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I hate to ask this, but can you link me to the post with your pictures of where the rear wires should be in the harness? I would like to correct this issue in my truck if possible.
Also thinking about adding a powered sub because the factory sub is not getting it done. I would be curious to see what others have done in conjunction with the Teyes and factory amp.
Thanks for linking that! I pulled out my unit and confirmed the wires the need to be moved as described in your post. I tried fiddling with the connector but can't figure out how to free the pins. What is the trick to getting them out?I was able to fix the rear speakers and sub not working. For details on the problem, check this post. Here's the solution:
Move pin G13 to G12. That's the white wire with a black stripe.
Move pin G9 to G14. That's the grey wire with a black stripe.
The original harness looks like this:
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You want to modify it to look like this:
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After that, the rear speakers and sub are working perfectly and all speakers have full volume.
I used a cheap pin removal tool from Amazon. They only cost a few bucks and make it 10x easier!Thanks for linking that! I pulled out my unit and confirmed the wires the need to be moved as described in your post. I tried fiddling with the connector but can't figure out how to free the pins. What is the trick to getting them out?
Where do you insert the pin removal tool? Front? Back? Little holes in the front above the actual pin holes?I used a cheap pin removal tool from Amazon. They only cost a few bucks and make it 10x easier!
It goes in the back if i remember. In the same hole as the wire. It took a bit of fiddling so easier to do with the harness out of the truck, but that's a pain too.Where do you insert the pin removal tool? Front? Back? Little holes in the front above the actual pin holes?
That's the part I'm struggling with.
Okay good to know. I have a bunch of random dental tools (I'm not a dentist) that come in handy for stuff like this. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.It goes in the back if i remember. In the same hole as the wire. It took a bit of fiddling so easier to do with the harness out of the truck, but that's a pain too.
Yep. Getting them back in is super easy. They just click in.Okay good to know. I have a bunch of random dental tools (I'm not a dentist) that come in handy for stuff like this. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
Once I get the pins out do they just press back into the correct sockets?
That seems to be the only way for the LCHello all!
I've read most of this thread off/on for the last 9 months (lol) and was wondering if anyone has found a fix for the buzzing noise on a 2007 LC? Last I saw, amp replacement was the only solution? Has there been any new fixes?
Thanks!
Well now I seem to have really screwed things up. I was trying to get the pins loose but didn't have any success and now that I've put it back together I have intermittent sound on the left side. I'm guessing I did more harm than good when trying to get one of the pins loose and now one of the connections is funky. I can get it to come back briefly if I reach behind the head unit and jiggle the harness but it goes out as soon as I let go. Any chance you can give me some pointers or if you're in the Denver area and can give me a hand with the pins?Yep. Getting them back in is super easy. They just click in.
I'm in San Diego so can't help directly.Well now I seem to have really screwed things up. I was trying to get the pins loose but didn't have any success and now that I've put it back together I have intermittent sound on the left side. I'm guessing I did more harm than good when trying to get one of the pins loose and now one of the connections is funky. I can get it to come back briefly if I reach behind the head unit and jiggle the harness but it goes out as soon as I let go. Any chance you can give me some pointers or if you're in the Denver area and can give me a hand with the pins?
I think you probably right. Is this along the lines of what you used?I'm in San Diego so can't help directly.
I'd suggest getting a magnifying glass and looking at the pins and understanding how they work. How they clip into the plastic plug.
I suspect you damaged one of them by smashing the part that holds it into the plug. You might be able to pry it up gently to reshape it so it secures itself in the plug.
This requires removing the pins again and it might be a good idea to get the right pin removal tools to minimize the chance of further damage (and to make your life less frustrating). The pin removal tools aren't expensive.
Yep!I think you probably right. Is this along the lines of what you used?
Ordered! I might post some pictures with questions later in the week. It was a pain trying to get those connectors out and I never succeeded. I could never figure where to apply pressure (front/back/above wire/below wire). Hoping the new tools make it easier.Yep!
Do you know if it is totally failing to connect or is the issue related to the Carplay/Android Auto app? The reason I ask is that my phone (Pixel 9) reliably connects to the head unit but it frequently has issues with the Carlink app. When this happens I have to go to settings and force stop the app, then once I restart the app it works every time.So I've had the CC3 for a couple of months now. My chief complaint is the difficulty I have in connecting my phone via bluetooth.
1. It never connects automatically.
2. One day it might connect the first time I try to pair my phone, other days it may take 5-6 tries before it connects.
At this point I have tried every variable I can think of. Does anyone else have this issue, and did you figure out a solution.
Alright I think I am good to go. You were correct, having those tools made removing the pins super easy. I was able to get everything located in the correct slots and tighten up the connections. The quality of the sound is much better now.Yep!
Not sure if you've tried this, but usually when mine is having issues starting up I hit the square toggle button on the top pull down menu that displays the running apps in a carousel. Then you can swipe the carlink app up. That seems to stop the process and restart it. Only a couple quick clicks. Marginally better than going all the way settings.Do you know if it is totally failing to connect or is the issue related to the Carplay/Android Auto app? The reason I ask is that my phone (Pixel 9) reliably connects to the head unit but it frequently has issues with the Carlink app. When this happens I have to go to settings and force stop the app, then once I restart the app it works every time.
I wish there was a quick way to go through this sequence instead of fumbling through the menus to initiate the force stop.