Mars Pig - 1976 FJ55

Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
460
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Namby Pamby Land
Hey Marshal,
I just put dynamat into my (weekend/evening/...all night) project car... check out the what did you do to your... post for today. Carb should go out in the next day or so. Sorry "Pablocruise"... Mars took me up on the carb offer.
On that rear heater, see if the fan wasn't just stuck a little, that was apparently why mine was dc'ed by the previous owner. I bent it a little and away she goes... although I can't see you needing in where you live....
We must be living in a parallel universe or something. :lol: Check out what I laid down:



:grinpimp: This is RAAMmat BXT II. I don't have experience with any other stuff besides this, but I can say it is pretty cost effective, easy to apply and seems to really deaden things up. I got 74sf (that's two boxes) shipped for under $200. Took me about 46sf to cover from the firewall to completely under the rear seats (And I applied pretty liberally, two layers over much of the tranny hump and front floorboards). Nothing on the cargo area yet. The remainder I'm going to put inside the door panels, body panels and tailgate.

I'll dig into the heater, for all I know it might work and the PO just unplugged it. :meh:


You know, this is a great time to install power steering...
:lol::lol:

Don't tempt me. :grinpimp:
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
771
Location
Sweating in the rainforest or Winters, CA
We must be living in a parallel universe or something. :lol: Check out what I laid down:



:grinpimp: This is RAAMmat BXT II. I don't have experience with any other stuff besides this, but I can say it is pretty cost effective, easy to apply and seems to really deaden things up. I got 74sf (that's two boxes) shipped for under $200. Took me about 46sf to cover from the firewall to completely under the rear seats (And I applied pretty liberally, two layers over much of the tranny hump and front floorboards). Nothing on the cargo area yet. The remainder I'm going to put inside the door panels, body panels and tailgate.

I'll dig into the heater, for all I know it might work and the PO just unplugged it. :meh:
Jeeze, that looks way better than the other clean up pictures... Good luck on that seat mount. Probably welding (or even bolting) a cover plate over the top otta do it, eh?

See if the fan spins freely in the heater. Mine didn't and that was the issue.

How thick is the rammat? the Dynamat is .67 mils. I might get more for the doors and back cargo area when I hit the lottery. Gotta get her back on the road first. :steer:
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
460
Location
Namby Pamby Land
Well...here's how I looked at the sound deadening. (This is prior to shipping costs):

RAAMmat BXT II - 15" x 15" squares
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

Cost: 37.5sf @ $89.96 = $2.39/ft
Weight: .52lbs/ft
Thickness: .060"


Dynamat Xtreme Bulk Pack - 18" x 32" sheets
Amazon.com: Dynamat 10455 Xtreme Bulk Pack 9 Sheets: Automotive

Cost: 36sf @ $140.95 = $3.92/ft
Weight: .45lbs/ft
Thickness: .067"


CruiserCrap's Quietcrap - 50sf rolls - 18" x 33' :eek:
Quietcrap land cruiser sound deadener

Cost: 50sf @ $110 = $2.2/ft
Weight: NOT LISTED
Thickness: .07"


Second Skin - Damplifier Pro - 12" x 20" sheets
Damplifier Pro - Automotive Sound Deadener CLD Vibration damping mat - See what all the fuss is about

Cost: 36.5sf @ $159.97 = $4.38/ft
Weight: .6lbs/ft
Thickness: .08"


Peal & Seal - Lowe's Hardware aluminum asphalt roofing repair
Lowe's Roofing Material

Cost: 12.5sf @ ~$15.00 = $1.20/ft
Weight: .33lbs/ft
Thickness: .04"


I looked at Hushmat and a handful of others, but they either looked too expensive or just didn't provide enough information. I think that Second Skin has the best product out there, in my opinion, but you sure pay for it. I could almost get twice as much RAAMmat for the money. Cruiser Crap's stuff is nice, but I didn't see a weight listed, and the rolls looked hard to handle. You can see the stats listed...there is some other factors (like adhesive strength, foil thickness, etc), but for my money I think RAAMat is the best bang for the buck. :meh: Hard to go wrong with any of them really.

I am not a fan of the asphalt roofing stuff from Lowes. You can see it is about half the thickness of the others, weighs substantially less per pound, has worse adhesion, and most of all it is asphalt which will be heating, cooling, and off gassing in the car every day. Just my .02 on the matter. :cheers:
 
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Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
861
Location
Breckenridge, CO
I used second skin on my 80 and it worked OK. I picked up some quiet crap for my 55, and it seem about the same as the second skin. I just cut 3' sections off of the cruiser crap roll and it is alot easier to work with. At half the cost of the second skin cruiser crap is a much better deal, and you support a fellow cruiserhead.
 

