Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80

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69rambler said:
Nice work on those twins, looks clean under there. I really like the power an HX35 delivers on a 4BT above 2000 RPM. I'd guess your small twin setup brings the below 2000 range back into check very well? Assuming I can compare Cummins to Fuso power.
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Below 2000 RPM, the response feels just like stock. I'm getting 15psi by 1600. The 4BT and 4D34 are both direct injected 3.9L, with similar bore/stroke. If expect them to respond similarly
 
I may have missed this but did you leave the stock 4.10 gears in it with the 37"s and getting 20 with 37's is unreal, that is 25-26 with smaller tires, 37's killed my mpg on my cummins due to the rolling resistance ..
 
RAYJON said:
I may have missed this but did you leave the stock 4.10 gears in it with the 37"s and getting 20 with 37's is unreal, that is 25-26 with smaller tires, 37's killed my mpg on my cummins due to the rolling resistance ..
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Yes, stock 4.10s. The biggest problem I have is being unable to get the converter to lock under 58MPH in OD. If I could, I think the economy would improve more.

I got 21.2 on the last tank, driving it hard with the compounds. Everyone I talked to in the 3/4-1 ton world said compounds increase economy, I guess they were right.

I'm considering going down to 315s, I'm sure economy will improve... we'll see!
 
Can you wire in an over-ride lockup switch on the T/C solenoid? I did on an electronic auto car I used to own and it made a big difference in drivability through hills.

I had two lights beside the switch. Green LED meant the computer was trying to lock up the T/C, Red LED meant override was on.
 
That is a neat set up man. Can you tell what boost your hx 35 is putting out by itself? If you wanted a faster spool on the large turbo you could go with an He 341 from 01-04 cummins. Has the same compressor with a tiny bit smaller turbine and 9cm exhaust instead of the 12 you most likely have. I think its a direct bolt on.

Your intake plumbing would be tight, but if you did a cold air intake from outside id bet you could cut your egts by 50-75F. The compounds throw off a ton of heat into your bay. Congrats, it looks great.
g
 
Dougal said:
Can you wire in an over-ride lockup switch on the T/C solenoid? I did on an electronic auto car I used to own and it made a big difference in drivability through hills.

I had two lights beside the switch. Green LED meant the computer was trying to lock up the T/C, Red LED meant override was on.
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That's a great idea and something I have considered. Just haven't got around to it yet... Buy it is slowly moving to the top of the list
 
gerg said:
That is a neat set up man. Can you tell what boost your hx 35 is putting out by itself? If you wanted a faster spool on the large turbo you could go with an He 341 from 01-04 cummins. Has the same compressor with a tiny bit smaller turbine and 9cm exhaust instead of the 12 you most likely have. I think its a direct bolt on.

Your intake plumbing would be tight, but if you did a cold air intake from outside id bet you could cut your egts by 50-75F. The compounds throw off a ton of heat into your bay. Congrats, it looks great.
g
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Thanks!!

I do not know what kind of boost the holset alone is putting out. It would be rather simple for me to check... I'll see if I get around to it. The spool up is quite good right now, but I'll remember that as an option, thanks. This turbo was essentially free, that's the only reason I went with it.

I've been thinking of a cold air box or something to that effect. I just switched from the cheap spectre air filter I had lying around to a slightly larger K&N, and egts dropped about 50 degrees and I picked up a couple pounds of boost.
 
This must be wild.

The compound turbo setup is amazing and it fits in so well. I have a feeling that the stock turbo is just falling flat on its face past 15 PSI, and this would really make it more efficient. I may just try it for giggles.

I wish there was a way to get more fuel out of mine without programming, maybe just through injector nozzles or another easy upgrade. On the VW TDIs, you can get 15% more power with injectors.

Have you towed with it yet? Any comments on EGTs and power, say, towing a car trailer with a car on it?
 
Fromage said:
This must be wild.

The compound turbo setup is amazing and it fits in so well. I have a feeling that the stock turbo is just falling flat on its face past 15 PSI, and this would really make it more efficient. I may just try it for giggles.
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It's really a perfect fit and was super easy to do. The stock turbo was really past its efficiency range past 15 psi, just like you said.

