LC parking brake

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 6, 2004
Threads
2
Messages
34
Location
Central OR
Does anyone besides Manafree make a disk brake conversion for the transfer mounted parking brake? their price is just a lill spendy....I think around 900$ last time I checked. I can think of a lot of other places I could spend 900$ on my pig with a hell of a lot more enjoyment.
 
do a search as I remember someone custom making one that worked pretty slick, maybe 6 months ago.
 
The transfer brake is really not all that bad if you disassemble, clean and replace parts as needed. Good thing to in tandem with a u joint replacement or clutch work.

Kind of like rear drums, have to keep it in good working order.

Just my .02.
 
does anyone know what you have o do to tighten the brake.
 
camcruiser13 said:
does anyone know what you have o do to tighten the brake.
There is a 10mm adjusting nut on the back side of the brake drum. The cable length can be be adjusted at the hand lever on some models.

The best thing I have done to improve my parking brake was to install Mudrak's double oil seal flange. It prevents the leak from the transfer case that soaks the brake shoes of the parking drum. The stock brake works great when it is clean and dry.


dual_seal-2.jpg
 
i got a 76 can i adjust it on the lever, i should just go look but im lazy. thanx shipwreck
 
peesalot said:
just bought the man a fre and it was like 395.00. it aint all that. I found my properly set drum one was o.k.. just want to try this one , I'll post up the install.

Yeah, but didn't you have to give them your old drum on top of that 4 bills?
 
A guy around here managed to modify a go-cart disc brake to work. Radd has seen it, I haven't. A disc could be pinched between the output flange and the d/s flange. I thought about machining the drum to make a disc and then fit on some sort of caliper. Never really looked into it though. Don't know if the drum is even big enough. What ever you put there, oil will wreck it.
 
Unless they changed the bracket that held the caliper I'd consider looking at alternatives. It doesn't hold the caliper square on the disk so it wears funny and rattles. Not that a 40 is quiet, but for $300 I would have expected a better bracket. My kit was purchased about 5 yrs ago and I took the caliper off the bracket and ran line locks shortly after.
 
Bret said:
I took the caliper off the bracket and ran line locks shortly after.

Sorry to hijack...But is a line lock TLCA approved? If it is, I would look into it myself. I know it just needs to stall in 2nd with the P-brakes on.
Thanks
 
Shipwreck said:
There is a 10mm adjusting nut on the back side of the brake drum. The cable length can be be adjusted at the hand lever on some models.

The best thing I have done to improve my parking brake was to install Mudrak's double oil seal flange. It prevents the leak from the transfer case that soaks the brake shoes of the parking drum. The stock brake works great when it is clean and dry.


dual_seal-2.jpg


Where do you get the Mudrak part? Thanks
 
Hey Bret , I agree that the caliper holding ears look cheesy and the slot in the caliper body where they float is machined about as good as my ass crack . This may go up for raffle donation prize . Curious , did it get hot from riding on the disc ?
 
Peesalot- I don't think so. The rotor never showed any signs of heat. The pads seemed to wear just from the caliper "leaning" into the rotor. So there was never any significant heat built up. But the brake did work when adjusted and engaged. I am getting ready to put my H55-split in and I was fortunate enough for it to arrive with a parking drum attached so I can goto TLCA sanctioned events (someday) . I am going to try to make a pin to go through the original bracket to locate the caliper better and use it for a buddies '78.
 
Back
Top Bottom