FMC80
SILVER Star
I’m dying here!!!
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I’m dying here!!!
Getting a lot of mileage out of this one....
yeah. thanks. seems odd it only happens after a full day of driving and really, really running it hard though. so i suppose colder plugs can't hurt.Bear in mind the wide range of conditions the factory plugs are designed to endure. A colder plug probably won't fix your problem, it is an underlying condition.
yeah. thanks. seems odd it only happens after a full day of driving and really, really running it hard though. so i suppose colder plugs can't hurt.
also if replacing the plug and clearing the code makes it go away - and it hasn't come back in "regular driving" - i'm wondering if there is any harm in just replacing plugs and coils and driving it back. basically.
i mean, well i suppose if i get someone to do a compression and leak down it could show an underlying issue? or if i test the radiator for oil it could show an underlying issue?
but if it is running really strong i am starting to think i could just change the plugs and coils and drive it back with extra plugs. or if i have access to cheap OEM parts and someone to put it in i could do the radiator now too.
both of these would be pretty straightforward.
but also if i find the right guy up here i could buy employee priced parts and have him do valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals while i am up here. and if he'll let me wrench i can just add in some extra time on this end.
one question: can you inspect rings and cylinder bores when you do a valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals? i guess that's a part i'm still not tracking.
thanks. it's always tricky learning something.This is the thing with all the advice you get on your posts. You're not reading the answers.
People have driven with a blown head gasket. Do a compression test. Do it before posting anything else. Post the numbers.
If you have leaky valve seals, you can drive all the way home. If you have to carry around a box of spark plugs to do a road trip, you have an underlying condition.
If you can't do your own radiator, you're not ready to do the head gasket yourself.
You can inspect the cylinder walls with a borescope camera. But if you get a compression test done, it will tell you what you (likely) need to know.
The engine order is valve cover, cylinder head, head gasket, engine block. The block is where the pistons are. You can't physically see the cylinders with the naked eye with the valve cover off, because the cams and head are in the way.
thanks man. i haven't had a chance to check my timing unfortunately. i've just been trying to slowly sort it and haven't gotten to it. i do have the code reader here so this has helped because engine codes far from home is a but of trial by fire for me.I forgot about this, "seems odd it only happens after a full day of driving and really, really running it hard though. so i suppose colder plugs can't hurt."
Yes, colder plugs can absolutely hurt. You have a stock engine. Use stock plugs. You run the risk of fouling the plugs quickly when you're just driving around because you won't get them hot enough to burn off deposits. If you were running a turbo, sure. If you're running lean, a colder plug could help, but that's an underlying issue. If you have advanced the timing, you could run a colder plug. What's your timing set at?
I believe the stock plug is Denso heat range 16, which corelates to an NGK 5. You're only going one plug colder. That might help if you are doing high RPM, high speed interstate driving in hot weather.....but is not going to work well for around town or short trips.
I eagerly await the new post where we explain how to check your timing, what it means, what it should be, and how it impacts the price of tea in the southern hemisphere.thanks man. i haven't had a chance to check my timing unfortunately. i've just been trying to slowly sort it and haven't gotten to it. i do have the code reader here so this has helped because engine codes far from home is a but of trial by fire for me.
thanks. trying to get my notes together here.You put the scope down the spark plug holes (with the plugs removed). You don't have to take the VC off to do it.
A compression test will give you one idea if you should drive it, and that's if you have a bad head gasket. It doesn't mean you have no other problems. Ideally, your cylinder numbers should be within 10 percent of one another. If the first five cylinders are between 175 and 195 and the sixth cylinder is below, say 120, you have an issue.
A leakdown test will give you a better idea of what the mechanical issue is with the engine (worn rings, bad head gasket, bent valves/worn seats).
I am absolutely not saying you can just drive it home after doing plugs and wires. I am saying you need to do some basic tests to narrow down the issue or see if you're at the precipice of a catastrophic failure.
BingoYou're endlessly pontificating and theorizing instead of getting productive work done.
So I can be sure to avoid this 80 like the motherfucking plague if it ever comes up for sale.Do you mind posting a picture of your vin plate?