Builds My attempt at bringing another FJ40 back to life

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I am like your Grandpaw when it comes to these old trucks. I would rather fix the OEM part and have it all OEM than go buy a new or even used part. To me it's part of owning one. I'll have $25,000 or more in comparable labor in mine when it's done and wouldn't be able to sell it for more than $5000.00, but by God it's mine, and I can say I did ALL the work on it. I will be tackling my doors soon, and will come back to this thread for ideas! BTW I would place a few tack welds on those worn gear teeth then use a file to shape them.
 
Great thread................subscribed!!!!
 
I made the decision last night to remove the front bib and radiator in order to comfortably crank the F engine by hand. Going to inspect the valves. By golly, the PTO shaft pillow block was in my way. I wanted to remove the radiator support frame. So off with the winch assembly. I still think I want a weathered look for this rig, so I'll just knock some wads of grease off and re-install. The front two PTO shaft sections required an introduction to my BFH.
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Keeping to my low budget game plan I rehabbed all my drum wheel cylinders, dual brake master, clutch master and clutch slave. When I confirm my engine and tranny are working I'll order some new brake shoes and probably drums.

@JohnnyC did OEM 3 speeds come with a spray painted code. Or is the mark from a rebuilder?
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I recall seeing the painted before ... I think they did ... Here is a 66' with LR2

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That is a Ramsey pto ... Not toyota :)
 
Closer to a test start. All the hydraulic systems are now rebuilt:eek: I should have a harness installed soon. I serviced the diff's, xfer and hit all zirks except a couple hard-to-reach driveline zirks. Need to figure out how to get at them.

Opened up the 3speed for a look-see, which ate up more time than intended. I strayed from my sweaty build plan today....the shift cane and PTO lever assembly got wire wheeled and some lipstick. I couldn't bear re-installing a rusty tranny hump so I got it prepped for paint. I did resist cleaning up the underside:)

Needed a break from the 71 so I got my 76 from storage and went for a drive. :steer:Might test mount the Warn this week.
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Also prepped a VG bezel I picked up for the 76. Have a "cygnus white" rattle can from CruiserCorps. Hopefully it's durable paint, little concerned it might not be.
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I had the same Remy dizzy on my 77. It had two stock retainers welded together holding it in place. If you use a Trolhole dizzy (or maybe any other dizzy) the shaft WILL NOT REACH THE OIL PUMP using the retainer that was with the Remy.! I know this for a fact. Either get another retainer or cut the two apart. Make darn certain you have oil pressure prior to start up.
 
Thanks for the heads up emac. I'll re-inspect. I found on old ND vac advance I'm going to use. I replaced the rocker oil tube and still have the valve cover off. So, before ignition, I may squirt some oil in the pistons, then turn it over til oil gets to the rockers. Hopefully.

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Guessing this regulator must be aftermarket. The only marking on it is a big black 7 on the metal base.
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Here's my cleaned up tranny hump. Thank goodnesss I had a can of gloss clearcoat to go over the Cruiser Corps paint. It' super flat and would have stained easily.
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Getting very close to a test fire. Wrapped up most of the harness intall. I'd still be scratching my head and muttering if it wasn't for COOLERMAN. Doubt many other car hobbies have support like he provides. All I have left is fan blade, radiator and bib.
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Also need to make sure my dizzy is in correctly. With #1 cylinder at TDC, timing mark aligned and rotor on #1 I stabbed the dizzy in. It wouldn't fully seat, dizzy ground stud was hitting the side cover. So I spun the dizzy counter-clock. It popped in but now I wonder if it'll be too advanced. Contemplating moving all the plug wires clockwise 1 position.
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Coolerman said:
I also had a Delco-Remy in my 71 when I got it. MAF sold these years ago as a "performance" distributor... Uh huh...
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I have that dizzy in my 71 and yes, I bought it from Manafre at least 2 decades ago for "performance" reasons. What's wrong with them? My truck has mostly been sitting in a garage for those two decades but I did drive it for a few years with that dizzy and it seemed to work. But I didn't really have anything to compare it to and am in no way an expert. Is there some reason I should change it now (I'm now driving the truck and it seems to be working fine)….
 
I've read a few posts by Mark's Of Burbank to toss the Delco-Remy's as far as possible from your Land Cruiser. Not sure if MAF's performance version is lumped in there. I think Mr. Spector who built Spector Offroad wasn't a fan either. Heck if yours runs good with it, might as well keep running it. I'll send you mine if you want another. My FJ40's old skipper seemed to like MAN-A-FRE. So maybe mines a MAF.:meh:
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thebigredrocker said:
I've read a few posts by Mark's Of Burbank to toss the Delco-Remy's as far as possible from your Land Cruiser. Not sure if MAF's performance version is lumped in there. I think Mr. Spector who built Spector Offroad wasn't a fan either. Heck if yours runs good with it, might as well keep running it. I'll send you mine if you want another. My FJ40's old skipper seemed to like MAN-A-FRE. So maybe mines a MAF.:meh:View attachment 1284763
Click to expand...

Holy s***e! they can cause your windshield to crack! NEEDLESS TO SAY Mr. Specter would not like Mr. Manafre's carb, right? At the time, they were the two big companies, right? I think I got a whole "power" package from them, Weber carb, the dizzy, and headers (Delco starter, too). I was supposed to be able to pop wheelies. All that stuff is in there right now and after sitting 20 or more years in the garage it is suddenly running better than ever. WTF?
Don't mean to confuse up the thread, OP, apologies.
 
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