Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal

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Went out for a run today, 162 miles round trip. Tires did well. Got her up to 80 mph on the freeway. Pulled a steep hill in 5th. Did a short hill climb in the sand (hooked the right rear bumper and tweaked it a bit).

10 ply tires at 40 psi makes for a rough ride at times.

At some point I lost my brake pressure. It still has brakes, but they go all the way to the floor. Not sure if I lost vacuum or what. Still have fluid. Looks like I'll need to go through the entire brake system, found this thread with some good info on brake pedal fade and diesel cruisers.

Other than the brakes, it performed well.

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Still fighting the brake issue. So far I've:
  • put new rear brake shoes on, turned the drums, and fixed the parking brake pulleys.
  • Bled the system
  • New master cylinder
  • Bled the system
  • Birfield seals, front wheel bearings, new rotors, new calipers & pads (nastiest birfield job I've done) , changed diff fluid front and rear as well.
  • Bled the system
Still have the same issue, brakes are there until I push on them hard and the pedal goes to the floor. I lose the front and only have rear brakes. I haven't messed with the proportioning valve but that is next on the list...either that or take it to a shop and have them power bleed the system.
 
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Here's a shot of the worst of the two front knuckle before I cleaned them up.
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And after several hours (over a few days) I initially ordered the wrong kit, and not the one with wheel bearings, so had to wait for the right kit and got bearings separately.
 
Here it is all cleaned up.

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Replaced front spring bushings as well.
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Need to to the rear as well but I'll save that for another day.
 
No, calipers are raw, unpainted.

The whole undercarriage was coated recently, p.o. (s) painted over red dirt and corrosion. It looks dirty as the last time it was out was on the dirt. I've been working on it since, so no car wash.

I broke down and took it to Big O. At a loss as to why the brakes wouldn't work. They suspected a blown master cylinder, which I replaced a month ago. They replaced it, did a power bleed and viola! I've got brakes again.

I'm going to take the 'old' master cylinder apart and see if one of the seals is damaged. I doubt I could return it. All the work I've done fighting the brakes has been necessary maintenance...but a bit frustrating too.
 
Owyhee Jackass said:
No, calipers are raw, unpainted.

The whole undercarriage was coated recently, p.o. (s) painted over red dirt and corrosion. It looks dirty as the last time it was out was on the dirt. I've been working on it since, so no car wash.

I broke down and took it to Big O. At a loss as to why the brakes wouldn't work. They suspected a blown master cylinder, which I replaced a month ago. They replaced it, did a power bleed and viola! I've got brakes again.

I'm going to take the 'old' master cylinder apart and see if one of the seals is damaged. I doubt I could return it. All the work I've done fighting the brakes has been necessary maintenance...but a bit frustrating too.
Click to expand...

Hello,

Thanks for the explanation.

Brake cylinders are an issue in old 70 Series Land Cruisers. It takes some patience to isolate the failing component and then fix it. Mine played tricks on me as well.








Juan
 
Took the 'new' AISIN master cylinder apart today, found the reason why I had no front brakes. Not sure where the broken chunk of metal ended up.
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Sending it back to the supplier. I have to pay shipping and and a 20% restocking fee...they offered to replace the part, but the shop already replaced it.

I'm not totally stoked about being out $300 (2 hours of shop time, plus a new master from NAPA, plus a power bleed) due to a defective part but I'm glad I have brakes and the supplier's 'fine print' clearly states their warranty and return policy...still sucks though. One reason I like to use local suppliers when I can.
 
Hi ,
Nice job . Im tidying up a RHD 1989 bj75 ute . Its got the 3bll aswell but im going too put a 15bf in it next year .
Am i correct in thinking the 3bll sump will fit ? and do you think the PS pump will be a problem with a RHD truck ?
Heres a link too what ive been fiddling with so far.

Landcruiser bj75
 
Thanks Rustic, not sure how that happened...maybe that bolt on the side got mine too.

Not sure on the oil pan mohawk. From digging around on the internet, there seems to be different variations of power steering set-ups, so the pump may or may not be an issue.
 
Had the parking brake hang up on me this past weekend. Need to get a new cable I'm afraid. Could be ice/snow related but I doubt it. I pulled the rear drums off to make sure the cable and pulley inside wasn't hung-up again and noticed a leaky wheel cylinder, so I replaed both wheel cylinders on the rear. The cable is now the only part of the system that hasn't been replaced.

Also put some LED reverse lights in as well as an LED for the rear fog light,
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not sure I like the blue lights for reverse. The fog light looks fine as it has a red lens,
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reverse looks a little too blue though.

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I had the same issue with the master piston and the side "bleeder" bolt that isn't a bleeder bolt. I swapped in the piston out of my old master using the seals from the new one but I also bought another master for "later"
 
I was wondering if that 'bleeder-bolt that isn't a bleeder' isn't some kind of a stop for the piston and if you pull it (to bench bleed), it allows the piston to slip past it (from the spring pressure), then you re-insert it and that portion of the piston is on the wrong side of it...then when you go to push on the pedal (and push on it hard, like I did, 'cause the pedal didn't feel right), the aluminum piston breaks. Just a theory, but that's the only scenario I can figure out and that's exactly what I did.

I also thought about robbing my old piston, but at that point, I'd already given up and had taken it to Big O.
 
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Yeah, that's pretty much what I did too. Lesson learned I guess
 
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