Hugh Heifer

Georgia bound.
 
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
6,841
Location
Rome, GA bound
We must be living in a parallel universe or something. :lol: Check out what I laid down:



:grinpimp: This is RAAMmat BXT II. I don't have experience with any other stuff besides this, but I can say it is pretty cost effective, easy to apply and seems to really deaden things up. I got 74sf (that's two boxes) shipped for under $200. Took me about 46sf to cover from the firewall to completely under the rear seats (And I applied pretty liberally, two layers over much of the tranny hump and front floorboards). Nothing on the cargo area yet. The remainder I'm going to put inside the door panels, body panels and tailgate.

I'll dig into the heater, for all I know it might work and the PO just unplugged it. :meh:




:lol::lol:

Don't tempt me. :grinpimp:
That looks great! :cheers:
 

PabloCruise

 
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
18,289
Location
Northern Colorado
Hey Marshal,
I just put dynamat into my (weekend/evening/...all night) project car... check out the what did you do to your... post for today. Carb should go out in the next day or so. Sorry "Pablocruise"... Mars took me up on the carb offer.
On that rear heater, see if the fan wasn't just stuck a little, that was apparently why mine was dc'ed by the previous owner. I bent it a little and away she goes... although I can't see you needing in where you live....
No worries!
 

VCCruzr

 
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
1,924
Location
San Diego
Marshall,
Congrats on getting the piggy! It must be nice having a cruiser again. Good luck on the restoration.

Derrick
 

Southeast Overland

Get lost! Go explore!
 
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Messages
8,955
Location
SC
FWIW I used QuietCrap in my Pig. One layer everywhere including doors, floors, firewall (where I could reach) roof and under the hood and I put a second layer on the noisy floor areas (tranny hump and front floors). It made a HUGE difference.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
460
Location
Namby Pamby Land
Lot's been going on! Since last update, we've relocated from Vegas to Raleigh, North Carolina. It's been a great move for all of use to get out of the desert. :cool:

Working on getting rid of the rust in the rocker, and decided to copy other member's 2x4 slider/rockers. Got a lot of the prep work done today. One side was a rusted out mess, but the other (besides being filled with desert dirt) was nearly rust free. Broke my heart just a wee bit to be ripping out so much good sheet metal. :doh:

Before



During



During (this is the good side - nearly rust free)



After






Welder friend is fabbing some tapped-for-air 2x4 sliders for me. :bounce: Should be ready next week.
 

scrapdaddy

Standing on the corner
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Aug 21, 2011
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Dittmer, Mo.
How are you going to weld them in, just to the body or run supports back to the frame. I liked the picture of your baby in the back. We have four grandkids now, that's why I'm building a 71.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
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460
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Namby Pamby Land
Planning on welding straight to the body panels. They are long enough that they should displace the weight...from what I've read.
 

scrapdaddy

Standing on the corner
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That's how mine were done also. From what I've read, they will be strong enough and you shouldn't do both anyhow. Something about body flex would be a problem if tied to frame.
 

scrapdaddy

Standing on the corner
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wanted to ask about your front fenders. Mine are cut off also and already painted. I don't want to weld tabs on, maybe just button head bolts. What's your idea.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
460
Location
Namby Pamby Land
wanted to ask about your front fenders. Mine are cut off also and already painted. I don't want to weld tabs on, maybe just button head bolts. What's your idea.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/211723-daily-drive-71-55-build-up-4.html#post3919438

See above (not my truck) - great reference for this in Lil'John's thread.

I'm going to be painting, so I'm not too worried about welding the body panels. I plan on welding a piece of angle at the cut line, on the inside, with a couple slots through them to accept welded on bolts or thread from the slider piece. Not sure if that makes sense or not...I'll get some photos when I get'er done.
 

scrapdaddy

Standing on the corner
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Dittmer, Mo.
good idea on the fenders. I remember Lil' John's fix, but I didn't want to screw up my paint job, but with your idea of angle, I could just weld to slider and drill two holes for bolts through the fender. It might not look too bad.
 

bogus one

High Desert Hillbilly
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Joined
Apr 2, 2007
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Knee deep in meteor sh**
good idea on the fenders. I remember Lil' John's fix, but I didn't want to screw up my paint job, but with your idea of angle, I could just weld to slider and drill two holes for bolts through the fender. It might not look too bad.
That's what I did. Welded a piece of 20 ga angle to the slider and used a couple of pan head self tappers
 
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Jun 17, 2011
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Lake Tahoe, California
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