Builds Keeping another on the road- My Blue 1986 FJ60 Build (1 Viewer)

[Willard]

Other thing to remember is that you are comparing a "classic 4x4" which is a very niche market to a "classic muscle car" which is not. These are two very different markets, both volatile in their own manner however the main difference that I have seen, is that with muscle cars every Tom, Dick and Harry knows what a Chevelle, Mustang, Charger/Challenger, etc. from the muscle car eras looks like. These are then considered "vintage" and "cool" things to own regardless of their usage.

This is a very good point. When I sold the Chevelle, it took 2 weeks (that simply was due to weeding out the dreamers) and a ton of interest.
I priced it fairly and it sold fast. I did not lose money on it at all. It was sold due to personal reasons (not money related, or anything like that) that I will not discuss in an open forum.
Like you said, everyone knew what it was and the market is massive for this. Hell you can build an entire car from a catalog and have a brand new repoped version of it. The market is that big.

If the purpose of the 60 was simply to enjoy it then that is your ROI and ratings base. If you no longer get those "smiles per gallon" then it is time to invest in something else and let her go. However, if those "smiles per gallon" are still present then the contemplation of ditching her should be something that is much, MUCH more highly evaluated. This is more about a relationship, it seems to be, based on what you have stated and the "heart" you have put into your truck, that the relationship between you and your 60 is much stronger than that of the Chevelle. That is something else to consider.

The Smiles per gallon are there that is without a doubt. I like the 60 and like I said I build it with a lot of thought involved into what "I" wanted. somethings changed during the build and parts were sold off, but ultimately it was exactly what I wanted.
I have had more time to think and the ride is not finished yet.
My now 11 year old son wants to keep it and he wants it. As does his brother. I think at this point I will get them more involved in what needs to be finished on it.

I am looking at it like this now (and it is a huge excuse). That ride I may be able to sell for 10-14K (if painted). That means it owes me 8K at least.
Based on AAA the average cost to owning a vehicle per year is $8800 based on 15K driven per year. Now they have some magic calculator there I am telling you. My 2007 F150 and my wife's 2004 Yukon, gas not included cost me about 1000 per year on average over 5 years.
Now that is saying one year I may spend 1000 for new tires and the next nothing.

So working that out, my FJ60 owes me 8 more years, I will give it a 2 year pass, so 6 years.
What does that mean? In 6 years I will sell it. Might be only for $1 to my son but I will sell it then.


Thank you everyone for your comments and thoughts, it has been a rough few weeks on many levels. It is good to see a community such as this putting things into perspective and bringing sense into what was otherwise a grey area.


Now enough of this talk......It is going back into the Garage this weekend to finish the rust and clean up a few things.
I will also be tearing apart the front axle so I can get the third out as I wanted to rebuild it.
The new goal is to enjoy the hell out of it for the next years and pass on a solid vehicle to my son.

 

[gregnash]

Good on you for giving it a few more years, If nothing else until your son(s) can drive it and then get yourself something else to play with.
One thing I do see in your writing is that you always state how much you "like" the vehicle. That there may be the root of the problem, obviously something is missing that moves that from "like" to "love".

So maybe it is time to do some "soul searching" to figure out what that is as that may be the factor that is truly getting full commitment from you. That could be something as simple as the fact that you want it to be XYZ color but there are enough other things to get to that point that need to be taken care of that you feel like the list is never ending (ye olde "Can't see the light at the end of the tunnel" syndrome).

But I understand about everything you are talking about, I have gone through phases like this where I miss the creature comforts of newer vehicles, the ability to just start and go, etc. However, I have recently taken a stance that I am getting those things taken care of and really starting to move forward with the truck. Hell, I have been pushing hard the last month to get body work finished (something I have been dreading and pushing off for years) so that I can paint before it gets too cold to do so. This has culminated in me working 10s this week so I can have Friday off to finish the last bit of body prep, last bit of priming and then Friday/Saturday throw down color!!!

 

[Willard]

Ya the like to love think may happen once I can drive it more often. I have a few little things I really want to fix first.

The problem is right there in a nutshell. Always something to do. Fortunately the list is small (even though I just added to it) that I figure it will actually be done in 2 months based on my timeline and if I get my ass in gear.
The biggest tasks have been done and it drives down the road, and real well to. With that I have found some minor things to fix, like the E-Brake need further adjustment and the rear seat latch needs to be adjusted. Both minor things.
Some small wiring cleanup, that is more my OCD side.

