New Voltage regulator, still gettin max 11v new alternator? (3 Viewers)

[calen]

Hi Everyone, did the regular searchin around, found the voltage regulator thread. couldnt find my answer and no one responded when I posted in that tthread so Ill try here.

82 hj47 troopy

previously had adjusted my "tab" in the VR with sucsess to acheive 14.2 at 2000rpm. over about a2 months it dipped back to hitting 12.9 max if I dont have wipers or heated seat or fan going. tried adjusting more, an now adjustments of the "tab" in the VR doesnt d oanything. the tab was bent waay out lool. so bought a brand new VR threw it in un adjiusted and had the same 11.9 max while driving. tried adjusting its "tab" and it also made no difference. Is this a sign of the alt going bad? I thought they just stopped working. this one is working just not very well.

any insight would be amazing.

thanks

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think they can under go a slow death also. There are slip ring contacts that can corrode, the carbon brush wears away, the springs get weak, diodes get weak ...

I'd try a new alternator - good to have a spare anyway IMHO. I'd also look at the wires very carefully. The crimped on terminals can rot from the inside underneath the insulation which might look in good shape but the wire underneath is gone. Check all the wires at the regulator and the alternator. I would also put a known good voltage meter on the battery to make sure your dash one is correct.

 

[45Dougal]

Could also be a battery load issue I guess - might be easier to try and switch the battery before pulling the alternator?

 

[calen]

@charliemeyer007 ok, awesome, Yeah, I wanted to get a high output alt, and the good one has an iinternal VR so Kinda annoying that I bought a new one and will likely not need it lol. Maybe Ill see if the alt rebuilder down the street can rebuild for cheap, anIll runn it and get the high out put later. hahaha.

 

[calen]

ok thanks,

Could also be a battery load issue I guess - might be easier to try and switch the battery before pulling the alternator?

I really hope not, as its running a brand new big ass Odyssey deep cycle battery. there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.

 

[45Dougal]

What battery voltage do you read before starting?

If you have 11.9V running then your battery is either flat or loaded up.

 

[peesalot]

does it die if you remove pos. batt while running ?

 

[CruisinGA]

if this is an original alternator I would check the brushes next. A replaceable wear part.

 

[calen]

What battery voltage do you read before starting?

If you have 11.9V running then your battery is either flat or loaded up.

I have a manual glow push start ignition set up by the PO, so the fuse box set up is a little diff. the key literally just is a switch to power the main fuse boxes. when I got it literally nothing had power unless the key is turned. no dome lights, horn, nothing. I added an auxiliary unswitched fuse box to run the dome lights, and other things you want when the car is off. the Turbo has an electric pump, so currently if the key is turned that pump is automatically on and the reading on my battery monitor will be lower then normal. So when I turn the car on its usually at like 11.4-11.5. Im gonna put it on the trickle charger tonight to get back up and Ill throw the meter on there and see where im at for charge. Im gonna guess with nothing on, it will read 12.7

 

[calen]

does it die if you remove pos. batt while running ?

hahaha pretty sure it wont as my modded ignition runs all the glow power through the wires on the ignition and the positive unsolders itself once and a while and Ill have to drive with no battery till I can solder it back on. But I will check tonight. Run the car and just pull the positive off? if it shuts off whats that mean? I kinda dont think itl shut off just cause without battery just means the edic wont cut the fuel no?

 

[Chungas Revenge]

1800 RPM, 11.67v off the alternator no lights. 10.2 with lights on same RPM. @ 1200ish RPM I Removed the POS (+) battery cable and the mule took a nose dive choked once and died....Old school test, but I'm pretty sure its my ALT.

View attachment 1411472

Your conclusion is correct if................ there is voltage on the F terminal on the alternator (from the VR).
If there is no voltage on the F terminal, the alternator acts as if the battery is full and there is no output.

So, no voltage on the F terminal = alternator doesn't charge. Engine dies when + battery is removed. Check out why there is no voltage from the VR to the F terminal on the alternator.
yes voltage on the F terminal on the alternator and the engine dies when + battery is removed = alternator is defective.

Rudi

 

[duncanrm]

@charliemeyer007 ok, awesome, Yeah, I wanted to get a high output alt, and the good one has an iinternal VR so Kinda annoying that I bought a new one and will likely not need it lol. Maybe Ill see if the alt rebuilder down the street can rebuild for cheap, anIll runn it and get the high out put later. hahaha.

If you're considering buying the 120Amp one that a few Australian retailers are selling (often referred to as the "Baxters" alternator) I would avoid it.. they are often failing within 6months. Its usually the regulator that fails, so if you're considering buying one, consider converting it to external for reliability.

 

[calen]

If you're considering buying the 120Amp one that a few Australian retailers are selling (often referred to as the "Baxters" alternator) I would avoid it.. they are often failing within 6months. Its usually the regulator that fails, so if you're considering buying one, consider converting it to external for reliability.

I think that is the one i was looking at. Ok, good to know. Is there a good High output one that you'd recomend that does not have an internal VR?

