Pickles SOA And other updates

[CruisinFJ60]

CNT isn't a option...'just do it cause it's just as hard to not do it Mmm.

Its not that hard to do anyhow.

 

[kling-on]

Its not that hard to do anyhow.

Ya I've done em... I just convinced myself I needed the piñon angle low to clear the oilpan ... Now I see it's too low ... So time to redo it again LOL

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Its no fun if it works perfect the first time. Lol

 

[kling-on]

Mmmm maybe ... I'm tired of redoin shiat I allready know the right way... But think I can short cut it LOL

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Amen to that brother!

My no more short cut list includes. 6 shooters, trunion bearings eliminated, 14B rear (possibly with leafs for now), stretch front to end of frame and shackle reversal. And I'm sure some other s***.

 

[dbleon]

Ya I've done em... I just convinced myself I needed the piñon angle low to clear the oilpan ... Now I see it's too low ... So time to redo it again LOL

Not to thread jack, but.....

Can you please elaborate this. I'm thinking of going soa with mt 5.3l swap, but unsure on clearance.

Another gentlman (kurtis) mentions that a DC driveshaft will not clear the tranny pan. So how do you CnT and not run into clearance issues?

Kling on, it would really be helpful if you could post pictures of the clearances and angles as it sits.

Please help me out, will fitting my new drivetrain within the next couple weeks.....

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Don't forget every engine swap is different. In Joel's case engine was set in just a terrible location all around.

 

[Kurtis]

To run a dc shaft regardless of c/t or not it requires decent mods to the trans and drive shaft. Your pinion angle is going to depend on motor placement and transmission/ adapter combo. My truck is SOA on stock springs/aals. Pinion angle is great with no cut and turn and I run 2-3 degrees of castor. If you are lifted another 3" you would want a cut and turn. Heres a pic of my pinion angle and the trans mods. My cruiser would have to flex another 7 inches to come close to binding the shaft. Like i've said before i've been up to 70 something in 4wd without vibes. Its hard to see but the protrusion in the pan is a solenoid, I dropped the pan and shaved it to get a safe amount of clearance. Above the driveshaft the top bolt also needs clearanced.

 

[dbleon]

Kurits,
Do you currently run a DC shaft?

Your pinion looks to be turned up a bit, how can you have the pinion like that and not decrease caster? Seems counter intuitive because stock is what, 0-1*???

I'm confused, seems that you've been reccomending to run a standard u-joint shaft on SOA without CnT....

I'm trying to work through a few issues/scenarios:

1) I do SOA without CnT and use a standard u-joint shaft. This requires that pinion flange and t case flange are close to paralell, right? So if you have to "turn" the axel when welding perches to achieve this, wouldn't caster be changed?

2) I point pinion at t-case, and do a CnT... this requires use of DC shaft and subsequently modifications to the transmission pan?

3) I set flanges paralell to run standard u-joint shaft, and then do a CnT to make small adjustment for caster 2-4*?

#3 seems to be best design approach. Dont have to worry about shaft hitting trans pan, and have correct caster.

Am i missing something here guys?

Kling0on, please chime in as Im sure youve gone though these scenarios as well.

Thanks

 

[kling-on]

my motor is a 1 -1 1/2 too low AND too far back ..... I run a Ujoint top and bottom to clear the tranny pan ... my biggest problem was I ASSUMED the 0* ruff stuff perches were the same as Stock IE 0* change .. they are just 0* amd my pinon dosnt point up at ALL so my caster is great like I did a CNT but my pinon binds up on flat ground ... SO for now I'm putting a 4 * shim in and removing one leaf so it'll lower the front down some so I can wheel it .... this "SHOULD" put me back to stock pinon and caster .... I'll build a new axle later .... I'll work on pic tomarrow

 

[dbleon]

my motor is a 1 -1 1/2 too low AND too far back ..... I run a Ujoint top and bottom to clear the tranny pan ... my biggest problem was I ASSUMED the 0* ruff stuff perches were the same as Stock IE 0* change .. they are just 0* amd my pinon dosnt point up at ALL so my caster is great like I did a CNT but my pinon binds up on flat ground ... SO for now I'm putting a 4 * shim in and removing one leaf so it'll lower the front down some so I can wheel it .... this "SHOULD" put me back to stock pinon and caster .... I'll build a new axle later .... I'll work on pic tomarrow

So at the stock pinion angle, it shouldnt bind right?

Whats the stock pinion, ~10* pointed up? Yours is at 0*... yah that makes more sense that it would bind.....

So if I weld perches in while keeping the stock pinion angle, it shouldnt bind, and be close enough to paralell to not have any issues with vibrations?

My main concern is caster... I dont want to die yet.

Would a small CnT to get ~4* caster be a bad thing in this configuration?

 

[kling-on]

So at the stock pinion angle, it shouldnt bind right?

Whats the stock pinion, ~10* pointed up? Yours is at 0*... yah that makes more sense that it would bind.....

So if I weld perches in while keeping the stock pinion angle, it shouldnt bind, and be close enough to paralell to not have any issues with vibrations?

My main concern is caster... I dont want to die yet.

Would a small CnT to get ~4* caster be a bad thing in this configuration?

it would only vibe in 4WD on the highway and well since I live in South Texas me needing 4WD on the highway probley wont happen ... a stock pinon angle and no CNT turn "can" be done .... but you'll get better everything if you just brake down and do it right the first time

 

[Kurtis]

Like I said I have about 2.5 degrees of castor. Yes I run a D/C shaft. If you look at the giant first picture that is what a D/C driveshaft looks like. My pinion is extremely close to its stock position if anything rotated down. As you can see from looking at my pinion c/t gains me almost nothing..

I would recommend running a u joint drive shaft if you don't plan on going fast on the highway.
I'm not opposed to c/t obviously but in my case there is no need.

the standard 60 driveshaft will vibe in spring over axle regardless of what you do short of rotating your pinion down which would cause you lots of problems.

I wanted to be able to haul ass in 4wd if I wanted to take it skiing. I routinly run 85mph down the highway and 55-60 through the desert in 4wd so I built it accordingly.

 

[kling-on]

Ya I used the front CV in he rear it worked great no vibes ... I may trim my pan and run a front cv when I redo the front

 

[kling-on]

killed a Krawler so I had to buy a new set of Procomp Muds

and I got some more bling ... A SR5 inclinometer

also got the bearings and seals on order to rebuild the FF


also got a 4 deg steel shim to help pinon angle till I get a new axle built

 

[CruisinFJ60]

How are you at over 1k FT elevation?? I am only at the 500 range up here.

Also what happens at 30*? That the fail or win point?

 

[kling-on]

This truck it's a fail ... Patches it's a win

 

[CruisinFJ60]

This truck it's a fail ... Patches it's a win

May have to get Chris to ride with me again next year and go for a "win" so I can make the calender now that I got half a page in trails.

 

[kling-on]

2nd trails pic for her too

 

[kling-on]

Just cked I'm at 809 ft so it looks close enough for me