- Thread starter
- #801
I grabbed this with the driver's tire stuffed. This rock used to feel kind of tall but it looks unimpressive now. But you can see how the flex is more balanced that before:
Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (1 Viewer)
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I grabbed this with the driver's tire stuffed. This rock used to feel kind of tall but it looks unimpressive now. But you can see how the flex is more balanced that before:
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- #802
They are at this point. It will probably be a "phase" in the plan now. So, for the next phase, I want to get some "Overlandy" type stuff ready so we can explore the Great North Woods in Maine... so roofrack, roof top tent or trailer, basic living type stuff. After that, I'd like to come back to this subject and look at moving axle forward 1", bumpstops, regear (tcase or axles), etc. I think that whole thing will be a big block of work.
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- #803
The family and I went out on a little adventure over the weekend. We went a little east of Lake Winnipesaukee, up one of the "mountains" out here. (only 2,000 feet or so) The trip reminded me of when we lived in Colorado because we got some good wheeling in and had a scenic overlook for lunch at the end! (We were even in pine trees rather than maple/oak as we climbed the hill) Amazingly, this was the first time that we had a family picnic on the tailgate.
Here's a short video of the terrain climbing up. As usual, you can tell how steep it is in the video.
Here's what it looked like at the top. I want to go back with a little grill next time.
From there, we climbed back down the hill and headed back to the cabin.
It was one of those days were I got just enough wheeling in for me and the family had a lot of fun and adventure. I'll be going back up there again soon.... probably with a couple other trails mixed in.
Here's a short video of the terrain climbing up. As usual, you can tell how steep it is in the video.
Here's what it looked like at the top. I want to go back with a little grill next time.
From there, we climbed back down the hill and headed back to the cabin.
It was one of those days were I got just enough wheeling in for me and the family had a lot of fun and adventure. I'll be going back up there again soon.... probably with a couple other trails mixed in.
Let me know when you are going back, we will join you!
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- #805
Game on! I'll shoot you a text the next time we plan to get out.
Tailgate picnics are the best!
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
Looks good, bro. G,ad you like how it turned out!
- Thread starter
- #808
My fridge kept kicking off at night. I traced the power wire back into the engine bay... to the starter solenoid. The connection felt loose. When I tried to tighten it, the terminal came of in my hand.
To my surprise, there were 8 wires connected to that terminal... one of which was the outlet for the fridge. I could tell that the wires were side loading the terminal. My guess is that the plastic body had cracked, causing a poor connection, which caused the fridge to kick the ER1 code. (See the burn marks)
I removed the solenoid and found it to be a Motorcraft (Ford) unit. A little searching lead me to a starter solenoid for a 1994 Ford F350.
I ordered one from a local OReilly and decided to get wires I knew weren't supposed to be on the solenoid... off the solenoid. As you all know, I am scared of electricity. So, I invited a friend over to help.
I had a blue sea fuse block that I had been meaning to use so, we ended up with this:
The fridge ran well all night in an 80 degree garage. I measured the battery voltage this morning and I was at 12.4 volts.
Oh, I also got a jack adapter from Land Cruiser Phil in the mail. This sits on top of the stock bottle jack so and fits the axle... kind of a nice safety mechanism to keep the axle from sliding off the jack. I like the zinc-y goodness.
That's all I have to report as of today!
To my surprise, there were 8 wires connected to that terminal... one of which was the outlet for the fridge. I could tell that the wires were side loading the terminal. My guess is that the plastic body had cracked, causing a poor connection, which caused the fridge to kick the ER1 code. (See the burn marks)
I removed the solenoid and found it to be a Motorcraft (Ford) unit. A little searching lead me to a starter solenoid for a 1994 Ford F350.
I ordered one from a local OReilly and decided to get wires I knew weren't supposed to be on the solenoid... off the solenoid. As you all know, I am scared of electricity. So, I invited a friend over to help.
I had a blue sea fuse block that I had been meaning to use so, we ended up with this:
The fridge ran well all night in an 80 degree garage. I measured the battery voltage this morning and I was at 12.4 volts.
Oh, I also got a jack adapter from Land Cruiser Phil in the mail. This sits on top of the stock bottle jack so and fits the axle... kind of a nice safety mechanism to keep the axle from sliding off the jack. I like the zinc-y goodness.
That's all I have to report as of today!