 

[duncanrm]

I think that is the one i was looking at. Ok, good to know. Is there a good High output one that you'd recomend that does not have an internal VR?

No none.. its nearly impossible buy an alternator for any of the 2H powered Landcruisers that is externally regulated.. let alone a high output one.

 

[calen]

No none.. its nearly impossible buy an alternator for any of the 2H powered Landcruisers that is externally regulated.. let alone a high output one.

does it die if you remove pos. batt while running ?d

does it die if you remove pos. batt while running ?

so pulled the positive off the batt when I got home and nothing. ran like normal. what does that tell me? Thinking replacing brushes is the next step? anyone know if its possible without pulling the alt? The diesel alt has the pump on it so it seems tougher. Also looks like a pain with the saginaw steering pump in place

 

[peesalot]

The alt is producing , not much else. Curious, do that again & volt check the alt output whilst batt disconnect ?

 

[45Dougal]

so pulled the positive off the batt when I got home and nothing. ran like normal. what does that tell me? Thinking replacing brushes is the next step? anyone know if its possible without pulling the alt? The diesel alt has the pump on it so it seems tougher. Also looks like a pain with the saginaw steering pump in place

This is more meaningful on a petrol truck, but seems like you have enough voltage from the alternator to keep the edic open.

Maybe I misunderstand, but if all your glow power goes through the ignition switch then it won't last long. Maybe it's already fried and you're experiencing a lot of resistance there which is causing your problem?

Normally the glow power would be wired directly from the battery, through a fuse, to a hefty relay, which is triggered by a Wilson switch button on the dash.

Is it only the Wilson switch driven by the ign, or the full glow power?

 

[calen]

This is more meaningful on a petrol truck, but seems like you have enough voltage from the alternator to keep the edic open.

Maybe I misunderstand, but if all your glow power goes through the ignition switch then it won't last long. Maybe it's already fried and you're experiencing a lot of resistance there which is causing your problem?

Normally the glow power would be wired directly from the battery, through a fuse, to a hefty relay, which is triggered by a Wilson switch button on the dash.

Is it only the Wilson switch driven by the ign, or the full glow power?

hmmm, i havent analyzed the set up heavily as its worked fine for the year ive been driving it. Ill take a look at whats going on exactly. right now if you take the shroud of the steering column, and look at the ignition. all the wires are removed and there is only a positive and negative soldered to it. so when the key is turned, it turns on everything. there is a button (wilson switch?) that is used to glow. so in the summer when its warmer, if i glow the plugs too long in the morning its possible that the positive wire unsolders itself. been lazy on fixing it with a mechanical connection. still just soldered.

@peesalot so this morning after the battery got a charge over night, it showed 12.3 and as I drove it to work I noticed the voltage was getting up into 16 territory so i threw on both heated seats, and fan on full to bring it down to 14. assuming this spike is from when I tried to adjust the VR "tab" the other day that did nothing at the time. so assuming i need to readjust it back down. this might be one big silly confusion as now im thinking everything is fine, but I didnt start off the new VR with a topped up battery? and it never achieved full charge? and just kinda struggled around 75% since its winter and the heated seats, fan, and wipers are going almost all the time? guess Ill see after readjusting the VR.

 

[45Dougal]

hmmm, i havent analyzed the set up heavily as its worked fine for the year ive been driving it. Ill take a look at whats going on exactly. right now if you take the shroud of the steering column, and look at the ignition. all the wires are removed and there is only a positive and negative soldered to it. so when the key is turned, it turns on everything. there is a button (wilson switch?) that is used to glow. so in the summer when its warmer, if i glow the plugs too long in the morning its possible that the positive wire unsolders itself. been lazy on fixing it with a mechanical connection. still just soldered.

@peesalot so this morning after the battery got a charge over night, it showed 12.3 and as I drove it to work I noticed the voltage was getting up into 16 territory so i threw on both heated seats, and fan on full to bring it down to 14. assuming this spike is from when I tried to adjust the VR "tab" the other day that did nothing at the time. so assuming i need to readjust it back down. this might be one big silly confusion as now im thinking everything is fine, but I didnt start off the new VR with a topped up battery? and it never achieved full charge? and just kinda struggled around 75% since its winter and the heated seats, fan, and wipers are going almost all the time? guess Ill see after readjusting the VR.

Sounds like you've found your fix which is great


If the Wilson switch solder joint is getting that hot, then it's probably not using a relay. The switch is usually just carries a small signal to trigger the relay- not the many amps needed to actually glow.

Sounds like you've got a few hours of electrics ahead of you

 

[calen]

Sounds like you've found your fix which is great


If the Wilson switch solder joint is getting that hot, then it's probably not using a relay. The switch is usually just carries a small signal to trigger the relay- not the many amps needed to actually glow.

Sounds like you've got a few hours of electrics ahead of you

ok, so possibly nothing wrong with VR or ALT, just needed to start with a fresh charge.

so I assume it would be a good Idea to add a relay to the glow system? for probably more reason then the melting solder im guessing. is it as simple as going through the system and adding a relay in the right spot? if there is a thread anyone knows of that details this, point me there

thanks!