Should I start buying parts now?
My oil looks like Testor's Metalic paint
- Thread starter orttauq
- Start date
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Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Did you add anything to the oil ? Like a engine cleaner or switch brands?
- Thread starter
- #4
No cleaners and did not change brands but when on a road trip needed to add a quart. Gas station did not have the Castrol High Mileage so used their full synthetic.
That's the new additive that's in the newer oils causing that. I think it's called main bearing shimmer. It's all the rage in the high mileage and failing engine communities.
Does it have a rod knock? If not this is what I would try:
Go buy a bunch of Dexron lll atf and some oil filters. Put a new oil filter on, then fill engine with the atf rather than motor oil. Start it up and let it idle for about an hour while monitoring it here and there. After the hour, drain atf, replace with new filter, fill again with atf, let idle for another hour. Drain again, new filter, but this time use a good one, Napa platinum is pretty good, fill with motor oil-try some that's a little thicker, like 10w40. Also add 2 bottles of liquimoly engine additive. This will add a bunch of moly to the oil. Here it is on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414/?tag=ihco-20
Drive it around on trips not too far from home for a bit. Don't be afraid to b hard on it. If it does fine, put a few hundred miles on it, then drain a cup of the oil and look at it. If it looks good, continue to drive it as normal, and start setting some money aside for a rebuild. If the engine starts knocking, stop driving it immediately and do a rebuild.
- Thread starter
- #9
Engine has ZERO knock and runs fine and strong for the miles
Funny you should say that, I thought that was my name for a long time lol...popular opinion doesn't lieDick
Probably the dumbest question in the history of mud.
Of course you should. You should never not be buying parts.
In fact, buy a whole parts truck and start snatching up new s*** because you never know when it will be discontinued.
Duh.
just drive it man.......
I'm thinking it has more to with mixing Castrol and a synthetic oil. Those are two very different types and may not play well together.
Castrol is a vegetable based oil and synthetic is just that. Never mix them. That's why I have never run Castrol. Because you should ONLY use Castrol to refill.
Do a search on oil compatibility.
Castrol is a vegetable based oil and synthetic is just that. Never mix them. That's why I have never run Castrol. Because you should ONLY use Castrol to refill.
Do a search on oil compatibility.
This. If it runs strong and there's no unusual noises, stop worrying.
Contact blackstone or polaris labs and send off a sample to find out what's really going on.. will be about $35 IIRC. You'll get a full report of what metals are in the oil, in what quantities, how your numbers compare to other 1FZs, etc etc etc. Super valuable information.
Wow. You mean real diagnostic testing as opposed to pointless speculation? Don't be ridiculous.
Nothing wrong with mixing oils. Doesn't hurt anything. That's what off the shelf synthetic blend oil is-some synthetic some Dino.
usually using mineral-based oil (lol @ vegetable oil - perhaps he meant lanolin based rather then ash based?) then changing to synthetic oil will cause sludge problems because synthetic is a more detergent oil. Some will run a quart of ATF to do a good clean on their motor (adding an extra quart of diesel does the same thing) to clean out the motor then change the oil and filter after a couple hundred miles.
That said, silver is bearings - how's your oil pressure been? if you have to add a quart at a gas station that usually means you're already going through oil and your motor is getting near its time to get some new rings...
mitigation - put a stereo magnet on the bottom of your pan to keep the flakes from continually going through the bits that need lubed. Your filter usually cleans 30-60% of the oil, so the shavings are going through the motor. If you simply attach a magnet to the pan, it keeps the metal at the bottom of the pan. Most vehicles I build, I run a magnetic oil drain plug so that I can monitor how the engine is doing. A bit of metal, while not great, isn't really that huge of a deal.... yours, with the loss of oil, the metal in the pan - it really is time to start considering what you're going to do when it goes completely. Benefit of doing it now, it can be rebuilt. Once you throw a rod through the side - it's less likely it would be rebuilt.
That said, silver is bearings - how's your oil pressure been? if you have to add a quart at a gas station that usually means you're already going through oil and your motor is getting near its time to get some new rings...
mitigation - put a stereo magnet on the bottom of your pan to keep the flakes from continually going through the bits that need lubed. Your filter usually cleans 30-60% of the oil, so the shavings are going through the motor. If you simply attach a magnet to the pan, it keeps the metal at the bottom of the pan. Most vehicles I build, I run a magnetic oil drain plug so that I can monitor how the engine is doing. A bit of metal, while not great, isn't really that huge of a deal.... yours, with the loss of oil, the metal in the pan - it really is time to start considering what you're going to do when it goes completely. Benefit of doing it now, it can be rebuilt. Once you throw a rod through the side - it's less likely it would be rebuilt.
*Ferrous metal. A magnet won't attract/trap lead or copper.
UOA will show all of it, including extremely early signs of head gasket failure, fuel dilution, water (condensate) in the oil, whether the oil is still thick enough to protect....
I know right? This site is dead to me now.