I got the holset for free, the rest of my investment was under $200 to put it on.

Fromage said:
I wish there was a way to get more fuel out of mine without programming, maybe just through injector nozzles or another easy upgrade. On the VW TDIs, you can get 15% more power with injectors.

Have you towed with it yet? Any comments on EGTs and power, say, towing a car trailer with a car on it?
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I've been following your thread... I wonder if those pots in the ECU are adjustments for fueling?

Yes, I have towed with it, and it is a pleasure. I towed a 6000lb load down the freeway at 75mph without issue, it will even pull it up grades with ease. Just downshift out of OD for the hills and the turbo happily sings along at 30lbs. EGTs never top 1300 degrees unless I try to pull the grades in OD.

Here is a 0-90MPH accel video...

http://youtu.be/Qu4fxaed-K8
 
Fantastic video! By the sound, it appears that the transmission is shifting about where you would want it to.

This provides inspiration for me to get back to my swap.
 
astr said:
Fantastic video! By the sound, it appears that the transmission is shifting about where you would want it to.

This provides inspiration for me to get back to my swap.
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Thanks! It actually sounds like it shifts to OD, but that's the converter locking up...

This video shows how much smoke the truck makes when going full throttle from a stop, and full throttle from a roll around a turn.

http://youtu.be/pcJNo2YWza4
 
SuperHatch said:
Shafts side by side. I measures the thickness of the flanges... A442F is 0.172" thick, AW450-43LE is 0.182" thick. Looking at them plainly they look almost identical. Also, my A442F output flange had this written on it... HD???
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Hi hatch iam doing a very simmler swap but with an isuzu 4he1 but same aw450 trans with a442f output shaft . To save me a s*** load of time could you pm me the data on your spacers and park lock rod ?. Iam also useing fjz 80 transfer case aswell.
 
SuperHatch said:
Got the extension housing installed, only to find out it was spaced too far back for the park lock rod to engage into the park lock actuator. So, I took the housing off and measure the distance. I needed the rod to come back another 0.250".

I stuffed many a rag into the entire tailhousing area and then proceeded to cut the sleeve on the end of the park lock rod between the actual engagement sleeve and the welded end. I was able to split this off, and the spring had enough extension in it to push en egagement sleeve the additional 0.250" down that I needed. Unfortuately I didn't take any pictures of this.

Another thing I learned, the AW450 park lock rod is larger in diameter than the A442F rod. So, it won't engage into the A442F reciever that bolts into the extension housing. The two "fingers" are too close together. Also, that reciever is hardened steel, so don't try to bend them out, they'll just break (Ask how I know)

Also, the reciever on the A442F has a slightly smaller bolt pattern than the reciever from the AW450, so they won't just interchange. You need to elingate the holes... good luck on hardened steel. I ended up using my plasma cutter!!! But hey, it worked, and with those two mods I have park now, which is kinda a big deal to me.

Low and behold, the whole mamma jamma came together, this is one HUGE transmission!!!
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Witch reciever did you use in the houseing ?. Just to make sure iam guessing the aw450 ?.and did you swap park rods aswell? Iam guessing not sence you are modding the reciever.
 
SuperHatch said:
Since pictures are worth a thousand words...

The first picture is a 1AT injection pump. You can see that the front end of the pump (where the timing gear is) is identical to the front end of the 3AT pump in the second picture.

The difference is the back end of the pump where the governor is housed. There on the 1AT pump there is throttle linkage on the top of the governor and a boost refence hose on the back. On the 3AT pump is it all electronic.
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ok i know this is an old ass tread but my question is this . can the 3at pump be swapped out directly with a 1at ? sence the timeing gear and bolt patten is the same ? shouldnt have to chaange injectors or anything correct ?
 
titantesla said:
ok i know this is an old ass tread but my question is this . can the 3at pump be swapped out directly with a 1at ? sence the timeing gear and bolt patten is the same ? shouldnt have to chaange injectors or anything correct ?
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I know the intake manifold is different, slightly.
I would definitely bring the injectors over with the pump.
 
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