Newbie with a Broken Crank pulley

[roadstr6]

Gents,

go new or go home.


I had a Harmonic balancer rebuilt by "the best guy" doing it. wobbles.

I'm ordering a new one.

yes, its expensive. but not nearly as expensive as rebuilding your engine after your HB wobbles your crank bearings to death....

A guy in our club got a used one from a reputable shop that frequents this site. The HB wobbled profusely and appeared to have been damaged when it was removed. Three distinctive bends or flat spots on the front pulley and the pulley and harmonic balancer did not sit flush against each other and apparent stress bends at the rivet locations. It appears that a three jaw puller was used. Don't pull these things off with a three jaw puller. Use this type of puller:

I got one for $15 at Northern Tool and it had an assortment of bolts of different lengths and threads to use to pull with. It worked great.

 

[cps432]

oh i have a way. read my post. you have 1 guy pin the flywheel with a crowbar, and then you handle the nut with a large breaker bar.

2 man job. not easy.

ive done it twice now...

Sounds like something that happens behind a bar after too many shots...

Gents,

go new or go home.


I had a Harmonic balancer rebuilt by "the best guy" doing it. wobbles.

I'm ordering a new one.

yes, its expensive. but not nearly as expensive as rebuilding your engine after your HB wobbles your crank bearings to death....

Agreed. I'm dealing with a wobble that I noticed immediately after flushing and changing all of my coolant hoses. I've replaced my coolant twice in the last 4 weeks already. Not looking forward to pulling the rad out. But also not looking forward to rebuilding a 2f... or am I???? This thread was helpful. Thanks guys!

 

[Spike Strip]

Removing the Rad on these is relatively easy, even easier once you mod the fan shroud.

Do the HB as soon as you can to prevent possible damage to the crank snout; that's when it becomes a PITA.

There are quality aftermarket HBs, but hard to argue with one that lasted 30+ years on a grunt motor.

 

[cps432]

Removing the Rad on these is relatively easy, even easier once you mod the fan shroud.

Do the HB as soon as you can to prevent possible damage to the crank snout; that's when it becomes a PITA.

There are quality aftermarket HBs, but hard to argue with one that lasted 30+ years on a grunt motor.

Yeah, I've decided to park her for a little while and take care of some serious stuff I've been putting off. Still not passing emissions. Leaf bushings are all but gone and I have a leaf hanger that's taken a hit and needs a new one welded in place. Probably will rebuild the t case and hopefully not have to mess with the tranny yet. I'm at 267,600 miles and I could squeeze some more life out of this engine and tranny before a swap or rebuild.

 

[lt1823]

Removing the Rad on these is relatively easy, even easier once you mod the fan shroud.

Do the HB as soon as you can to prevent possible damage to the crank snout; that's when it becomes a PITA.

There are quality aftermarket HBs, but hard to argue with one that lasted 30+ years on a grunt motor.

What are my options if the threads towards the end of the crank snout are stripped. Is there anyway to fix the threads?

Thanks!

 

[Spike Strip]

What are my options if the threads towards the end of the crank snout are stripped. Is there anyway to fix the threads?

Thanks!

Yes.

There are different kinds of thread restorers and thread files depending on how bad the damage is and how deep down the snout they go. If it's just a few turns of thread, a thread file might work, allowing you to get nut on.

We'd really have to see a pic to make a more informed guess.

 

[lt1823]

Yes.

There are different kinds of thread restorers and thread files depending on how bad the damage is and how deep down the snout they go. If it's just a few turns of thread, a thread file might work, allowing you to get nut on.

We'd really have to see a pic to make a more informed guess.

The crank nose threads are stripped, the threads on the inside of the 46mm nut are stripped, and my keyway is trashed

I bought a new key and harmonic balancer. My plan was to Loctite 660 the new key into the keyway and build up the left side of the keyway a bit where it has been worn down. Then install the new harmonic balancer (which also has a fresh, brand new keyway), buy a new 46 mm nut, use a die on the crank nose threads, put everything back together and then use Loctite red 271 on the crank nose/nut threads when I go to put the final nut on. What do you think?

Essentially, I do not want to go to the trouble of replacing the crankshaft because I will eventually be upgrading the engine to a V8 within the next year or two and just need this 2F to hold up and be reliable until then.

 

[Spike Strip]

I can't find her posts at the moment, but @NeverGiveUpYota did a pretty nifty fix on a similarly buggered crank snout - Maybe she can post her solution and some pix.

 

[lt1823]

I can't find her posts at the moment, but @NeverGiveUpYota did a pretty nifty fix on a similarly buggered crank snout - Maybe she can post her solution and some pix.

Okay great, thank you! I appreciate it

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I can't find her posts at the moment, but @NeverGiveUpYota did a pretty nifty fix on a similarly buggered crank snout - Maybe she can post her solution and some pix.

Nah, I appreciate the kudos but my attempts to bandaid were simply that. My fluxcore weld was holding but when the machine shop put a little force on the key it broke right out. Way back I was recommended to braze the key in... or possibly mig weld would be better. Don’t fluxcore it. It’s just not strong enough on the hardened snout. I was brand new to welding too.... now I have a mig and it’s worlds better.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Loctite 660 the new key into the keyway

I have a tube so don’t buy it if you haven’t, I’ll ship you mine.... but I don’t send it w/ high hopes. I personally don’t think it works.

