I had debated upgrading rear LCA's to something a bit more stout... but Uwharrie forced my hand. I slipped off a rocky stretch when I lost traction, and bent the LCA both upward and inward.
I did my research previously and went with Metal Tech's model. From my research, others require re-drilling and/or using stock hardware, however Metal Tech's comes with new hardware made for the 100.

These also include Johnny Joints for up to 30* lateral motion to increase flex in long(er) travel applications. I'll likely never reap the full advantage of this, but in case I do I'm ready. They do need to be serviced, but from what I've read its around 30k miles for high use applications. For more information on Johnny Joints, you can view their video here.
Below are instructions - Its pretty straight forward, but hopefully it helps someone out with what I did/learned.
Here is a list of tools/materials needed:
- 20mm and 24mm wrenches/sockets for removing factory bolts
- 21mm and 22mm wrenches/sockets for new hardware
- BFH and metal punch (especially if they're bent)
- Ratchet strap (rated for 250# plus)
- Pipe wrench
- Moly lube
- Floor jack

Start by taking out one LCA (if one is bent, use the other).
Using one of the new LCA's, rub some moly on the metal bushing tube, and insert into poly bushings. Whack it with a rubber hammer to sit snug. Grab your grease gun now if you want to top off the Johnny Joint (you'll see why below)
Use the stock bolts to line up the holes and extend the threaded end to your desires to correct pinion angle. Wade from MT recommended 1/4 to 3/8 when running a 2" lift.
Install new LCA. You may need to use a ratchet strap to compensate for the extended length. Strap one end to the axle, and the other to rear hitch, etc.

Insert new bolts and snug it down. I went to ~90ft/lbs.
Use a large pipe wrench to snug the large nut on the adjustable end.
Use grease gun with moly to throw a few squirts in the rear mount, as well as the Johnny joint if you'd like.
Repeat for other side.
What I like:
- All hardware included - fits like a glove.
- Adjustable length.
- These things are STOUT! I doubt I'll get to take full advantage of the offset, or Johnny Joint, but its there if I need it.
- Offset provides more room for droop, and will slide over objects easier since its a stratight shot out the rear.
- Good quality powder coating
- Good customer service from the guys at Metal Tech
What I don't like:
- I wanted to keep both zerks facing upward to help protect them. There isn't enough clearance between the frame/Johnny Joint to grease it up, so I will need to improvise a 45* zerk, or 90* grease gun adapter.
Your old bent LCA can make a great wall hanger/souvenir - especially to remember your late night blacksmith shop trying to straighten it back out!
I did my research previously and went with Metal Tech's model. From my research, others require re-drilling and/or using stock hardware, however Metal Tech's comes with new hardware made for the 100.

These also include Johnny Joints for up to 30* lateral motion to increase flex in long(er) travel applications. I'll likely never reap the full advantage of this, but in case I do I'm ready. They do need to be serviced, but from what I've read its around 30k miles for high use applications. For more information on Johnny Joints, you can view their video here.
Below are instructions - Its pretty straight forward, but hopefully it helps someone out with what I did/learned.
Here is a list of tools/materials needed:
- 20mm and 24mm wrenches/sockets for removing factory bolts
- 21mm and 22mm wrenches/sockets for new hardware
- BFH and metal punch (especially if they're bent)
- Ratchet strap (rated for 250# plus)
- Pipe wrench
- Moly lube
- Floor jack

Start by taking out one LCA (if one is bent, use the other).
Using one of the new LCA's, rub some moly on the metal bushing tube, and insert into poly bushings. Whack it with a rubber hammer to sit snug. Grab your grease gun now if you want to top off the Johnny Joint (you'll see why below)
Use the stock bolts to line up the holes and extend the threaded end to your desires to correct pinion angle. Wade from MT recommended 1/4 to 3/8 when running a 2" lift.
Install new LCA. You may need to use a ratchet strap to compensate for the extended length. Strap one end to the axle, and the other to rear hitch, etc.

Insert new bolts and snug it down. I went to ~90ft/lbs.
Use a large pipe wrench to snug the large nut on the adjustable end.
Use grease gun with moly to throw a few squirts in the rear mount, as well as the Johnny joint if you'd like.
Repeat for other side.
What I like:
- All hardware included - fits like a glove.
- Adjustable length.
- These things are STOUT! I doubt I'll get to take full advantage of the offset, or Johnny Joint, but its there if I need it.
- Offset provides more room for droop, and will slide over objects easier since its a stratight shot out the rear.
- Good quality powder coating
- Good customer service from the guys at Metal Tech
What I don't like:
- I wanted to keep both zerks facing upward to help protect them. There isn't enough clearance between the frame/Johnny Joint to grease it up, so I will need to improvise a 45* zerk, or 90* grease gun adapter.
Your old bent LCA can make a great wall hanger/souvenir - especially to remember your late night blacksmith shop trying to straighten it back out!
Last edited:
