Build Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal
- Thread starter Owyhee Jackass
- Start date
Member Builds and Stories
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Truck looks good with the new tires - you working with the new crew building MTB trails at bogus?
- Thread starter
- #664
Thanks. I need to get a full size spare if I'm keep them, and probably drill the front axle perches to move the axle forward a bit.
No mtb trail work for me. I did clear Mahalo out a few weeks ago though, cut 16 trees out.
No mtb trail work for me. I did clear Mahalo out a few weeks ago though, cut 16 trees out.
For the past 8 years I've driven the insterstate back and forth from Caldwell to out by Micron delivering parts to the jobsites and am surprised I've never seen your Troopy on the road. That's very nice!
- Thread starter
- #668
Sitting in traffic yesterday and a couple kids next to me at stop light said "we really like your car" I said "thanks, it'd be nicer if it had AC" they asked me if it was my DD and how long I'd had it...I had to think a bit and told them maybe 7 years?
I came here to check and it's been 10 years! I've put 115,000 kms on it (~72,000 miles)
Time flies.
And completely un-related, but just to a add pic...this shop-cat at the hardware store was teasing my dog a few weeks back. My dog was about to lose his mind, but he stayed in the truck thankfully.
I came here to check and it's been 10 years! I've put 115,000 kms on it (~72,000 miles)
Time flies.
And completely un-related, but just to a add pic...this shop-cat at the hardware store was teasing my dog a few weeks back. My dog was about to lose his mind, but he stayed in the truck thankfully.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #669
Well the 35's were a short-lived experiment. They were just too much tire for the 14BT and stock gearing. Decided to go back to a stock size tire and found a set of 235/85/r16 Nokian nATs on Marketplace, new take-offs at a small tire shop, $500 installed, pretty good deal.
- Thread starter
- #670
I fried another battery post on our last camping trip. We were camped for 3-days, two nights and I went to start the truck to leave and heard the pfft and no-start. I popped the hood an saw the positive post clamp on the starter side had ridden up on the post so when I tried to start, there was some arcing and meltage. I wasn't able to get the split-clamp to seat on that post well enough to trust it for the 100-miles of dirt we had to drive to get back to civilization.
My wife suggested I swap the batteries, the clamps on the other battery are solid and clamped to the partially melted post fine. I did have to 'stretch' the cable connecting them in series. I cut the cable ties routing it under the air box and re-routed it over the air box which allowed the cable to reach the new configuration.
I ordered some solid clamps with multiple mounting bolts tapped directly into the clamp.
Guess I'll add checking clamp tightness to my maintenance and pre-trip checklist. I am a bit concerned with the new clamps as they're aluminum and the hardware is steel. I used some anti-seize on the bolts, so hopefully there won't be galvanic corrosion.
My wife suggested I swap the batteries, the clamps on the other battery are solid and clamped to the partially melted post fine. I did have to 'stretch' the cable connecting them in series. I cut the cable ties routing it under the air box and re-routed it over the air box which allowed the cable to reach the new configuration.
I ordered some solid clamps with multiple mounting bolts tapped directly into the clamp.
Guess I'll add checking clamp tightness to my maintenance and pre-trip checklist. I am a bit concerned with the new clamps as they're aluminum and the hardware is steel. I used some anti-seize on the bolts, so hopefully there won't be galvanic corrosion.
If those don't work out for you, I've had really good success with the milspec style connectors. They are lead and I've had them on my truck for 5 years with no issues. But, since you mentioned it, I should go check the clamp tightness on mine, it's been awhile.
I love the milspec ones (I have them too), but had to chuck in a 1/2” wrench into the glovebox to make sure I could quickly remove if need be. And the imperial spec just feels wrong 
- Thread starter
- #673
I've got the milspec clamps on the other posts, but couldn't find one with multiple mounts for all the junk attached to the main positive post. I thought about adding a busbar for all the 'extra' stuff coming off of it, but would need to find a clean spot to mount it and make a short jumper cable.
I know what you mean about the imperial stuff, I need a 3/8, half and 9/16 for these
13mm and 14mm are usually close enough for the 1/2 and 9/16, but it bugs me that I'll need three or four different size wrenches for my four posts now.
I know what you mean about the imperial stuff, I need a 3/8, half and 9/16 for these
13mm and 14mm are usually close enough for the 1/2 and 9/16, but it bugs me that I'll need three or four different size wrenches for my four posts now.
I am also here to recommend the milspec clamps. I've had mine on for about four years and they've been great.
- Thread starter
- #676
Decided to finally troubleshoot my fuel gauge intermittently working.
First-off, thanks @coldtaco for letting me know there's an access plate for the sending unit.
I was worried my plywood floor would prohibit access to the plate, but luckily it didn't. I pulled the plate and there's a piece of sheet metal blocking the sender, is that normal? Seems like its spot-welded to the floor, but may be but doesn't look right to me.
It's pinching the wire and there's also a hose running under it that's compressed a bit. I don't think the hose is stock either.
I crawled under to see if I could find the plug for the sender as the wiring wasn't moving from above due to that piece of sheet metal.
I found a suspicious looking taped up connector, not the first piece of suspicious wiring I've found on this truck.
I downloaded and printed off the pages of the FSM for troubleshooting a few days ago, I highlighted what I thought was most likely the problem then...
Un-taped the connector.
And as I suspected some P.O. funny business was the cause.
Now to decide if I should order a new sending unit (83320-69035 ~$70(+shipping and tariffs another $50)) anyway and find a doner receptacle plug for the new sender unit...seems unlikely that would be an easy find.
Anyone know what that chunk of sheet metal is for? For now I re-connected the wire into that terminal block and taped it back up.
First-off, thanks @coldtaco for letting me know there's an access plate for the sending unit.
I was worried my plywood floor would prohibit access to the plate, but luckily it didn't. I pulled the plate and there's a piece of sheet metal blocking the sender, is that normal? Seems like its spot-welded to the floor, but may be but doesn't look right to me.
It's pinching the wire and there's also a hose running under it that's compressed a bit. I don't think the hose is stock either.
I crawled under to see if I could find the plug for the sender as the wiring wasn't moving from above due to that piece of sheet metal.
I found a suspicious looking taped up connector, not the first piece of suspicious wiring I've found on this truck.
I downloaded and printed off the pages of the FSM for troubleshooting a few days ago, I highlighted what I thought was most likely the problem then...
Un-taped the connector.
And as I suspected some P.O. funny business was the cause.
Now to decide if I should order a new sending unit (83320-69035 ~$70(+shipping and tariffs another $50)) anyway and find a doner receptacle plug for the new sender unit...seems unlikely that would be an easy find.
Anyone know what that chunk of sheet metal is for? For now I re-connected the wire into that terminal block and taped it back up.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
I think I have a sender in my garage - let me look sometime this week. Brand new, but was for my FZJ75 - not sure if it would work for yours.
I have had good luck finding replacment electrical plugs at Eastern beaver.
If you get a new sender you can try to find its mate on that website.
If you get a new sender you can try to find its mate on that website.