Pre-03 nav delete how-to (1 Viewer)

[Nobax]

You know, I’d throw those on eBay with a buy it now price set high. I think I got $125 +s/h for the bezel, and $400 +s/h for the nav unit. It took a while, but only a few weeks really. Sell the Nav ECU under the passenger seat, sell the amp, sell it all

Thanks chogunn good idea.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

So my project is complete - successful - but a little more involved. There are a lot of great write ups here so I will try to just add to and not repeat anything. First of all I want to underscore what was written in 360: the Mark Levinson factory amp was unable to respond to my new head unit, and required a significant departure of plan for me, but the outcome was better than I had planned!
Here’s the money shot:
View attachment 1991580

My parts list included:
Climate controls from a wrecked land cruiser
Sony XAV-X1000 head unit
Rockford Fosgate R14X2 - 4” speakers for the rear doors
Rockford Fosgate R165-S - component speakers for the front doors
Sound Ordnance B-8PTD slim powered sub (this thing is awesome and I’m so glad I got it!)
4” and 6.5” speaker baffles slim-line depth - cheap, although I’m not sure they do much, they were easy to add between the new speakers and the plastic speaker baskets in the doors.
Crutchfield CK10 - amp/sub install kit
EFX 9-wire ultra flex speaker wire 12’
Metra 70-8113
The antenna splitter mentioned earlier, antenna adapter, solder seal connectors (lots of the red ones!), one of those pencil torches and fuel
I ordered 560-DNW1DW10 from Mouser Electronics - tiny bulbs for the climate control - I got 10 because one of them was out, and they ended up having that orange cast so I am glad that I replaced them all - they were $.56 ea, the shipping was pricier.
Here’s some random pics that I thought might be helpful:

View attachment 1991581
The foam speaker baffle installed behind the speaker. Creates an air tight space? Is that important?

View attachment 1991583
I didn’t notice until later that these four wires, which needed to be switched around following the wiring pin out map, were wrapped together... anyways I went to the hassle of stripping that white and green wrap around the four wires, and basically could’ve left it, so that was 2-3m of time wasted.

View attachment 1991584
There’s some vague language in here about “grabbing the left door speaker” from the Nav DVD drive plug - that’s true! Basically the factory Mark Levinson w/Nav setup sends sound: head unit -> amp -> speakers EXCEPT the front door sound goes from amp -> Nav DVD -> Speaker; so you are looking for two pairs of pink & purple wires by my finger in one of the Nav DVD drive plugs, and you’ve gotta pull those through the bundle to find the 2’ Section that goes amp -> Nav, and the wires that go from Nav -> speakers. This whole thing is assuming you want to use the existing speaker wires in your new setup. As you can see here, I connected the 9wire bundle from my head unit to the existing speaker wires. That worked super well. No reason to run new wires. I used solder seal connectors here after confirming everything was working properly.
View attachment 1991585
This thing is great! I hate how it sits in there, but there isn’t a lot of options unless I move it to the back or I start trimming carpet around. I ran the power through the driver’s firewall, behind the pedals under the carpet, and up under the gear shift trim, then under the carpet there where the awful stain is on the carpet. It’s a little janky of a setup but the wire shouldn’t shift or rub, and isn’t being pinched.

So, that’s the tale of my Nav Delete! Removed the factory amp, new speakers, etc... the sound is amazing, and I love the conversion to manual climate knobs. So much easier. I do not really know what I am doing with this, and I made it work, so anybody can do this.

Also, as previously mentioned, through the classifieds here and eBay I have sold everything but the amp and speakers so far, and I’m basically back to $0. Which is good, because it means my truck is very close to receiving a TJM T17!

I like your set up. Have you been happy with the quality of the speakers and sub so far?
Have you set up a back up camera? If so, do you just connect the power to the camera from the reserve light power and then connect the camera to the video input on the stereo?

 

[chogunn]

I like your set up. Have you been happy with the quality of the speakers and sub so far?
Have you set up a back up camera? If so, do you just connect the power to the camera from the reserve light power and then connect the camera to the video input on the stereo?