I need to get my KLR650 cleaned up first and ready for sale. Then I can actually start working on the 60 again full force. I figure the KLR should be done by Saturday as it needs very little to be cleaned up. It was winterized last year and stored. I need to drain the oil, change it and start it, clean off the spider webs and make it look presentable.

Then the 60 gets the garage for two months while I finish the small details. I will post pictures of my crappy welds.

So I agree it may be a phase that I went though, and the sticker shock of seeing how much I spent in comparison to something that has everything available either new or repop.

In the end I bought the 60 to get away from the creature comforts and I am a huge advocate for the simplicity of it.

 

[Willard]

After my little fall from grace with my spending reality check, The 60 is staying and work commences.
All right back to working on the 60.

I picked up some parts for the H55f install. Next I will be picking up the transfercase rebuild kit from Cruiser brothers

@beno , thanks for the wrench!
@lynchmob thanks for the H55f and the transfercase.


When I got the H55f Lynchmob also sold me the transfercase that was attached, This way I can rebuild the case at my leisure without having the 60 down.
I plan to start this in the next 2 weeks and will be taking as many pictures as possible, so stay tuned.
Here are two to keep you going.

 

[OGBeno]

Awesome. Can't wait to see the install Dave!

 

[Willard]

What is next after the H55f.

Finish the rust on the passengers side. Paint the hood blue (it is black now)
Next....well I need to clean up the Maggiolina Extreme to get it mounted.
Install the tiedowns in the rear
Still dreaming about fuel injecting the 2F, but it is running so well now......
Next will be the cargo area and building a platform and drawer system.

The new goal is build this for my kids and make it awesome. $$ at this point are spent and I want it to be a solid vehicle for them, so if it needs it it is getting it.

 

[Willard]

So I was digging through my parts at home and decided to pull out the header I bought some time back. I have been thinking about converting to fuel injection using the Holley Sniper kit. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my carb at all and it may just stay, to say the least that battle is been going on for a year. I have been thinking of putting the header on since

1. I have it and
2. why the hell not.
3. seems my OEM manifold is leaking every so slightly.

Here is a shot of the header the question I have it. It has been sand blasted already but could use a quick blast for a few missed spots and the spill of the penetrating oil to get the old smog port off

I initially thought that was an o2 port, but after looking at an old Downey catalog, it is the port for the smog.


The question is how should I coat it? .
Options;
1. Send it out to be ceramic coated
2. Just blast with heat resistant paint
3. Wrap it
4. something else?

Fuel injection battle is one I have to make a decision on. Do I want to keep the carb and deal with the hard starts after a few days, but have the simplicity of the fix anywhere vehicle? OR; Go EFI and have the ability to go anywhere without the need for a oxygen tank, and solid starts every time. But I would be giving up the simplicity and need to carry a ton of spares.

 

[gregnash]

So I was digging through my parts at home and decided to pull out the header I bought some time back. I have been thinking about converting to fuel injection using the Holley Sniper kit. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my carb at all and it may just stay, to say the least that battle is been going on for a year. I have been thinking of putting the header on since

1. I have it and
2. why the hell not.
3. seems my OEM manifold is leaking every so slightly.

Here is a shot of the header the question I have it. It has been sand blasted already but could use a quick blast for a few missed spots and the spill of the penetrating oil to get the old smog port off

I initially thought that was an o2 port, but after looking at an old Downey catalog, it is the port for the smog.


The question is how should I coat it? .
Options;
1. Send it out to be ceramic coated
2. Just blast with heat resistant paint
3. Wrap it
4. something else?

Fuel injection battle is one I have to make a decision on. Do I want to keep the carb and deal with the hard starts after a few days, but have the simplicity of the fix anywhere vehicle? OR; Go EFI and have the ability to go anywhere without the need for a oxygen tank, and solid starts every time. But I would be giving up the simplicity and need to carry a ton of spares.

Me personally I would do options 2 and 3 on my rig. But that is just personal.
For going EFI, what kinda extras are you thinking you are going to have to carry with you? Really the most I would think is a spare O2 sensor or two, possibly a fuel regulator and pump, but I wouldn't think more than that.

