Hey, I just bought a 1984 Fj60 that seemed to be well taken care of. On the drive home from buying it the first two pulleys on the crank pulley fell off. By the looks of it I'm thinking that I can replace the whole crank pulley on my own. Before I start I wanted to get some advice. So if you guys/gals know anything that could help please share! Also if anyone knows the cause and how to prevent it from happening again that would be great! Thanks!
Newbie with a Broken Crank pulley
- Thread starter PdxFJ60
- Start date
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Greetings,
You might want to check these two places out if you want to have your HB rebuilt. A new HB isn't available from Toyota any longer. Given enough time (32 years) and rust they can fall apart. Not really anything you can do to prevent it.
new home page H.B.
DamperDoctor
Also Autozone sells an aftermarket HB for your cruiser. I know nothing about any of these suggestions. I just mined them for you on Google.
You might want to check these two places out if you want to have your HB rebuilt. A new HB isn't available from Toyota any longer. Given enough time (32 years) and rust they can fall apart. Not really anything you can do to prevent it.
new home page H.B.
DamperDoctor
Also Autozone sells an aftermarket HB for your cruiser. I know nothing about any of these suggestions. I just mined them for you on Google.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks! I figured it was just a matter of age. Thanks for the resources!!
Was the crankshaft snout / key damaged?
had mine rebuilt by the guy in Oregon. HB is wobbling now. more to come on that.
Sent Dale mfg an email to see how he'll handle this.. quite frankly im pretty tired of dealing with pulling my radiator out, and trying to take the crank nut off. no, my rig is not capable bump starting it and breaking mine loose. i think tis likely the clutch that slips. have to have someone hold the flywheel with a crowbar and then use a massive breaker bar to do it manually. not easy.
- Thread starter
- #7
I'm not sure what the key is but if you're talking about the bolt for the pulley it's still looks good. The rivets that hold the pulley to the HB sheared off and left the pulley closet to the crank and the bolt.
- Thread starter
- #8
I fear this for mine! Let me know if you figure a way to loosen it.
oh i have a way. read my post. you have 1 guy pin the flywheel with a crowbar, and then you handle the nut with a large breaker bar.
2 man job. not easy.
ive done it twice now...
2 man job. not easy.
ive done it twice now...
- Thread starter
- #10
Just look up the woodruff key. Its still good.
^ yeah that might work, or it could just spin the crank... id also hate to think about what the repercussions would be if you stripped out your crank as well.
I bet my HF 1/2" impact would yank that out no problem. I have yet to see a crank bolt stand up to it.
Also have yet to see crank pulley threads strip.
Btw, who the s*** spends 450 dollars on a crank pulley!? That is a chunk of a repower right there...
Also have yet to see crank pulley threads strip.
Btw, who the s*** spends 450 dollars on a crank pulley!? That is a chunk of a repower right there...
I just went through this debacle myself. You can use a HB/crank pulley from a 3FE as well but the pulley diameter is smaller. You will need different belts. Here's one for $100: 3FE Harmonic Balancer/ Crankshaft Pulley
This is what my trashed HB/pulley looked like. I'm sure yours is probably very similar:
I did a DIY repair on mine because I am a cheap ass and $400+ for a pulley seems like highway robbery. I don't want to go on record as recommending this but here's what I did: Punched out the sheared rivets with a hammer and punch. Tapped the holes with a M10x1.5 tap. Bolted the pulley back on the HB with M10x1.5 grade 10.9 bolts and nuts. Tack welded the bolt heads and nuts to the HB and pulley to prevent them from ever backing off. Ran three 1.5" equally spaced beads of weld around the circumference of the pulley to make it one with the HB. It spins true and has been working great.
To remove the HB, you will need a breaker bar and a 46mm socket. There is a hole in the frame on the passenger side frame rail up front. Place the handle of the breaker bar into the frame hole and set the socket on the HB nut. Put the truck in neutral and bump the starter. Bolt will break free then a puller will be needed to remove the HB from the crank. To re-install I pulled my radiator (for more clearance and because I needed a new one anyway) and used an impact to spin the nut back on. I believe you could do it without pulling the rad by using long extensions through the hand crank hole in the front valence.
When I re-installed everything I made sure to leave the belts just snug enough but not too tight. I believe the PO had overtightened them and that may have been part of the reason for the pulley failure.
This is what my trashed HB/pulley looked like. I'm sure yours is probably very similar:
I did a DIY repair on mine because I am a cheap ass and $400+ for a pulley seems like highway robbery. I don't want to go on record as recommending this but here's what I did: Punched out the sheared rivets with a hammer and punch. Tapped the holes with a M10x1.5 tap. Bolted the pulley back on the HB with M10x1.5 grade 10.9 bolts and nuts. Tack welded the bolt heads and nuts to the HB and pulley to prevent them from ever backing off. Ran three 1.5" equally spaced beads of weld around the circumference of the pulley to make it one with the HB. It spins true and has been working great.
To remove the HB, you will need a breaker bar and a 46mm socket. There is a hole in the frame on the passenger side frame rail up front. Place the handle of the breaker bar into the frame hole and set the socket on the HB nut. Put the truck in neutral and bump the starter. Bolt will break free then a puller will be needed to remove the HB from the crank. To re-install I pulled my radiator (for more clearance and because I needed a new one anyway) and used an impact to spin the nut back on. I believe you could do it without pulling the rad by using long extensions through the hand crank hole in the front valence.
When I re-installed everything I made sure to leave the belts just snug enough but not too tight. I believe the PO had overtightened them and that may have been part of the reason for the pulley failure.
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this is normally the way to do it. however, sometimes (as in my case) the starter will not bump the nut loose.
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^^
Yep. That method didn't work for me either.
Yep. That method didn't work for me either.
- Thread starter
- #17
Mine looks exactly like that. I bought a used one from cruiserparts for $175 but its kinda rough looking. What did you torque the bolt down too when you installed the new one? The web says 150lbs
don't want it to wobble. i bought a used one once and i could'nt use it
Gents,
go new or go home.
I had a Harmonic balancer rebuilt by "the best guy" doing it. wobbles.
I'm ordering a new one.
yes, its expensive. but not nearly as expensive as rebuilding your engine after your HB wobbles your crank bearings to death....
go new or go home.
I had a Harmonic balancer rebuilt by "the best guy" doing it. wobbles.
I'm ordering a new one.
yes, its expensive. but not nearly as expensive as rebuilding your engine after your HB wobbles your crank bearings to death....
I used an air impact wrench with a dab of blue (medium strength) Loctite on the crank threads. It's not going anywhere.