You should definitely try and do the headgasket job and film the whole thing for us....
Did you watch the video I posted from Otramm? It walks you through the whole thing, step by step.
misfire shake down trip work (250K) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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You should definitely try and do the headgasket job and film the whole thing for us....
Did you watch the video I posted from Otramm? It walks you through the whole thing, step by step.
The definitive test to determine if you need a head gasket is a combustion gas test. Cheap and easy to do. Start with this first.
- Thread starter
- #23
hey LN.
i appreciate that. i've been trying to find the time to tackle things and it's slow going.
i am pretty sure i tried a head gasket test (i definitely bought the kit) when i was tracking down an always empty overflow jug. turned out it didn't leak "on the bench" but was leaking with hot coolant.
i could always do it again.
part of what i am trying to figure out is if it makes sense for me to do something like valve "cover gasket plus" in addition to coils and plugs and leads? supposedly the distributor cap was replaced in the last 50K by the previous owner.
also what about doing the ignition coil or whatever? one poster here seems to think it could be misfire from the oil fouling a plug which make sense since i ALSO got the code on a 1,000 mile old plug.
someone else was saying head gasket.
unlikely distributor?
what about the ignition coil (or whatever).
it's helpful to learn the names and my way around the engine. i don't know i'd do more than plugs and coils and maybe a distributor cap up here by myself but if i get help at a reasonable price i'd like to do what makes sense.
THANKS
i appreciate that. i've been trying to find the time to tackle things and it's slow going.
i am pretty sure i tried a head gasket test (i definitely bought the kit) when i was tracking down an always empty overflow jug. turned out it didn't leak "on the bench" but was leaking with hot coolant.
i could always do it again.
part of what i am trying to figure out is if it makes sense for me to do something like valve "cover gasket plus" in addition to coils and plugs and leads? supposedly the distributor cap was replaced in the last 50K by the previous owner.
also what about doing the ignition coil or whatever? one poster here seems to think it could be misfire from the oil fouling a plug which make sense since i ALSO got the code on a 1,000 mile old plug.
someone else was saying head gasket.
unlikely distributor?
what about the ignition coil (or whatever).
it's helpful to learn the names and my way around the engine. i don't know i'd do more than plugs and coils and maybe a distributor cap up here by myself but if i get help at a reasonable price i'd like to do what makes sense.
THANKS
FMC80
SILVER Star
Stop complicating it. Do what Charlie said. Plugs. Pull them-especially the stuck ones. You probably have no electrodes left on them.
Cap, rotor, and Wires then drive it and observe.
Cap, rotor, and Wires then drive it and observe.
Listen to the Advanced Trig Professor himself, do what Pell says and you will generally be in good shape^
OP, I have seen numerous posts of yours over the past few years. You are not ready for a head gasket job at this point. It doesn't require a lot of skill but it does require a lot of knowledge about your truck and the parts involved.
You are mentally going down a rabbit hole. Do the compression and leak down tests. Replace the plugs. I would probably just go ahead and do the wires (use OE) and the coil. The distributor is probably fine. If you want to replace the plug seals and VC gasket, that's a relatively quick process.
My original head had a crack, but it sat at the shop for over a month before they could get to it to do the pressure check. I then spent a month getting another head and two months getting it back. It is not a quick process. For me, the entire head replacement took about 6 months. Are you going to be there for 4-6 months for the process? Are you going to be near a competent cylinder head shop to begin with?
Also, "bottom end" means pulling the entire engine. Do you have an engine hoist where you are? And a machine shop you can trust?
- Thread starter
- #27
yeah. thanks. just gathering info. appreciate the heads up. i'm figuring out what i have access to, and what things might look like based upon feedback here and going to decide here in a bit. of course i appreciate your help/concern.
curious what the motivation is for cooler range spark plugs. No judgement here, just curious.
- Thread starter
- #29
i think because the code was happening after running it super hard for a whole day. so i think "colder" plugs are happier in a hotter engine if i am not mistaken.
plus i think it could be people think i am getting the code in texas where it's like 105dF could play a part in it even though i got one in LA and one in WVA.
i am kind of taking a shining to the idea the misfire is due to oil fouling since one was pulled after a thousand miles with a code. but i am not totally sure why it would only happen after a full day and running it hard?
False just get stock plugs
Bear in mind the wide range of conditions the factory plugs are designed to endure. A colder plug probably won't fix your problem, it is an underlying condition.
All this time spent pontificating...
FMC80
SILVER Star
Do you mind posting a picture of your vin plate?
When using LPG fuel it burns hotter than petrol so a colder plug is used to accommodate for this.
Ive been using LPG on my motor & colder plugs for over 20 years without any issues plus i also use the Flashlube upper cyl lubricant via the intake manifold vacuum
He doesn't have LPG. None of us here do.
He's just overthinking it.
Actually introducing new issues by having different range of plugs in different cylinders.
Maybe he should pour a bunch of Seafoam in it too!
- Thread starter
- #36
yeah. two main theories seem to be oil fouling the plugs (at higher rpm/mph on hills and after very long usage) and head gasket (under same conditions and also causing a cylinder misfire code p0302 and p0305).
one thing is one plug was old and the second time i got a code it was for a cylinder with a new plug.
from what i can tell i am doing A. a tune up which is plug and wires and maybe a new distributor cap (the one in there is supposedly 50K old) or i am B. doing a full valve cover gasket and valve stem seals etc.
i'm doing a new radiator up here since the price is right and i am pretty sure i have someone to put it in.
so beyond that it would involve leaving it here for head gasket i suppose or ask them how long it would take to do if i tried to stick around.
i guess when i do a compression snd leak down test snd maybe a radiator gas test i can report back with more info.
- Thread starter
- #37
anyone up for reviewing a parts list for a tune up and one for a valve cover job? i'm planning on ordering parts for both here soon with the idea i'll have some help putting them in and it would be great to get some eyeballs on it?
or maybe also for the radiator job? i couldn't tell if maybe i have some extra hoses listed?
THANKS
or maybe also for the radiator job? i couldn't tell if maybe i have some extra hoses listed?
THANKS
i was only answering a question around colder plugs.
my earlier post suggested using the STD recommended plug as it sounds like theres iridiums in there which is overkill
either way, the motor in question has over 200,000miles and the description of oil consumption etc is classic valve stem seals given he mentions power is still there
