car that had rear AC there were a couple of wires missing and I was able to get those wires in there except for this ground and the rear AC button would light up. But the rear AC would not turn on. When I added that ground wire the rear AC button no longer lights up. I think it was connector a 22 or 25 I can't remember I'd have to look at the paperwork again. So I want to know is it at all possible that the control units are internally the same and some combination of wiring will make it run the rear AC properly. Maybe it is programed differently. But I can't find any discretion in the wiring diagrams. I have found the steaks and Toyota diagrams before I imagine this may not be any different there's a lot going on with the diagram showing rear AC rear heat nav vs non nav excetera excetera.
The EWD I have shows "REAR HEATER (w/o REAR AIR CONDITIONING). I would guess the switches are different
Yeah, but internally how different are they really. If I put in A25 ground, where the rear ac button is, it will light up when pressed, this is on the rear heat only ac amp. If I put in A25 it will not light up. Either way the rear ac wont come on. Its just hard to believe they would design them different aside from the button on the front and whatnot. I bet its possible without info beyond what the FSM and ESM can give us its a lost cause.
There is a mistake in the ESM too, on the page where it shows the rear ac and the 'center ECU' the ground into VER4 shows A9, which cant be right because that should be the Y/B which is coolant temp from the engine ECU. Makes me wonder what the deal is with the VER wiring. If its got nav or not the connections are different. Im gonna bet its for version, meaning how the truck is optioned. The non nav ac amp doesnt have a ground in the E pin either. But i dunno if the non nav ecu even has the E pin cause I cant find a full pinout with descriptions for every pin in the module. Oh well, gonna order the correct panel and move on i guess.
The mistakes in the ESM though are annoying. Ive found em in the wiring diagrams for the 62 series also with the 4wd control solonoids. There flat out a wire missing in the diagram. And in the 60 series manual, the ROOM fuse is labeled the DOOM fuse, which I kinda like better haha.
There is a mistake in the ESM too, on the page where it shows the rear ac and the 'center ECU' the ground into VER4 shows A9, which cant be right because that should be the Y/B which is coolant temp from the engine ECU. Makes me wonder what the deal is with the VER wiring. If its got nav or not the connections are different. Im gonna bet its for version, meaning how the truck is optioned. The non nav ac amp doesnt have a ground in the E pin either. But i dunno if the non nav ecu even has the E pin cause I cant find a full pinout with descriptions for every pin in the module. Oh well, gonna order the correct panel and move on i guess.
The mistakes in the ESM though are annoying. Ive found em in the wiring diagrams for the 62 series also with the 4wd control solonoids. There flat out a wire missing in the diagram. And in the 60 series manual, the ROOM fuse is labeled the DOOM fuse, which I kinda like better haha.
I actually found a thread on another forum for the LX vehicles where a guy just unbolted one bomb and swapped it with the other one. That would solve my issue. For the controls, I'll get that figured out through one of those programmable devices that Crutchfield sells, since I've done the NAV delete, I should be able to control my Pioneer head unit with these buttons. Fingers crossed, will report back if I'm successful.
Let us know how this works out!
Nevermind, looks like I'll need a new clockspring. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the clockspring from a 99-02 and/or from a 03-07 ? Both would be fabulous. Looks like this will need some cutting and soldiering to pull off.
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Tex, you wouldn't happen to have wiring diagrams for the wiring going into and coming out of the clockspring would you? I'm trying to go from an 02 to and 03 plus steering wheel with stereo controls.
I have an EWD for a 2006 and a 2002. Will that help?
