These photos were a little haphazard, let me know if you need more any more detail. First start was tonight!
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- Thread starter
- #382
Thats the missing link, I don't have this pipe. Is that stock from the fzj? I can't remember. Thanks for the pictures BTW.
Yep that was part of the original 1FZ setup, I didn’t alter anything there.
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- #384
s***, time to search the garage. Thanks!
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- #385
C ya later, thank you for the sacrifice. 
it was for a good cause
I know this one all too well :-/
AKA 140 Series?
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- #389
Exactly! I let the 1fz-fe go to a good home. Better than it sitting in my garage forever. I did promise my wife that I wouldnt hog the garage over winter.
Its easy for me to find an excuse on keeping something, especially if its truck/car/engine related.
Since I'm going to yank my rear heater setup, do you still need this pipe? If I ever run soft lines for the rear heater in case I want it back, I won't use this pipe, as it's too close to the intake manifold for my taste. You can have it if needed.
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- #391
Thanks man! I actually found one for 40 bucks should be here this week. I appreciate you letting me know though.
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- #392
Well ive had suspicion that my thermostat is either stuck open, or its been removed. Got a new one on the way.
I took her out for a very spirited run on the interstate, max temperature she got to was 170.
The engine also has a hard time warming up in the morning, and basically doesnt reach a normal operating temperature unless under a lot of load.
So we'll see, hoping to get her fixed up before Moab in a few weeks.
I took her out for a very spirited run on the interstate, max temperature she got to was 170.
The engine also has a hard time warming up in the morning, and basically doesnt reach a normal operating temperature unless under a lot of load.
So we'll see, hoping to get her fixed up before Moab in a few weeks.
New thermostat is a good idea but direct injection diesels are very efficient with lots of air moving though them at idle so they do take a long time to warm up or sometimes wont even warm up at all. Mercedes and VW put electric heaters in their direct injected diesel cars to help get the heater working quicker for this reason. Pretty sure the 200 series has it too even with a gas motor.
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- #394
Do you think the temperature being around 160 while driving around town is hard on the motor? That's really my biggest concern, sure the heat sucks, but that's also because I need to pull the dash, re-do all the seals, and fix one of the actuators that controls fresh air/ recirculate blend door. I know I'm getting fresh air coming in and that's just making it worse. The front heater has never been great even with the 1fz, so the rear heater made up for that during the winter.
No not really but 185 would be better. How are you measuring it? do you have the temp gauge mod? ohm the sensor?
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- #396
I have a 3 in 1 glow shift gauge, I drilled and tapped the upper coolant outlet that connects to the head added a sensor there. I've also checked with an IR Thermometer. They are within 5-10 degrees of each other. Dummy gauge in the cluster is in it's typical spot lol.
That's probably a slightly cooler spot in the system then the factory senor. Hopefully the thermostat does the trick, I think reading though parts pages there was an optional shudder system to go cover up the radiator partially for cold weather market. Some people put cardboard in front to of the radiator. big trucks have grill covers for this reason. My modded temp gauge is staying at about 40% with it being 45 degrees out (same as when it was 75) and heat working good after it finally warms up.
I was gonna suggest blocking part of the radiator through winter if the T-stat swap didn’t fix it.
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- #399
Wow, I never wouldve known about a radiator shutter.
Still available on Amayama. Many UK 80s had them fitted - mine all did. Also great for water crossings!