Can someone send me pics of their frame with this on it.How do you like it and how long does it protect?
Por-15
- Thread starter burnttoastburgos
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1973Guppie
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gee I guess i get to say it before everyone else, search, search, search, seriously though, lots of good threads on here about por, just my 2 cents, look also at a product called zerorust, I had very good luck with it, and a little less finicky than por, but some swear by por as well.
Noah
Noah
I'm going to POR my frame, hopefully in about a month. Before the POR I'm going to have it galvanized 
I used Magnetpaints Antique Chassis Black. Same as POR but less expensive. If you go to their website and ask for info, they will send you among other stuff a piece of bare metal with the stuff brushed on. Do your worst to it and see if it fits your application. Sure worked for me here in New England. I scored it with a razor blade and soaked it in something like a 50% salt water solution and left it in direct sunlight for a week or something to check for lifting/intrusion. No problems.
Definitely get the POR marine clean and metal prep though. That stuff is kickass.
Definitely get the POR marine clean and metal prep though. That stuff is kickass.
dgangle
total rice
I kinda like $8/qt Rustoleum myself.
Soul_Man said:I'm going to POR my frame, hopefully in about a month. Before the POR I'm going to have it galvanized
I think I remember reading on a POR bottle not to aply to galvanized metal,
but I could be mistaken. It probably won't affect it anyway, I had great results
using POR 15 but down in South Texas it takes it forever to dry.
Good luck
my64fj40
If it ever get's up to above zero here I will be power washing my frame and then wire wheel, then... POR 15 and I will be posting a pic, I wanted to have it done this weekend, but temps here have been -12 up to a balmy 3. Looking outside right now, it is 10, so I probably will give it a try today, powerwashing that is. If I do, then should have frame painted by Monday. I'll update my thread at that time.
i vote on rust bullet .. 100 bucks a gallon / 2 coats - bullet proof
bandy rooster said:
I like rust bullet, too. Prep is easier and it holds better than the POR that's coming off the springs on my husband's truck.
Rust bullet? Zero Rust???
Wow... I'll need to re-blast my por'ed frame and re-do it!
But seriously, my 15 job has held up quite well cept where a little brake fluid collected under a brake line junction.
Wow... I'll need to re-blast my por'ed frame and re-do it!
But seriously, my 15 job has held up quite well cept where a little brake fluid collected under a brake line junction.
trekker said:Rust bullet? Zero Rust???
Wow... I'll need to re-blast my por'ed frame and re-do it!
But seriously, my 15 job has held up quite well cept where a little brake fluid collected under a brake line junction.
Nothing wrong with POR until you try zero rust
look at my 0rust job
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=626387&postcount=29
also all the frame and suspension are zerorusted but black
my64fj40 said:
You can put it on galvanized provided you use the metal prep. They say that on the website, but it is kinda hard to find.
Been tempted to use Zero-Rust, but I already bought a bunch of POR-15. I've heard people on here as well as a car painting forum (www.paintucation.com) that ZR is better than POR...
I think they are all probably pretty good.
Here's my frame with 2 coats Por-15 and 2 coats Chassis Black.
Kevin
Kevin
Hey Poldo
What did you top coat the zero rust with? Did you use acrylic enamel or urethane? Your Yota looks sweet. I am just wondering about using urethane over zero rust.
Thanks Brad
What did you top coat the zero rust with? Did you use acrylic enamel or urethane? Your Yota looks sweet. I am just wondering about using urethane over zero rust.
Thanks Brad
I did POR 15 but would go a different rout next time. It is a very strong and hard finish but I could have had it powder coated for not too much more. There is a powder coat place here in Denver that would have sone it for 300. If you have it glvanized I would not do the Por15 you don't need to spend the effort with the protection you get from the galvanizing. I would have it powdercoated or use zero rust.
Greg
Greg
- Thread starter
- #17
fjoakley said:
Whats the difference in protection between the Zero and POR.or is it the price. I just want whatever offers the strongest protection.
i have used POR a number of times in different places on my '40. i am not impressed. if you dont follow the instructions exactly, i peels off. the topcoat didnt protect the POR on my brushgaurd or frame where it was exposed to the sun, and the POR i put on the inside has been chipping up.
all in all, it is better than just plain rattle can. but next time, i wont be using POR. i will probably give ZERO rust a try. when i do a frame-off, i will be powdercoating.
all in all, it is better than just plain rattle can. but next time, i wont be using POR. i will probably give ZERO rust a try. when i do a frame-off, i will be powdercoating.
llih said:
Krylon rattle can industrial enamel
yes you can top coat ZR, the only reason I painted over is that the ZR color did not match the original mustard yellow or I would have left it like that
the finish was beautiful kind of satin which I do like better than gloss.
I think urethane is fine over ZR I just love it I even did the floors with ZR and top coated with gator guard bed liner, it stuck to it like glue
ZR applies beautifully with a $10 paint gun but even brushed on it looks good
stumpy said:
Yes POR does dry like glass and it chips and lift from the metal , ZR is more elastic , flows better and it penetrates all the rust and I am surprised on how well it resist scratching, again is not hard like POR but it doesn't chip now
ZR with a chassis black would be great because ZR does fade a bit.
As for rust protecion I wil let you know next spring I am in NY so it's snow and salt all winter but so far so good