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- Thread starter
- #809
I got a spotter and climbed my test rock as high as I could... got a little higher than last time. I think I'm seeing better front flex than I could have seen with stock radius arms:
I grabbed this with the driver's tire stuffed. This rock used to feel kind of tall but it looks unimpressive now. But you can see how the flex is more balanced that before: Good stuff here Lumpskie, Can you summarize what you did, rear spring before & after what front springs your running. With just one new super arm does it flex more one one side then the other.
Thanks Broski
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- #811
Thanks @Broski . The changes I made were:
1. I swapped my rear intermediate Slinky springs out for heavies.
2. I installed a single "stock height" Superflex arm. I installed the superflex plates just outside the Landtank caster places that I already had installed. The only modification I had to make was to get some thick washers/spacers to put inside the superflex plates in the top mounting position (to account for the added width of the landtank plates down below). I also had to get longer hardware. The end result was that I kept identical caster and now swap back to a stock arm if I ever want to.
I'm glad you can see the difference in the pictures. From the driver's seat, it is very noticeable,
1. I swapped my rear intermediate Slinky springs out for heavies.
2. I installed a single "stock height" Superflex arm. I installed the superflex plates just outside the Landtank caster places that I already had installed. The only modification I had to make was to get some thick washers/spacers to put inside the superflex plates in the top mounting position (to account for the added width of the landtank plates down below). I also had to get longer hardware. The end result was that I kept identical caster and now swap back to a stock arm if I ever want to.
I'm glad you can see the difference in the pictures. From the driver's seat, it is very noticeable,
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- #812
So, the powder coat on my bumper is flaking off. I contacted the powdercoater and they are willing to cut me a break on price to have it redone. I'm considering going darker in color... matching the rear bumper. As you guys know, I'm horrible with aesthetics for rigs. What do you think? Would a dark gray look good?
Also...
Before I do that, I figured I might as well drill it and put a light bar on it. My Rigid D2s are great in close to medium range, so I'm looking for something longer range. A friend of mine told me about Diode Dynamics. It seems like they have some decent quality products for cheap. And the 18" light bar that they have intrigues me because it is single row (won't block any of my intercooler), the lenses can be swapped and, if you buy a an amber setup, they use 4000k LEDs. For a little more than $200, I'm considering getting an amber Stage Series 18" bar and swapping the center lens (or all lenses) to clear.
My buddy had a pair of SS6 lights, that I used to stage what an 18" bar would look like. I like that the lights shouldn't block any of my intercooler or radiator area:
Do you guys have any experience with Diode Dynamics? What do you think?
Here's an example showing an amber bar with the center being a flood lense and the outer lenses being the "wide" pattern.
Also...
Before I do that, I figured I might as well drill it and put a light bar on it. My Rigid D2s are great in close to medium range, so I'm looking for something longer range. A friend of mine told me about Diode Dynamics. It seems like they have some decent quality products for cheap. And the 18" light bar that they have intrigues me because it is single row (won't block any of my intercooler), the lenses can be swapped and, if you buy a an amber setup, they use 4000k LEDs. For a little more than $200, I'm considering getting an amber Stage Series 18" bar and swapping the center lens (or all lenses) to clear.
My buddy had a pair of SS6 lights, that I used to stage what an 18" bar would look like. I like that the lights shouldn't block any of my intercooler or radiator area:
Do you guys have any experience with Diode Dynamics? What do you think?
Here's an example showing an amber bar with the center being a flood lense and the outer lenses being the "wide" pattern.
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I've got the Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro SAE fogs in yellow on the wife's 5th gen 4Runner, they are seriously impressive, and very well focused. They are so bright I feel guilty running them with oncoming traffic, but I've only been flashed a couple times in 6 months with them as the light is directed down with very little scatter up into driver's eyes, they light up the ditches like daytime.
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- #814
I'm glad to hear you like your DD SS3 Pros! I have heard that those SS3 Pros are insanely bright... it almost makes me want to mount a couple of them to my bumper. But, the low profile of the SS18 will put my mind at rest that I am not obstructing any of the intercooler/trans cooler/radiator.
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- #815
Did a quick test last night, comparing my Rigid D2 driving pattern with a Diode Dynamics SS6, also driving pattern.
Here's my D2:
Here's the DD next to it... soooo bright.
