nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I think @TeCKis300 has a good setup for that. I picked a wheel I liked and cut more lol
Long Travel AHC
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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I think @TeCKis300 has a good setup for that. I picked a wheel I liked and cut more lol
Cool, I'll check out his threads...appreciate it. I'm planning to have custom wheels made, but only want to do it once, of course.
Cool, I'll check out his threads...appreciate it. I'm planning to have custom wheels made, but only want to do it once, of course.
Stock on 31s, then 33s, 35s, and now what feels like build v37 of Flexus on 37s. Can't leave well enough alone and it's an itch that must be scratched.
Previous build on 35s - Builds - TeCKis300 LX570 "FLX" Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/teckis300-lx570-flx-build.1260158/#post-13989513
Previous build on 33s - LX570 Slammed on 33's - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-slammed-on-33s.975670/#post-10874074
The goal of v37 continues an attempt to remain faithful to the Land Cruiser (LX?) spirit as mother Toyota (Lexus?) intended - a do everything...
Previous build on 35s - Builds - TeCKis300 LX570 "FLX" Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/teckis300-lx570-flx-build.1260158/#post-13989513
Previous build on 33s - LX570 Slammed on 33's - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-slammed-on-33s.975670/#post-10874074
The goal of v37 continues an attempt to remain faithful to the Land Cruiser (LX?) spirit as mother Toyota (Lexus?) intended - a do everything...
- Thread starter
- #684
+28mm offset is optimal IMO. It's a fine tightrope for 37sx12.5s, where you'll need a 1" body lift, fender roll, AND pull the front fenders. But also using all the room possible inside with some modifications to the UCA and sway bar. Done as per the build thread (in my signature), this setup will mob with full use of the suspension.
For 11.5" wide tires, I'd recommend the same +28mm offset, which will be an easier fit potentially negating the fender pull and UCA and sway bar mods.
- Thread starter
- #685
Stock is best.
A potential compromise with too much coil spacer if you're not carrying anymore weight is that AHC low may not fully lower in the rear.
First post of 2026 near the end of Feb on this thread? Wow. 
Annyhow, has anyone tried to cut a slot and bolt notch in the oem 10mm spacers to install without having to depressurize the “shock”?
Like remove all but 1 nuts, take that nut to the last thread of bolt on top of nut, tilt the whole shibbang back or forward (whichever has more tilt room), slip in spacer, bolt it all back, torque and witness mark….maybe?
I have a set of oem 10mm spacers and a set of E&E 13mm spacers. But wanted to just quickly ask before experimenting on my supply.
Annyhow, has anyone tried to cut a slot and bolt notch in the oem 10mm spacers to install without having to depressurize the “shock”?
Like remove all but 1 nuts, take that nut to the last thread of bolt on top of nut, tilt the whole shibbang back or forward (whichever has more tilt room), slip in spacer, bolt it all back, torque and witness mark….maybe?
I have a set of oem 10mm spacers and a set of E&E 13mm spacers. But wanted to just quickly ask before experimenting on my supply.
I always wondered about why they don't make a 2-piece spacer that slides together and stacks on one another, or one into another, then is just held together with a recessed allen head screw. Never gave it heavy thought, but seems plausible off the top of my head.First post of 2026 near the end of Feb on this thread? Wow.
Annyhow, has anyone tried to cut a slot and bolt notch in the oem 10mm spacers to install without having to depressurize the “shock”?
Like remove all but 1 nuts, take that nut to the last thread of bolt on top of nut, tilt the whole shibbang back or forward (whichever has more tilt room), slip in spacer, bolt it all back, torque and witness mark….maybe?
I have a set of oem 10mm spacers and a set of E&E 13mm spacers. But wanted to just quickly ask before experimenting on my supply.
There's just not enough room to make this happen. I though about this a lot, but after disassembling, I'd say there's no likely way to make it work. You are going to have to remove the hydraulic line because the spacer sits in a "bucket" at the top of the coil/shock assembly.First post of 2026 near the end of Feb on this thread? Wow.
Annyhow, has anyone tried to cut a slot and bolt notch in the oem 10mm spacers to install without having to depressurize the “shock”?
Like remove all but 1 nuts, take that nut to the last thread of bolt on top of nut, tilt the whole shibbang back or forward (whichever has more tilt room), slip in spacer, bolt it all back, torque and witness mark….maybe?
I have a set of oem 10mm spacers and a set of E&E 13mm spacers. But wanted to just quickly ask before experimenting on my supply.
And in the spirit of innovation, feel free to prove me wrong
With respect to removing the hydraulic line, it's a minor procedure in the scheme of fitting the spacers.
Trying to follow a video by A1Hasan Khan on YouTube for an alternative way to popping UCA BJ.
Of course bleed from accumulator before, rather than just bust the nut and spray everywhere.
hopefully this is going to take all night coz we have an engine and transmission to put in my neighbor’s Apache tomorrow
Of course bleed from accumulator before, rather than just bust the nut and spray everywhere.
hopefully this is going to take all night coz we have an engine and transmission to put in my neighbor’s Apache tomorrow
Beer break # 1
Had it on normal, engine off, lift, then drain on both sides. About 1 quart total came out of accumulators.
From the shock, I was ready for a water cannon at the water park, but it was only 1 pressure squirt that was very controllable by keeping downward pressure as needed on the fitting after the 12mm bolts were off. Maybe 1 cup worth, didn’t even saturate one sheet of pig mat.
One side done, this is looking like a 4hr job both sides easy! Phew.
Ps, pic attached shows the threads on shock with E&E 13mm spacer. I was a tad bit generous on blue lock tite. And a pass through socket set is definitely worth it for this job.
Nice work!!
Odd that it didn’t any squirt of pressure on driver side, maybe all the pressure gets released on the first one in the front (which was passenger for me)?
Nonetheless, job done and waiting on alignment booked 2 days out.
That lower ball joint to knuckle bolts torque to 221ft.lbs feels like a full body workout.
Nonetheless, job done and waiting on alignment booked 2 days out.
That lower ball joint to knuckle bolts torque to 221ft.lbs feels like a full body workout.