Builds Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build

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Well, that was a waste of an hour

Firestone had my pile on the rack for 20 mins and then the “tech” comes and tells me adjusting the caster on these is very labor intensive and I’d have to leave it overnight. Ummm no!

The journey continues

Clowns. Things like this make me lose hope. Nevermind that we're always paying for "4-wheel" alignment when the rear can't even be adjusted. Just the few adjustment points in front.

Reminds me when I got my previous sports car aligned at the Lexus dealer. Sure it had some aftermarket parts, but the tech had no clue how to work with rod end jam nuts. He would tighten one side and when tightening the other, would untorque the other side. He was fiddling for a good 30 minutes when I just got under and helped myself.

I haven't found a good shop in SD. I generally take it to the Poway Yota dealer and give them my specs to hit. Let me know if you find a better shop.
 
Love the stance and especially the powdercoat on those wheels. Looks killer!

Thanks. Me too!

However, with 400-500s of old parts and tools in the back, it sagged almost an inch. Pic above is full empty with no 3rd row.

I have a set of the OME 2721 progressive that will go in probably sooner than later
 
Clowns. Things like this make me lose hope. Nevermind that we're always paying for "4-wheel" alignment when the rear can't even be adjusted. Just the few adjustment points in front.

Reminds me when I got my previous sports car aligned at the Lexus dealer. Sure it had some aftermarket parts, but the tech had no clue how to work with rod end jam nuts. He would tighten one side and when tightening the other, would untorque the other side. He was fiddling for a good 30 minutes when I just got under and helped myself.

I haven't found a good shop in SD. I generally take it to the Poway Yota dealer and give them my specs to hit. Let me know if you find a better shop.

Yeah.. It’s frustrating

Both Clarence Brown and Bee-Line are awesome and competent alignment shops.

Their hours and appointments make it hard though.

Will try like hell to get it to Clarence ASAP
 
I haven't found a good shop in SD. I generally take it to the Poway Yota dealer and give them my specs to hit. Let me know if you find a better shop.
One of the members of Beach-N-Toys highly recommends Poway Toyota. I believe her boyfriend is a tech there and has a built out desert runner tacoma.
 
I believe her boyfriend is a tech there and has a built out desert runner tacoma.

Based on his poor choice in vehicles, he is not going to touch mine 😜

But thanks

Clarence Brown is the real deal, just need to get it there
 
Thanks. Me too!

However, with 400-500s of old parts and tools in the back, it sagged almost an inch. Pic above is full empty with no 3rd row.

I have a set of the OME 2721 progressive that will go in probably sooner than later
I encountered the same thing on the standard Bilstein springs. More sag than I'd like. Ended up swapping to the HD Bilstein which have been great. But progressives from OME should be great as well.

I'm definitely a little heavier in the rear end though. You got about 3/4" more lift in the rear than I did with the standard load springs. HD rear with a 15mm leveling spacer on driver's side (I think? been a while..) got me to 23.5" center hub to fender.
 
I encountered the same thing on the standard Bilstein springs. More sag than I'd like. Ended up swapping to the HD Bilstein which have been great. But progressives from OME should be great as well.

I'm definitely a little heavier in the rear end though. You got about 3/4" more lift in the rear than I did with the standard load springs. HD rear with a 15mm leveling spacer on driver's side (I think? been a while..) got me to 23.5" center hub to fender.
Thanks. I’m gonna give it some time and see how much settling I get before making any changes
 
I encountered the same thing on the standard Bilstein springs. More sag than I'd like. Ended up swapping to the HD Bilstein which have been great. But progressives from OME should be great as well.

I'm definitely a little heavier in the rear end though. You got about 3/4" more lift in the rear than I did with the standard load springs. HD rear with a 15mm leveling spacer on driver's side (I think? been a while..) got me to 23.5" center hub to fender.
interesting in almost a year and 19,000
miles my Bilsteins measure exactly the same as day of install
 
interesting in almost a year and 19,000
miles my Bilsteins measure exactly the same as day of install
This post has been flagged for #misinformation
 
interesting in almost a year and 19,000
miles my Bilsteins measure exactly the same as day of install
We're talking about sag in the rear under load here. I too have not noticed much settling of the springs all around. 7,000 ish miles in and less than 1/8" difference to when I first installed.
 
We're talking about sag in the rear under load here. I too have not noticed much settling of the springs all around. 7,000 ish miles in and less than 1/8" difference to when I first installed.
Makes sense. Mine has 6-7 people in it routinely.. and its level at that weight.

I definitely will not put the HD springs, as unloaded it is horrendous.
 
Makes sense. Mine has 6-7 people in it routinely.. and its level at that weight.