Thanks man! I'm very happy. Honestly I listen to audiobooks mostly or sports radio, but when I or the kids put music in its great. Best car stereo I've ever had - I'm easy to please.
I did install a backup camera, one of those that bolts into the license plate brackets. Put a hole in the tailgate right over it and made a gasket out of that Sugro moldable glue. Yes - I pulled power off the backup light and ran the RCA up to the front. I kinda wished I did it so I could trigger the backup anytime I want to (I added one of those mods to the head unit that disables the park sensor) instead of just in reverse, but its good enough for now.
FYI that Park override sensor is amazing, the updates to CarPlay allow for typing input which is nice when driving. If you like Apple CarPlay, the new version of it is much much better.
The only thing left to "fix" is to do something with the bottom row of control buttons - mirror defrost, rear defrost, and rear heat. The buttons aren't connecting easily inside, I need to add a little spacer or something inside. I must have goofed them a bit when I dismantled the controls to clean and change the lights out. I am going to wait until a light burns out.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

Guys, I am starting to order parts this week and I guess I am a little confused on a few things. I have an '02 LX with ML. I haven't decided whether I am just swapping the speakers and keeping the factory amp or purchasing a slim amp to replace factory. So, the metra harness is confusing me. Here is my list I have gathered.
LC manual dial bezel w/ pigtails (I have)
HU- Android Auto (haven't decided yet)
Front speakers -6.5 components (haven't decided)
Rear speakers haven't decided
Amp install kit -if I choose after market amp route
Antenna splitter
Antenna adapter
Solder seal connectors
I have a heat gun, so will buy the deflector piece
Mount bracket 86211-60071
Mount bracket 86212-60071
Metra harness 70-8113??? (Use if I keep factory amp?)
Metra harness 70-8116??? (Use if I replace amp?)
Metra 72-8104?
Metra 82-8148?
APPS2Car parking brake bypass
Rearview camera
DKMUS double din dash trim kit

That is all that I have. Anything I am missing?
I want to stay cost effective, however, if retaining factory amp is not feasible or not enough power, I will go the replacement amp route.

 

[TXSunDevil]

If you go with the LC Bezel you shouldn't need a Double DIN trim kit.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

Sweet! Thx TXSunDevil

If you go with the LC Bezel you shouldn't need a Double DIN trim kit.

 

[baggar11]

Metra harness 70-8113??? (Use if I keep factory amp?)
Metra harness 70-8116??? (Use if I replace amp?)
Metra 72-8104?
Metra 82-8148?

I converted mine over a couple months ago. Same '02 LX w/ ML. I opted to remove the amp since I didn't have confidence in it's longevity. Your list is correct for part numbers in that regard. I didn't use any Metra adapters or harnesses for the speakers. Pioneer TS-G1620F and TS-G1020S speakers fit in the front and rear without any modifications. Since I'll never be returning to the ML system, I opted to solder the speaker wires.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

I converted mine over a couple months ago. Same '02 LX w/ ML. I opted to remove the amp since I didn't have confidence in it's longevity. Your list is correct for part numbers in that regard. I didn't use any Metra adapters or harnesses for the speakers. Pioneer TS-G1620F and TS-G1020S speakers fit in the front and rear without any modifications. Since I'll never be returning to the ML system, I opted to solder the speaker wires.

Ok, so if I am never going back to the ML, then just butt connect everything with the red solder connectors?
Pretty happy with your speakers? What amp did you go with?

 

[baggar11]

Yeah, I ended up using the same solder seal connectors for the speakers. Speakers sound great. The old ML speakers were blown, so that may not be saying much for the audiophile types. I haven't added an amp back into the equation yet. I plan to, just haven't had time lately.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

Ok guys, I have purchased most everything except the HU, amp and speakers. I have the ML nav and I may initially run speaker wire from HU to all new door speakers and integrate an amp later. Or, maybe add the amp at time if I have the funds.

My question is, which harness do I get?
Metra 70-8113 or 70-8116???

 

[Blake1]

The stock ml stuff is great .. I love the sound .
Just get a new foam kit .. refoam the speakers and sub.

now that I remember ... I did have my amp serviced years ago... some of them will fail... later ones better .

