Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (3 Viewers)

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Good idea on the clock assembly.

I live w/in a mile of the Treefort festivities. I try to avoid the dirty hippies if I can, but if you drive a Troopy over, I'll make an exception.

P.S.
Not sure what your plan is for lodging, but this place is right next door to me and it's an easy bike ride to any of the venues from there. Historic house in beautiful downtown area. - VRBO
 
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You should try to find a factory clock assembly in lieu of wiring anything 12v straight back to the high side battery. It will kill that battery. If the head unit is keeping it's presets you've won the battle!

BTW, we should totally have an impromptu "Boise LHD Troopy Summit" next spring when I'm there for Treefort!
I'm up for that. You all could stay a day in McCall while your at it.
 
I think I've 'won the battle' with the stereo clock. If I switch the station (it always comes on to 97.9 KQFC, a country station) to 96.1, a station that streams song info along with it's signal, the clock synchs up and displays the correct time within a minute. It's the little things.
 
Finally built a rear swing-out receiver. I wanted to be able to open the rear doors with my bike on. Great Success!

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Bumper details. 3/16 plate and angle , side drilled to match factory mounts, back match drilled with captive nuts (booger welded nut as access is limited) added to inside of rear cross member.

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2x4x1/4 steel that I've had laying around forever thinking I'd build some sliders out of, finally cut it down and capped the ends for this project.

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Parts bought from Comp. 4x4:

Comp 4x4 bearing worked out well, weld-on mount. tapered roller bearings and seals, just like an axle.

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and Mcmaster-Carr: for the rubber bumper and cam-lock latch:

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Said parts in action:
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All-in about $150 and two days of fabrication time.
 
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Replaced a couple parts on the rear door. Mine weren't in horrible shape, but I figured I might as well do it while the parts are still available.

Metal on the new parts is silver zinc instead of yellow zinc.

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And the stopper, I should have ordered new hardware as well. Some of the bolts on this rig are pretty crusty.

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Bummed to discover my injection pump is leaking. The leak slows down at higher rpms, parked it for now while I try to find a rebuild kit and manual right now, not having much luck though.

 
If that is the side of the pump it looks like the ASCD assembly. If so, that can and should be deleted. Easily done, and a blanking plate immediately solves your leak. Common leak point. Rotary pumps only have a handful of seals that can fail and are all pretty easy to get to.
 
Yes, that is the side of the pump, hard to get a good photo of it.

Is there a source for said blanking plate?

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As I have told everyone who calls me about a 20+year old diesel Land Cruiser, budget for and plan on an IP rebuild.

My local rebuilder in ATL (they do all of the IPs for Delta Air Lines at ATL) said that these IPs are at the most 10-13 yr units.

After this point they need rebuilds. Same with the injectors.

These two component systems are the heart of any Toyota Diesel engines.

Just saying that most of the bvll**** that people complain about are mainly based on a misunderstanding of the life-limit of critical components in a Toyota diesel: IP and injectors.

Take care of these components and the remainder of your ownership won't be too bad.

After all, most everyone is basically buying a used car.

Regardless of how it was sold to you, it's a piece of s*** when you receive it.

And you have to do everything to get it to par.

And I have no bones in this game.

I'm just stating the technical obvious considering there are so many new folks who have no clue about not only Toyota diesels, but about mechanics in general.
 
Agreed that a full rebuild is always the best policy. Even if you get it serviced you should ditch the ASCD anyway.
The thermowax on the ASCD goes bad and the seal wears quickly with the vibration. The blanking plate can be had at any Bosch pump place.
The bolts need to be slightly shorter than the ones that hold the assembly on, otherwise it's a half banana job. There are some good threads on it in the 24V Diesel Tech forum.

Bosch #'s....

Plate #1461074312
O ring #2460233011
Hex bolts x2 #1463414344

There are corresponding Denso numbers for these but I can't seem to find them.
 
Thanks. I've already got it pulled. I looked at some of the threads in the diesel section. Couldn't find any with photos that were still good (red x's or bad links) though, so I was kind of winging it.

I need to get the plate (or make one) and get a couple plugs for the coolant lines and I'm in business.
 
Picked up an o-ring, plate and bolts from a local diesel shop. Took several calls before I found one, the guy that had it said it was a plate "off an old Denso" , o-ring and hardware were new. Hole-to-hole spacing was too far apart, so I had to drill a new hole, but it worked out.

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Joined the coolant lines with a barbed union. I should remove the lines all the way back to their source, but didn't want to mess with pulling the fittings out of the block at this point.

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Shop said no re-timing necessary, it will just have some white smoke until warmed up. Device changes the timing slightly until the coolant warms up.
 
As I have told everyone who calls me about a 20+year old diesel Land Cruiser, budget for and plan on an IP rebuild.

My local rebuilder in ATL (they do all of the IPs for Delta Air Lines at ATL) said that these IPs are at the most 10-13 yr units.

After this point they need rebuilds. Same with the injectors..


Onur - thanks for that info. Can you share the name of the rebuilder in ATL?

Also - does the 3B have ASCD? I can't find this info.
 

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