My Mexican 1965 FJ40V Build Thread (14 Viewers)

MexicanNewby

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Update SUNDAY!

First of all, paint has been applied on the whole body and dash.

1) The underbody was first covered with a coat of polyurethane for protection and then paint.

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During the idle times, muffler was installed. I cannot, CANNOT, begin to thank the two older gents who came to do the job. They normally do heavy equipment.

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Here's the first coating and Top was painted, which was a mistake at this point, will elaborate later:

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MexicanNewby

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So the previous headliner was gone and there's a very, VERY, solid layer of what I believe i some sort of insulator. I am also entertaining the possibility that this is basically petrified foam from the original Headliner.

Although solid, there is a part that is heavily cracked, I believe it was from someone or something hitting the top hard.

So now the question is to remove fully or repair the crack and apply the headliner on top of it and have an extra layer of insulation. I fear the structural integrity of the top to be compromised.


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I also got the CruiserCorps headliner, the rear corners seem to be too tight and fall several inches away from the actual curve of the top. Has anyone ever had this problem?


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MexicanNewby

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The rear bi-fold door is amazing. I know it is impractical but I love it.

Mine was missing the wheel that runs in the channel at the back, so I had to improvise and got some poly wheels from a regular closet sliding door set.

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The detail is amazing, the handles are marked according to their side.

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Here it is painted, the rubber is, of course, @Racer65. The quality is amazing!

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MexicanNewby

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The wheel that guides the door up and down the panel was gone.

So here was my solution:

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This was too wide, so I first separated the wheel, blew the inner bit with a hammer, clamped it and then polished it off as evenly as possible around till it fit.

Then put the wheel onto the bold, hammered it in and gave it a few sport of welding.

Mind you, the bearing was left intact, so the wheel spins freely.

The result:

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The door is sliding properly up and down. Problem solved.

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MexicanNewby

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Probably because of my inexperience I have been having trouble with wrinkles on the corner of the rear glass weather striping. Can anyone chip in with some wisdom please?
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Also, the weatherstripping that goes between the side panels and the top is different on bifold doors than later models, this one is a two piece set VS the continuous one with the rear lift gate.
I wrote to Roger about this and he suggested I try the continuous one and simply cut it. Well, guess what? I fits perfect! Will do the cutting later this week.

The cut has to be right before the large hole on the rubber. Every other hole matches perfectly.

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MexicanNewby

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The rear barn doors are finished.

I decided to install in order to present before getting the rubber gaskets for the handles and latches.

Everything is there except the rubber bump at the top of the spare tire carrier, even the bottom rubber was there. Will need to give it some love though.



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I've also bee tinkering with the windshield latches, the PO put these allen wrench bolts instead of the traditional ones. I'm thinking I´ll keel them, at least for the time being.

I want to see which parts are scratching the paint off, etc...

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The defroster deflectors are also mounted, also a bit scratched from mounting...

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I had originally bought the CCOT cushion to go between the panels and tub but found it too thin and feeble. Got some standard rubber foam gasket from an auto store and used it for both the transmission hump and this. It cam out great, just need to cut off a bit so it doesn't show as much.

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MexicanNewby

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This was late october:

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This was yesterday.

Bezel installed and emblems too, one headlight broke during transport maneuvers, oh, well...

Turn signals were also painted body colour. Got them from Roger too at a ver reasonable price.

I also think I am keeping the clear bib lenses, I like the evident pass of time on them.


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middlecalf

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Great stuff, nice detail. Do you need to cut the roof gasket? That wide part just extends into the cab and being in the back won’t be too noticeable. Just a thought. You might try a little heat from a hair dryer - not too much - on those weather stripping wrinkles and rub them down with fingers as you go. I’ve seen them disappear once the rig sits in the sun a bit.
 

MexicanNewby

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Great stuff, nice detail. Do you need to cut the roof gasket? That wide part just extends into the cab and being in the back won’t be too noticeable. Just a thought. You might try a little heat from a hair dryer - not too much - on those weather stripping wrinkles and rub them down with fingers as you go. I’ve seen them disappear once the rig sits in the sun a bit.


Thanks! So those wrinkles are normal?

Regarding the rood gasket, I've also entertained the idea of not cutting it and either bolting it or gluing it to the top to avoid it sagging, which it probably will.
Since the bifold already has the top rubber, I figured I may go for simply cutting it.

J
 

middlecalf

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I’ve experienced those wrinkles, and I’ve seen a few others in builds. So I guess you could say they are normal. You might also use a very thin plastic blade of sorts - but not sharp edged- and help the rubber seal edge move out over the glass. Squirt some soapy water along the edge. They just need some coercion.
 
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Here's a few pics of the inside door panels after they were treated with rust converter. Do you think it needs something else?
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I don’t know if you have already addressed this, but I would definitely recommend you use some paint coatings on the inside followed by some fluid film once everything is done. I can recommend Zero Rust. I use liberally and allow it to flow into all the crevices. It will help keep some of your rust from getting worse. The fluid film goes even deeper, but make sure your paint is well cured. Good luck.
 

MexicanNewby

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Thank you, I am going to check what I can do now, with the doors painted and all...I asked around and was under the impression that what I had done was enough to rpevent rust in the future, specially the drain holes underneath.
I don’t know if you have already addressed this, but I would definitely recommend you use some paint coatings on the inside followed by some fluid film once everything is done. I can recommend Zero Rust. I use liberally and allow it to flow into all the crevices. It will help keep some of your rust from getting worse. The fluid film goes even deeper, but make sure your paint is well cured. Good luck.
 
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From the pics you posted you look unprotected. Get some paint in there. No need to be pretty just slip it all around. You will be glad you did.
 

MexicanNewby

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Will see what can be done. I used Wurth Rust Converter and I assume that's not enough. I really do appreciate the advise.
 

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