 

[Spike Strip]

Ok, F - Thanks for posting.

@lt1823 - I don't think those threads are too much of a problem after being chased, and using a new/good crank nut, and normally I'd say you need a replacement crank, but you might be able to get by if you have someone who can tig-weld that key in and fix that issue, to ensure your new HB doesn't go flying off at highway speed. A pro welder might be best, here.

Most likely that damage happened because either the HB disintegrated at speed (the rubber center comes apart), or the crank nut became loose.

Either way, if you're able to get it back together, use a lot of red loctite on the nut, just in case...

Good luck!

 

[lt1823]

Ok, F - Thanks for posting.

@lt1823 - I don't think those threads are too much of a problem after being chased, and using a new/good crank nut, and normally I'd say you need a replacement crank, but you might be able to get by if you have someone who can tig-weld that key in and fix that issue, to ensure your new HB doesn't go flying off at highway speed. A pro welder might be best, here.

Most likely that damage happened because either the HB disintegrated at speed (the rubber center comes apart), or the crank nut became loose.

Either way, if you're able to get it back together, use a lot of red loctite on the nut, just in case...

Good luck!

Thank you for your help. My crank pulley nut is stripped as well and I cannot find a new (or used one in good shape) crank-pulley nut to replace the old one? Can I repair the threads of both my crank nose and crank-pulley nut, because right now the threads aren't even catching and you can spin it by hand.

 

[lt1823]

Nah, I appreciate the kudos but my attempts to bandaid were simply that. My fluxcore weld was holding but when the machine shop put a little force on the key it broke right out. Way back I was recommended to braze the key in... or possibly mig weld would be better. Don’t fluxcore it. It’s just not strong enough on the hardened snout. I was brand new to welding too.... now I have a mig and it’s worlds better.

View attachment 2455993

Thanks for that info! So you are suggesting that I just skip the Loctite 660 under the key and on the left of the keyway where its worn and just mig weld the key back into place and build up the worn side?

 

[lt1823]

Nah, I appreciate the kudos but my attempts to bandaid were simply that. My fluxcore weld was holding but when the machine shop put a little force on the key it broke right out. Way back I was recommended to braze the key in... or possibly mig weld would be better. Don’t fluxcore it. It’s just not strong enough on the hardened snout. I was brand new to welding too.... now I have a mig and it’s worlds better.

View attachment 2455993

And what should I do about these nasty threads on the crank nose? Should I use a thread file, or a die, or something else? Again I will be upgrading to a V8 within the next year or so, so I really don't want to replace the crank shaft. I just need it to be dependable for another year or two.

 

[lt1823]

Ok, F - Thanks for posting.

@lt1823 - I don't think those threads are too much of a problem after being chased, and using a new/good crank nut, and normally I'd say you need a replacement crank, but you might be able to get by if you have someone who can tig-weld that key in and fix that issue, to ensure your new HB doesn't go flying off at highway speed. A pro welder might be best, here.

Most likely that damage happened because either the HB disintegrated at speed (the rubber center comes apart), or the crank nut became loose.

Either way, if you're able to get it back together, use a lot of red loctite on the nut, just in case...

Good luck!

Do you know what size thread file I would need to fix the buggered up threads on the crank nose?

 

[Spike Strip]

Do you know what size thread file I would need to fix the buggered up threads on the crank nose?

If you post in the wanted section, I'm sure someone has a good crank nut they'd sell you. I also see Country Cruisers on ebay has them.

I don't know the crank thread size. Maybe post the question separately - someone has to know. However --- Thread files go by pitch so diameter won't matter. Watch a couple youtube videos on how to use a thread file, first.

 

[lt1823]

If you post in the wanted section, I'm sure someone has a good crank nut they'd sell you. I also see Country Cruisers on ebay has them.

I don't know the crank thread size. Maybe post the question separately - someone has to know. However --- Thread files go by pitch so diameter won't matter. Watch a couple youtube videos on how to use a thread file, first.

You are the man. Thanks for all your help! It think I might pick one of these ToolPro thread files up!

 

[Spike Strip]

I think those 'ToolPro' ones are an Australian brand. There are many USA style. Should be able to get a Metric one for under $15 to your door. Again, watch the vids for the proper technique. It takes a little finesse. Practice on some scrap threads, if you have them. An old trick if you don't have access to something to practice on is to go to a Junk Yard (if one is close to you) practice on their crap when no one is looking, then go home!

 

[lt1823]

I think those 'ToolPro' ones are an Australian brand. There are many USA style. Should be able to get a Metric one for under $15 to your door. Again, watch the vids for the proper technique. It takes a little finesse. Practice on some scrap threads, if you have them. An old trick if you don't have access to something to practice on is to go to a Junk Yard (if one is close to you) practice on their crap when no one is looking, then go home!

Haha okay, sounds like a plan! Is there a particular pitch range of these thread files I should be looking for?