I really like the pattern because I would have 3 of those 6" light together essentially. The only thing I don't really like is the "cool" 6000k color of LEDs. I just like the more yellow color of incandescent lights. It seems easier on my eyes. So, I ordered the 18" DD bar in Amber color. It uses 4000k LEDs. I also ordered clear lenses for the bar, so I could go yellow or 4000k color. We'll see how I like the setup, when it comes.
Now, here's the interesting part. My buddy also had an SS3 pod light. Man, that light looks pretty cool. (probably cooler than the light bar that I ordered...) See it on the left here:
The pattern is a little taller:
Here's a long distance test... those DD lights really throw light far:
I really like the look of those SS3 pods... I almost want to change my order. There will be a little less total output from the SS3 sport, but there would be more output if I got the Pro version... What do you guys think?
Here's my D2:
Here's the DD next to it... soooo bright.
I really like the pattern because I would have 3 of those 6" light together essentially. The only thing I don't really like is the "cool" 6000k color of LEDs. I just like the more yellow color of incandescent lights. It seems easier on my eyes. So, I ordered the 18" DD bar in Amber color. It uses 4000k LEDs. I also ordered clear lenses for the bar, so I could go yellow or 4000k color. We'll see how I like the setup, when it comes.
Now, here's the interesting part. My buddy also had an SS3 pod light. Man, that light looks pretty cool. (probably cooler than the light bar that I ordered...) See it on the left here:
The pattern is a little taller:
Here's a long distance test... those DD lights really throw light far:
I really like the look of those SS3 pods... I almost want to change my order. There will be a little less total output from the SS3 sport, but there would be more output if I got the Pro version... What do you guys think?
Pro all the way, they are crazy bright, and in the SAE fog lense the light pattern is about 50% taller than the Sport (beam pattern is short and WIDE either way for the SAE fogs, but a taller pattern for the Pro's).
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- #817
Man, I saw this just a liiitle too late. The Stage Series 18" bar just shipped out. I ended up with an amber colored 18" bar and I ordered white lenses so I could get a 4000k color. It won't have the output of the SS3 Pros but it should be brighter than the sports (just because it has 18 LEDs rather than 8).
All of the options really seem to outshine my Rigid D2 driving lights, so I'll probably be happy. (hopefully, I don't regret not going pros instead of the bar)
Here's the 4000k color:
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- #818
Got a package in the mail!
Here's what the bar looks like:
Set it on my rig, just to see:
Here are the clear lenses that I'll probably run for summer months (I'll probably run the yellow lenses in the winter so I can use the bar in the snow)
Here's what the bar looks like:
Set it on my rig, just to see:
Here are the clear lenses that I'll probably run for summer months (I'll probably run the yellow lenses in the winter so I can use the bar in the snow)
- Thread starter
- #819
I got the bar on yesterday. I didn't get too many pictures because, as it turns out, this is the absolutely widest bar you can put onto a Costa Fabrications bumper. The mounting holes just barely fit between the recovery pockets in the bumper. It was so close that a nut wouldn't fit. So we tapped the holes. Here it is:
Here's the beam pattern. (you can see the single fog pattern on the sides... you can also see that the 2 spots focus on the same point)
With the rigids on high
I'll get better pictures later on today.
Here's the beam pattern. (you can see the single fog pattern on the sides... you can also see that the 2 spots focus on the same point)
With the rigids on high
I'll get better pictures later on today.
- Thread starter
- #820
Here are some light test pictures.
Long Distance test:
Headlight only:
Headlights with Rigid D2s on high
All lights, including bar, on high (note the extra light both at distance and out to the sides from the center fog lens)
Test 2 - Close quarters or wooded
Headlight only
Headlight with Rigid D2s on high
Headlight, Rigid D2s on high, light bar on (camera dimmed its settings a bit... not the overall light color change)
Overall, I think this is a really good bar. Even with the amber color, it puts out a lot of light at a good distance. Here's what it look like on the Cruiser:
Long Distance test:
Headlight only:
Headlights with Rigid D2s on high
All lights, including bar, on high (note the extra light both at distance and out to the sides from the center fog lens)
Test 2 - Close quarters or wooded
Headlight only
Headlight with Rigid D2s on high
Headlight, Rigid D2s on high, light bar on (camera dimmed its settings a bit... not the overall light color change)
Overall, I think this is a really good bar. Even with the amber color, it puts out a lot of light at a good distance. Here's what it look like on the Cruiser:
