Not another 1FZFE head gasket thread...

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For the trouble you've been through so far, I think it would have been easier to replace the head gasket with a Chevy V-8...

I hope things go smoother now that it is all apart!
 
For the trouble you've been through so far, I think it would have been easier to replace the head gasket with a Chevy V-8...

I hope things go smoother now that it is all apart!

Had I known that it was going to go this deep, I would have much more strongly considered swapping in the 3B turbo and H55F that's sitting on the floor 6 feet away from it.... (I was considering it, but THOUGHT this would be quicker.)
 
Well, it must be something north of the 50 hour mark at this point, but made huge progress today...

Crank bolt torqued back in, new screws in the oil pump cover to replace the few that were on the edge of "serviceable".

Checked the head and block for warpage with a machinists straight edge. Head is great, block is just at the limit between the cylinders but flat.

New gasket placed, and head lowered carefully and slowly back into place with the cherry picker. I totally reccomend using one for this.

Special service tool number 778 used here, razor blade in the hemostats to cut the twine holding the timing chain tight down inside the head. Worked perfectly. Tensioner back in place with new gasket.
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FIPG on the big pan. Tip#1) dry fit the pan to see what gets in the way, before smearing the FIPG all over the bottom of everything. In this case, we hit the oil lines on the way up in the dry fit, but not on the second fit with the wet red stuff in place. Don't forget the little square o-ring! Tip#2 - wrap a paper towel around the oil pickup screen and tape it in place, so when it bumps the steering bar, it doesn't filthify itself. (Just don't forget to take it off before installing the lower pan...)

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Yeah, I think I used the full tube up on this job. Tip#3, don't use quite as much on the other pan...
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Head on, torqued (scary process) cams back in, timing set, valve cover on, both pans on, lower intake on, engine mounts done up and torqued. Coolant pipe on with new o-rings and torqued
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Still a long way to go, but it's looking much better!
 
Much slower with only one set of hands working, but still made progress today...

Exhaust side is all done, AC compressor is on, upper half of the intake is done, throttle body is attached, alternator is now on, rad is in place (need to finish up hoses then put the fan back in)


I couldn't believe how rock hard the rubber on the injectors was, seriously ROCK hard. Wow. Nice fresh soft rubber now!
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Remembered the two little vacuum lines before I bolted the top half down.
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Nice soft new OEM vacuum line! Wow, what a difference!
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Still a few bits and pieces to go back together, but hopefully a few more hours and it should be ready to fire.

Anyone have a trick for getting oil to prime, or is it not really an issue? (Cams all have assembly lube on them)

How long should I run the oil before the first change?
 
Anyone have a trick for getting oil to prime, or is it not really an issue? (Cams all have assembly lube on them)

How long should I run the oil before the first change?

I'm sure you lubed your cyl walls with assembly lube or oil. If not put about 5 ml of oil in each cyl via the spark plug hole. then fill the engine with 7.8qts by pouring the oil over the cams and tappet lifters. Put the valve cover on, put the plugs back in, unhook the distributor and pull EFI fuse. crank for 10 seconds or so two times. Then plug in the EFI and distributor and let her rip.

I would get a magnetic drain plug for the pan. Replace the Oil after 500 miles, then +1000 miles then +3000 then +3000 switch to synthetic and start your 5,000 mile intervals.

On initial break in I used Rotella T5 15w40 with a bottle of zinc engine break in mixture from lucas. I used the T 5 up until I started my 5,000k intervals, now I use the synthetic T6 for its wear qualities and zinc package. Your engine needs a healthy zinc package since it uses a flat tappet cam / buckets.
 
@SmokingRocks - perfect - thanks!

Now here is one for you... I just did the first crank, EFI relay out and coil disconnected. Engine continued to crank until I REMOVED the key.... WTF?
 
huh thats odd. spray some silicone lube in your ignition cylinder then insert and remove the key 10 times. Then try to start again.
 
Well, it runs again!

Didn't sort out what's up with the ignition, but I did spray some lube in the ignition cylinder to see if that helps with time.

Took it for a quick preliminary drive and everything seemed fine. Got home (it was dark), backed up into my parking spot and had billowing clouds of white blowing in the headlight beams. Crap thinks I.... If this is coming from the tailpipe, I quit. Got out and took a walk around the truck - no white from the exhaust - all from the front.

Who can spot the problem? (It's fixed now!)

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Well done! Looks great and I'll bet it sounds great as well. That's got to feel good.
 

Hahaha, yep - you nailed it. Was lying in bed thinking, "need to replace that gasket on the heater line, it sure leaked a lot for a little ga.... Hey, did I remember to move that clamp on the T-stat housing hose? "

At least it was an easy fix, and for the record, today I changed that gasket as well.

Done about 35 miles so far, everything seems to be making the right noises and staying dry on the outside! Fingers crossed it stays that way!
 
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