Builds KarashiFJ40 1975 Survivor (1 Viewer)

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NookShneer

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Never thought I’d be able to get into a 40. I’ve owned a 83 FJ60 for 10 years now.

Was excited when @red66toy shared a Offer up add for a dirt cheap rusted out 40.

Three of us converged on the guy who met us at a Hispanic market near by in South Seattle.

We unintentionally overwhelmed him with two potential buyers (@KeilOver & I) and some random guy (@Kleatus) with a truck and trailer egging us both on.

@Kleatus was the enabler “It’s not that bad, it could have way more rust.”

I saw potential and struck a deal for the rig and a spare 2F holding up a fence and pile of wood.

It took some navigating to get the rig out while I was off to the bank to my wife’s horror. They guys did a great job while I was off waiting in line.

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It was largely not hacked up. Most of the pieces appeared to be in the back in bags labeled.

My hope it the head gasket blew and the project was stalled part way through.

Getting it driving and preserved as is with minimal modification will be the focus.
 
That was almost a year ago. It was parked in the garage to dry out while
avoided the process of the WA Vin inspection and process to get it registered with out a title.

@KeilOver picked up a 40 the other day and has been working to dress it up so I’ve gotten a bit of fire to get moving on it.

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and we passed!

One more obstacle over the purchase price vs. average price with WA. (I paid less than average 😁)
 
I picked up a second 2F out of the whole deal and have is sitting.

It was interesting getting it. I would recommend a utility trailer to anyone thinking this was a good idea.

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Brings us up to current:

The machine shop has a head off the spare 2F
Casting number is 61030. It came off a 2F block with a 60112 casting. Could be 60712. It’s a domed piston variant.

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The head that came with the truck (in the back with the parts pile) is also 61030.

The motor in the truck is a flat topped block with the castings
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Which would be the best to work with?

from what I have read it looks like the 63010 is open chamber head that is to be used in conjunction with the domed pistons.

Is that right?

Any recommendations for testing/inspecting the pistons in either block before sealing one for the other?

I’ve heard mineral spirits can be used kinda as a leak down test.
 
I once heard that you can put a later head on an earlier block if the cylinders are bored out and flat topped pistons are installed.

Is your paint code (data plate next to the battery tray) 531? Also, I bought my '75 with a white front bumper, can't be factory, right?
 
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Flat topped Piston 2F is coming out for the Domed topped 2F. From the head casting numbers it would appear that the 2 heads are intended for domed pistons.

I need a new can of penetrating oil after removing everything.

What is everyone’s fav?
 
I once heard that you can put a later head on an earlier block if the cylinders are bored out and flat topped pistons are installed.

Is your paint code (data plate next to the battery tray) 531? Also, I bought my '75 with a white front bumper, can't be factory, right?

mustard color was 532 I thought? I’ll try and check tomorrow.
 
LOL on the engine transport. IIRC @FJ45Dude had his father pick up his rebuilt 2F from me in ...

wait for it...


A Mazda RX7 hatchback!:hillbilly:

subscribed.
 
I think a Mazda RX7 would actually be easier to shoehorn a 2F into.

Did you guys set that thing down on the tailgate????? Holy crap!

Far from it! It was an inch down, an inch in. Another inch down, another inch in. Every inch a wild card whether the glass in the hatchback would survive.

And I think one person could have lifted the front of the car from the bumper once the load was in the back. Serious wheelie potential! :eek:
 

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