I definitely will not put the HD springs, as unloaded it is horrendous.
What spring perch are you on up front? With that many people or the equivalent weight I would have quite a bit of rear end sag/negative rake with the standard springs. I'm on 4th perch. LX is a little heavier for sure, but after I did a little nip and tuck with deleting the AHC and rear seats I should be within a hundred lbs or so of a LC.
 
Makes sense. Mine has 6-7 people in it routinely.. and its level at that weight.

I definitely will not put the HD springs, as unloaded it is horrendous.

Have you checked the part number on the actually spring to make 100% sure they didn’t send you the HD by mistake?

I’m more critical than most about ride quality and with no 3rd row and an empty tank, it’s still pretty dang pleasant
 
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Have you checked the part number on the actually spring to make 100% sure they didn’t send you the HD by mistake?

I’m more critical of most about ride quality and with no 3rd row and an empty tank, it’s still pretty dang pleasant
My neighbor has the HD on his. I have his non HD ones.

Yes part numbers are diffferent.

I rode in 9 diff 200 before deciding on Bilsteins. Additionally I rode in 1 HD, and 2 non HD before deciding.

Everybody's needs are different, but HD ain't for me. My butt already has enough action from my prison days, I don't need anymore
 
Discount Tire constantly impresses

Specifically the Clairemont location on Genesee

Got call my 5th tire was in, rolled by on my way home, had it mounted, balanced and all my TPMS programmed in less than 45 mins!

Been a happy customer for 15+ years at this particular location
 
A few people have asked for various part #s

Parts List:

PartPart #Price (Olath Toyota)
Lower Control Arm Right48068-60030303.85
Lower Control Arm Left48069-60030303.85
Upper Control Arm Right48610-60060288.1
Upper Control Arm Left48630-60030288.1
Rear Upper Control Arm Left48710-60150143.95
Rear Upper Control Arm Right48710-60140143.95
Rear Lower Control Arm Same48720-60070184.03
Rear Lower Control Arm Same48720-60070184.03
Stabilzer Link Left48810-60060105.6
Stabilzer Link Right48820-6008291.44
Trackbar48740-60150159.92
Cam Adjuster (2)48.84
Cam Adjuster (2)48190-0C020 (2)65.5
Stabilizer Bushing (Sway Bar) Rear (2)48815-6022121.98
Stabilizer Bushing (Sway Bar) Front (2)48815-6026025.97
Stabilizer Cushion (Sway Bar) Rear (2)48817-6001010.16
DBA Front Rotors (fronts are different for 2016+) (2)DBA4722S257.18
DBA Rear Rotors (2)DBA-42723S204.82
Hawk LTS Pads FrontHWKHB589Y.704121.00
Hawk LTS Pads RearHWKHB590Y.68289.00
 
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I also post my F ups so others learn from my mistakes

Went to get truck aligned at Clarence (to check the clearance) Brown Yesterday and they were unable to do it because of a REALLLY dumb mistake i made.

Had a mofo of a time loosening the LCA bolts with 215k on them, and snapped a large 1/2" breaker bar trying to loosen the nuts.

Sooooo... I have one of the zallion foot lbs Milwaukee cordless impact, which is always last resort.

Couldnt get impact on the nuts, so decided to give the bolt a quick blip, which i 100% knew was a bad idea, but my dumbass did it anyway

FYI, these 2 front adjuster bolts are knurled and press fit onto the adjuster cam (i knew this and simply forgot). If your dumbass whacks them with a powerful impact, the knurl goes bye bye, and you loose ability to adjust anything. They visually looked fine when i put it back together, but under load, they just spin

Had to go to 2 different dealers to get the bolts (which arent cheap), and alignment now rescheduled for Tuesday and im paying extra to have them replace the bolts. Expensive mistake

Moral of the story, dont be a dumbass, and dont use 1200ft/lb impact guns on suspension bits :grinpimp::

LCA-Bolt.jpg
 
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@TeCKis300 and a few others asked about the old bushings and if i was visually able to tell how bad they were.

Just got back to shop and took some pics.

Put each one in the vice and just applied a LITTLE fore and aft pressure:

Note: This was strictly used for just a commuter its entire 215k and never been Offroad.

Swaybar Link:
IMG_7581.jpeg


Rear Upper Arm (yes, that’s a gaping hole):

IMG_7582.jpeg


Rear Lower Arm:


IMG_7583.jpeg


Track Bar (completely split):

IMG_7578.jpeg
 
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Oh yeah, she's done. Another service item into higher miles. Haven't seen much if any information on these and wonder what the carnage looks like on other higher mileage harder used rigs. Towing must put a lot of load on these too.

Thanks for those pics!
 

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