Metal Tech Rear LCA Write Up

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Aug 4, 2012
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Location
Fairfax, VA
I had debated upgrading rear LCA's to something a bit more stout... but Uwharrie forced my hand. I slipped off a rocky stretch when I lost traction, and bent the LCA both upward and inward.

I did my research previously and went with Metal Tech's model. From my research, others require re-drilling and/or using stock hardware, however Metal Tech's comes with new hardware made for the 100.
photo 1 (2).webp

These also include Johnny Joints for up to 30* lateral motion to increase flex in long(er) travel applications. I'll likely never reap the full advantage of this, but in case I do I'm ready. They do need to be serviced, but from what I've read its around 30k miles for high use applications. For more information on Johnny Joints, you can view their video here.

Below are instructions - Its pretty straight forward, but hopefully it helps someone out with what I did/learned.

Here is a list of tools/materials needed:
- 20mm and 24mm wrenches/sockets for removing factory bolts
- 21mm and 22mm wrenches/sockets for new hardware
- BFH and metal punch (especially if they're bent)
- Ratchet strap (rated for 250# plus)
- Pipe wrench
- Moly lube
- Floor jack

photo 2 (3).webp photo 1 (3).webp photo 3 (2).webp

Start by taking out one LCA (if one is bent, use the other).

Using one of the new LCA's, rub some moly on the metal bushing tube, and insert into poly bushings. Whack it with a rubber hammer to sit snug. Grab your grease gun now if you want to top off the Johnny Joint (you'll see why below)

Use the stock bolts to line up the holes and extend the threaded end to your desires to correct pinion angle. Wade from MT recommended 1/4 to 3/8 when running a 2" lift.

Install new LCA. You may need to use a ratchet strap to compensate for the extended length. Strap one end to the axle, and the other to rear hitch, etc.
photo 4 (3).webp

Insert new bolts and snug it down. I went to ~90ft/lbs.

Use a large pipe wrench to snug the large nut on the adjustable end.

Use grease gun with moly to throw a few squirts in the rear mount, as well as the Johnny joint if you'd like.

Repeat for other side.

What I like:
- All hardware included - fits like a glove.
- Adjustable length.
- These things are STOUT! I doubt I'll get to take full advantage of the offset, or Johnny Joint, but its there if I need it.
- Offset provides more room for droop, and will slide over objects easier since its a stratight shot out the rear.
- Good quality powder coating
- Good customer service from the guys at Metal Tech

What I don't like:
- I wanted to keep both zerks facing upward to help protect them. There isn't enough clearance between the frame/Johnny Joint to grease it up, so I will need to improvise a 45* zerk, or 90* grease gun adapter.

Your old bent LCA can make a great wall hanger/souvenir - especially to remember your late night blacksmith shop trying to straighten it back out!
 
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Thanks for the writeup. Are you going to go bounce them off a few big rocks to test them out :)

How do these compare to the Slee offerings? Same thickness and strength but with the addition of the offset?
 
I'm sure Slee's are great, and they are about $75 cheaper, but I decided to go big or go home. New hardware, more stout, more features, adjustability, etc.

Granted - others will call attention to the need to service the Johnny Joints, etc, but hopefully these are the last LCA's I'll ever need and will last the reminder of the truck's life. Swapping out a $15 part just becomes part of the OCD maintenance protocol.

The runner up to Metal Tech were Wild West.
 
DJWUZJ, nice write-up with detailed pics.

Fireball, Slee's LCA's are a different design using 27.4mm solid steel vs MT's 1.75" x .290 wall tubing.
 
Thanks @hoser!

Here is an up close shot of the zerk thats tough to reach, not sure what others have done, but you may consider getting a 45* zerk before you install. I say 45* vs 90* because with the angle its mounted on the forward end, it should be just right - likely around a 70* angle overall. 90 may be too much.

photo 3 (1).webp

I'm going to try this little gem I found on Amazon which should enable me to get the nozzle on to the zerk inside the forward frame mount for the Johnny Joint.

photo 3 (1).webp
 
My zerks are facing downward, easily accessible when installed. I have bounced mine off numerous rocks and still holding strong. I've posted this a few times, but I moved my entire rear axle back a half inch and it's help with rubbing and looks a little better.
 
Ho did you set the pinion angle? I am having mine done now and trying to figure it out?

Are you having issues with the angle? I think I have only read about one person using the adjustable arms at anything other than factory lengths.
 
Ho did you set the pinion angle? I am having mine done now and trying to figure it out?
If youre paying someone to install your link arms and they dont have the knowledge to adjust your pinion angle-go get your truck. Have them match them to stock length. They will likely make it worse.
 
Your goal is to end up with perfectly parallel flanges on the diff and t-case when its sitting at ride height. Start by matching the stock links for sure. The MT links used to run a bit long so you may find the best angle, closest to stock lengths, is where one pair is as short as it will go and the other pair gets adjusted out to achieve the correction. Or yeah, stay close to stock if they can't figure it out.
 
No issues,
Metal tech advice was what the mechanic suggested. Mechanic was looking for a pticular number, like 1.5 degrees. Thankfully his analysis was the same as metal tech, or vice versa.
 
It should be stated that the MetalTech Lowers don’t come with the hardware anymore. I jJUST received mine and nothing was there. I also checked the website and they don’t mention it anymore.

Just an FYI
 
No issues,
Metal tech advice was what the mechanic suggested. Mechanic was looking for a pticular number, like 1.5 degrees. Thankfully his analysis was the same as metal tech, or vice versa.

Glad you got it sorted. What was the advice from Metal tech? Did you just match stock?
 
John with metal tech _⁠_⁠_⁠_⁠_⁠_ "as far as pinion angle, you want the pinion angle to be returned to its original position so if they can guess what that angle is. You have two ways to do that one way is to guess, the other way is to compare it to the front flange, so the front flange of the driveshaft should be on the same plane of rotation as the rear. Both of those should be at the same angle/same plane. I'll take the lower link and match it up hole to hole and make it 3/16 longer than the original links, the upper I make shorter I want by 1/16th. That almost always gets me pretty much right on spot right where I need to be for a typical two inch lift”

That was his advice. Mechanic thought 3/16th was a bit much. So he is going to start with matching them to the old links first and see how it goes.
 
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