 

[chogunn]

I think I got 8113; I listed my parts above somewhere. You just need to run speaker wires to the amp area then clip the stock speaker wires out of their clips and connect. No need to run new to the doors. You can get a 9 or 11 wire snake bundle cheap off amazon or Crutchfield.

 

[baggar11]

Ok guys, I have purchased most everything except the HU, amp and speakers. I have the ML nav and I may initially run speaker wire from HU to all new door speakers and integrate an amp later. Or, maybe add the amp at time if I have the funds.

My question is, which harness do I get?
Metra 70-8113 or 70-8116???

Metra harness 70-8113 For use with factory amp
Metra harness 70-8116 For bypassing factory amp

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

I think I got 8113; I listed my parts above somewhere. You just need to run speaker wires to the amp area then clip the stock speaker wires out of their clips and connect. No need to run new to the doors. You can get a 9 or 11 wire snake bundle cheap off amazon or Crutchfield.

I suppose if I go ahead and get the amp, all I need to do is send RCA's and remote turn on for amp from HU to under passenger seat. Then, clip the speaker wire and connect to new amp, run a ground and some power to battery, and I'm done. Minus the sub I guess.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Yeah, but internally how different are they really. If I put in A25 ground, where the rear ac button is, it will light up when pressed, this is on the rear heat only ac amp. If I put in A25 it will not light up. Either way the rear ac wont come on. Its just hard to believe they would design them different aside from the button on the front and whatnot. I bet its possible without info beyond what the FSM and ESM can give us its a lost cause.

There is a mistake in the ESM too, on the page where it shows the rear ac and the 'center ECU' the ground into VER4 shows A9, which cant be right because that should be the Y/B which is coolant temp from the engine ECU. Makes me wonder what the deal is with the VER wiring. If its got nav or not the connections are different. Im gonna bet its for version, meaning how the truck is optioned. The non nav ac amp doesnt have a ground in the E pin either. But i dunno if the non nav ecu even has the E pin cause I cant find a full pinout with descriptions for every pin in the module. Oh well, gonna order the correct panel and move on i guess.

The mistakes in the ESM though are annoying. Ive found em in the wiring diagrams for the 62 series also with the 4wd control solonoids. There flat out a wire missing in the diagram. And in the 60 series manual, the ROOM fuse is labeled the DOOM fuse, which I kinda like better haha.

Have you been able to figure out how to use the rear heat button for rear ac?

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Starting some prep on the AC knob unit now, planning to make the swap tomorrow. Going from 2002 LX nav to LC knob controller.

Quick question though. Is @primeral 's pinout diagram for those starting out with an LX and @TXSunDevil 's pinout diagram for those starting out with an LC? Or is it more that @primeral 's diagram was for those switching to the LX digital AC and @TXSunDevil 's is for those switching to the LC knobs?

 

[TXSunDevil]

I dont think there is a difference between them. The controllers should be plug and play meaning if you have a 3 knob you unplug it and plug in a digital and it works exactly the same. There should not be many differences in two. There may be minor differences but they were mostly on grouping ground wires IIRC.

 

[jerryb]

Don't be afraid of the heat gun on your solder seals.
They come apart easier than your think. It should run easily and be really shiny as it flows.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Don't be afraid of the heat gun on your solder seals.
They come apart easier than your think. It should run easily and be really shiny as it flows.

Did you use the curved attachment, or just the regular nozzle on the heat gun? I was planning to just use a lighter, but I tried a practice one and it melted the plastic on the solder seal connectors. I have a hear gun, but not the curved nozzle that others have used.

 

[gregnash]

Did you use the curved attachment, or just the regular nozzle on the heat gun? I was planning to just use a lighter, but I tried a practice one and it melted the plastic on the solder seal connectors. I have a hear gun, but not the curved nozzle that others have used.

For solder seals and shrink tubing you should really never use a lighter or open flame. The release of the chemicals in most of the shrink tubing is pretty toxic if your not careful. I have made myself pretty sick doing that when I was younger because I would constantly swap speaker equipment. Go to HF and grab a cheap-o heat gun, with the 20% coupon that normally floats around you are looking at like maybe $15, worth the investment.