New Guy, needing some help!

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Need clarification! "!!"


Will running the cruiser with the above listed problems hurt it??? Or can it be driven safely? ?
 
I drove my 80 around for 2 years only running on 4 cylinders most of the time and no kick down cable.

Pretty sure you will be fine for a while.

RHT prices are good considering you don't have to pay shipping. You just go pick it up. Anyone else and your paying shipping.
 
I agree with ^^^^^^^^ Mine was a '97 so I had to get mine swapped out. RHT is as good as getting it from anywhere else... That EGR stuff sucks, but mine was around the same $$ range. I'd bite the bullet if there is a chance you might have to get it inspected in the future for emissions. Here in NC if it is pre '96 we just have to do a safety inspection. Check MD and see what their inspection of pre OBD II cars consists of, it could be a safety only like NC.

Drive it, the emissions stuff won't hurt unless it dies going down the highway and you need to turn quickly or something like that. Hell, my 60 dies constantly...
 
Wasn't aware that was dans price too.

Do you guys think the prices are reasonable, or should I shop around?

shop around then talk to dohcdelsol about engine swap. He could do it in his sleep at his work in nov.
 
I'm not doing an engine swap!!

I just got back from RHT and guess I misunderstood somethings. First off there is no rust holes. Just the sign of it on the tube. Second he said that the main problem is carbon build up. Told me that it needs a good cleaning and should be able to be driven. I drove it at random speeds, and every time I stopped nothing happened. It actually drove way better than it has since I got it. I guess I'm going to slowly buy the parts and get it done later.

Speaking of doh I was going to get the front end done this winter maybe ill see of he can do this stuff as well.
 
Yea thats one of those "well maintained" entities that doesnt seem to happen on pansy mall cruisers. I had the oppertunity of getting a Virginia inspection yesterday right next to another 80. Bastard broke a lug...another problem tire shops always over tourque the lug nuts. arrr...anyway this " well maintained 80 next to me had leaky knuckles, worn out brakes. clean throttle body prob not. ...I asked the mechanic whom i knew ..the guy never used the magic dial~ lucky I got to assist removing the rotors . It paid off to have my manual in the back!! I didnt do mine ACC did. Now I know.
Anyway bla blah...
Hey also check that big rubber intake hose from the air can. I remember mine was cracked and caused sputtering some time ago. 100 dollar part but worth changing if its 17 years old
 
Bringing this back

Today I was supposed to be working a side job with SCDOT, anyways it was canceled due to weather so I had an unexpected free day! I decided to take a shot sea foaming the 80. Went to advanced auto and got 2 cans. It stalled at the stop sign on my street and double footed it giving gas and stopping at the same time. Pulled into advanced auto making a slow turn into a space and she died.

Got home one full can in the tank and one sucked into vacuum hose. It started to smoke just as the last bit got sucked up. Turned the 80 off and let it sit for 10 min or so. Started it up and holy hell!!!! Smoke everywhere, and to the point my wife told me to drive it just to get it away from the house. So 20 min drive later the smoke stopped and I can't make her stall. It's been running for 30 min with no stall and I'm about to drive it again. I can't believe it but I think seafoam has greatly improved my situation. Now I realize I will probably need to replace vsv, egr, modulator in the future but now I can hold off on the 1k estimate from RHT!!!!!
 
i've had good luck with seafoam.

Once at normal running temps/running engine spraying water mist down your intake will clean carbon deposits just as well.

But for varnish/gunk in your injectors sea foam works pretty good.
 
I'm seriously stunned. I just got back and it never stuttered or stalled. On startup at the grocery store it went to around 6k then to 5 and settled after a few seconds at 8k. That's was it, do you think I should do it again or is 1 can enought?
 
i would not run it again unless it has the symptoms again.
 
if she's running fine i'd leave her alone.

I've heard of people using sea foam then the o2 sensor (s) failing.

Running a can to about a 1/4 to half tank of gas wouldn't hurt.
 
I found a tread on 80 forums called "my seafoam experience" first post shows the vacuum line that needs to be pulled.
 
Well I'm back to start! Went to the gym and it started acting up again. I'm thinking my next step is replacing all the vacuum lines. Guess I'll be researching sizes tonight. I assume Toyota spec is the best way to go???
 
Kevin if the hoses are all the same size, which they should, I just took mine to advanced and they measured them up and cut me the size I wanted. Just be sure you cut in the middle of the line cause the ends are going to be flarred out due to being pushed over where they are connected. Try putting the seafoam back thru the vac lines again and look for the white smoke coming out any of the hoses, that would be a good way to track down the leak....good luck, I'm in clemson, only have a 60 and a 40, haven't done any work on an 80 but if ya need a hand send me a pm.

Chuck
 
Cruisin Tiger;
Im going to replace the formed ones too. I'm getting a price from Beno at american Toyota for those and hitting up the auto parts store for the others.

Im going to wait and replace the hoses before I seafoam it again. That way I will look for the leaks like you said. I appreciate the offer for help and might just take ya up on it. I'm bare bones right now as all my tools and stuff is in storage. I have a bag of sockets and a few other tools to work with and that's pretty much it.

Does anyone know where I can get a diagram of the vacuum hoses on a 94? I want to make sure I get them all

Thanks for all the help guys
 
You can buy them from Ralph Hayes Toyota and get a 25% discount and then just go pick them up and save on shipping. They are the clubs sponsor and give 25% parts AND labor to all UC members.
 
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