 

[Willard]

Me personally I would do options 2 and 3 on my rig. But that is just personal.
For going EFI, what kinda extras are you thinking you are going to have to carry with you? Really the most I would think is a spare O2 sensor or two, possibly a fuel regulator and pump, but I wouldn't think more than that.

Me being me, the Air control module, TPS, o2, FP regulator, for sure an extra pump. If Holley sold them i would have an extra injector or two.
I like being prepared.....for most mechanical breakdowns. I figure a few trips and a lot of that stuff would never come.....But then again. anyone could say this to me.....you drove your F150 4000 miles and brought none of that.
So I guess ya, what you mentioned.

 

[Willard]

Ok so I am terrible at posting on my own thread.

Well winter is officially here with damn close to 5" of snow yesterday I was glad I moved the 60 into the garage on the weekend.
Now starts the final work (is it ever finished)

Little laundry list of things to do in no order.

• Finish rust repair in rear quarters (cut and weld new metal, smooth and prep for paint)
• Take 2nd dash and repair and restore (first time doing this so lets see how it goes)
• Rebuild Transfer case (parts ordered from Cruiser Brothers, should be here today or tomorrow)
• Install new clutch, slave, master and rear main seal, with H55f and transfer case.
• Fix and repaint the skid plate (small rust hole the size of 1/2 of a dime I will reinforce)
  
• Install the re-curved distributor I have and make sure all is working as before
• Install rear seat belts (still an open project)
• Remove drivers rear cargo window and fix the rust then reinstall
• Install 2nd battery tray and battery
• Cleanup little items and spiff up engine bay

So that is the list as it stands today. Not to bad and really a minor amount of work overall.

After looking at the AFI, Holley Sniper and Downey and the Howell fuel injection kits. I decided to look closer at the Howell kit.
While I have a GMC 6.0 that will be available next year, I do not want to take away from the complete Toyota. My engine is recently rebuilt and it will stay. That 6.0 will find a new home in a new project not Toyota related.
If I ever find a Toyota turbo diesel with a 5-speed that is reasonable I will swap that in first, but no rush.

I am still debating on EFI and If I go this route I will add it to the list with the header I have and the non US air cleaner assembly.
I have talked extensively to the team over at Howell and based on that it would be the kit I would get. Plus parts are readily available and off the shelf.

The only reason I would stay carbed is simplicity, but after talking to Howell and looking at their kit, I could carry every spare I need for next to nothing. That said after sitting for a month, my 60 started after about 60 seconds on the starter. Not to bad.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Ok so I am terrible at posting on my own thread.

Well winter is officially here with damn close to 5" of snow yesterday I was glad I moved the 60 into the garage on the weekend.
Now starts the final work (is it ever finished)

Little laundry list of things to do in no order.

• Finish rust repair in rear quarters (cut and weld new metal, smooth and prep for paint)
• Take 2nd dash and repair and restore (first time doing this so lets see how it goes)
• Rebuild Transfer case (parts ordered from Cruiser Brothers, should be here today or tomorrow)
• Install new clutch, slave, master and rear main seal, with H55f and transfer case.
• Fix and repaint the skid plate (small rust hole the size of 1/2 of a dime I will reinforce)
  
• Install the re-curved distributor I have and make sure all is working as before
• Install rear seat belts (still an open project)
• Remove drivers rear cargo window and fix the rust then reinstall
• Install 2nd battery tray and battery
• Cleanup little items and spiff up engine bay

So that is the list as it stands today. Not to bad and really a minor amount of work overall.

After looking at the AFI, Holley Sniper and Downey and the Howell fuel injection kits. I decided to look closer at the Howell kit.
While I have a GMC 6.0 that will be available next year, I do not want to take away from the complete Toyota. My engine is recently rebuilt and it will stay. That 6.0 will find a new home in a new project not Toyota related.
If I ever find a Toyota turbo diesel with a 5-speed that is reasonable I will swap that in first, but no rush.

I am still debating on EFI and If I go this route I will add it to the list with the header I have and the non US air cleaner assembly.
I have talked extensively to the team over at Howell and based on that it would be the kit I would get. Plus parts are readily available and off the shelf.

The only reason I would stay carbed is simplicity, but after talking to Howell and looking at their kit, I could carry every spare I need for next to nothing. That said after sitting for a month, my 60 started after about 60 seconds on the starter. Not to bad.

Dave, I saw Steve Jackson is selling a 12HT for about as cheap as I’ve ever seen before. It’s in the diesel section. If you already have the 5-speed it might be worth looking at.

 

[Willard]

Dave, I saw Steve Jackson is selling a 12HT for about as cheap as I’ve ever seen before. It’s in the diesel section. If you already have the 5-speed it might be worth looking at.

Thanks I will check into this......And it seems he sold it already.
Not to worry I may have to bring one in from Canada and I am looking at that, not a rush as of yet.

 

[REZARF]

As far as your header goes I would get it ceramic coated...

I had a MAF 6 into 1 header for years on my 40 and it rusted away... in Texas and Colorado mind you.

Got another one before MAF shut down and had it ceramic coated and it still looks brand new! I used a local guy in Denver and he explained my options, I went with his opinion and it looks and performs great.

Paint WILL burn off.
The wraps work really well to cut heat, but if you are in a wet/humid environment then you're adding essentially a layer of sponge to your headers. They can accelerate rust, but again the gains against under hood temps are real. YMMV.

 

[Willard]

Arrived from Cruiser Brothers.
The rebuild starts this weekend.
Spare flywheel I had and it goes to resurfacing next week.

 

[Willard]

Rebuild started and finished, I have more pics to upload and will later.

Couple of things, mine had been rebuilt once before. And the input and output shaft nuts are different.

 

[Willard]

So a call the Georg and I discovered that when they rebuilt the T-Case before they changed the stake nuts. There are two type the original with the washer separate and the updated one with the washer built in.

The one on the left is the new one. The one in the middle is the original style and the one on the right is the old one.

Oh you get a shot of my ancient Japanese Tohnichi inch lb torque wrench. This is what I used for checking the preload. Works great!


Finishing up the install this weekend and going to remove the old transmission and t-case. Should be a fun and heavy weekend.

 

[Willard]

And it starts

Ordered
TOYOTA Complete TBI System

• Please select your engine from the drop down list below:
  
  TOYOTA 4.2L 256ci I-6 2F
  
  
• Please select your transmission from the drop down list below:
  MANUAL
  
  
• Options:
  $625.00
  
  
• Distributor options:
  Include DUI HEI Large Cap Distributor ($550.00)
  
  
• Options:
  $625.00
  
  
• Please select your desired harness length:
  30"
  
  
• Please select the appropriate intake adapter plate:
  Toyota I-6 two barrel (bolt pattern) 3.5"x 2" ($75.00)
  
  
• Would you like a fuel pump?:
• yes
  

 

[Ian Crawford]

Correction: "And it always starts"

Awesome!

 

[Willard]

Well after a lot of research on here and several other places (Hot Rod, truck and various muscle car forums) for the past few months, I decided on Affordable Fuel Injection (AFI) for my fuel injection swap.

I have been a strong supporter of carbed cruisers. I still am, but for my needs EFI is a better option, especially as I have zero desire to do an engine swap.

I looked at Holley, FiTech, Howell and AFI. I also looked at MegaSquirt and the Downey setup available on Ebay.
MegaSquirt and Downey were out simply as I did not want to fiddle with the setup.

FiTech was a front runner and they answered every question I had via email.
Holley was 2nd.
After further research, neither were a good choice.
Resons:
1. At this point spare injectors are non existent. (for the 400hp units)
2. Rapairs to the throttle body (including the injectors) require this to be sent back
3. Longevity of the hardware is unknown

Howell,
I did not chose them as they did not supply a spark advanced distributor. I decided that after my research, this is something I wanted as as part of the full kit. Howell does make a great system it just did not have everything I wanted.

AFI was the final choice
I know right away that I would need to upgrade the fuel pump and that is ordered. Also some line, plug wires and a few other odds and ends.

With other people's results here and elsewhere, this was a solid choice.
I like (as with Howell) I can buy anything off the self for this. So if a sensor (the few it has) or injector goes bad I can get replacement at just about any autoparts store, and I can carry spares with out a huge cost.

Now many purists and some non purists here will balk at a GM style distributor as well as a coil in cap unit. I am just fine with them.
I have used them in various vehicles without any issue. Key is a quality unit.

It was all just ordered today so it will be a bit before I start the install of this as it can be a few weeks for build and ship.

 

[Willard]

Ok for all of you that pulled your own transmission and transfercase. I feel for you.

Pull this today

This will go in its place (H55f) after the Flywheel is reground and the new clutch installed. Right now I am beat.