Do you think this is the original cluster or a later replacement? Note the dual speed indicator MPH & LM/H and the 50/50 AMP guage.
Instrument Cluster
- Thread starter 1979 FJ40ish
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Do you think this is the original cluster or a later replacement? Note the dual speed indicator MPH & LM/H and the 50/50 AMP guage.
That’s what my 5/79 40 has.
My 79 looks the same as well.
Have you checked out your fusible link? Acting as a shunt, between alternator and battery, the small voltage drop across it (charging or discharging) moves the ammeter needle, or is supposed to anyway.
But, you'll also want to check the other connections in the ammeter circuit, including the two lines between fusible link and the ammeter.
Have you checked out your fusible link? Acting as a shunt, between alternator and battery, the small voltage drop across it (charging or discharging) moves the ammeter needle, or is supposed to anyway.
But, you'll also want to check the other connections in the ammeter circuit, including the two lines between fusible link and the ammeter.
If you do replace the gauge, disconnect the battery first. The connections on the back of the ammeter are always hot and could be shorted to ground trying to get the instrument cluster out.
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- Apr 21, 2005
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50 amp meter, odometer that only reads to 99,999.9 miles and no 55MPH highlighted on the speedometer face is for a 79. Prior to 79 was 30 amp. 80 model has a highlighted 55MPH on the speedometer. 8/80 an extra digit was added to the odometer. Just because it's on You Tube doesn't mean it true. Have some old SOR catalogs with pricing that broke down parts to year and month. Now seems rounded off is good enough. Not sure if SOR started it but find many early FJ40 parts that were different than FJ25 listed going back to 1958.
If your old enough you might remember the saying close only counts for horseshoes and hand grenades. Today that seems to include old Land Cruiser parts
If your old enough you might remember the saying close only counts for horseshoes and hand grenades. Today that seems to include old Land Cruiser parts
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks to everyone who responded. I’ll rest easy knowing I have a period-correct cluster.
I haven’t got very far on this today.
What I do know is that the battery is being charged
No movement either way on the Amp gauge needle
All connections at the alternator appear to be good
The two inline fuses in the fuse holder, bundled with the wiring harness on the passenger fender, are both good.
I have not yet been able to confirm if there is a break in any of the wires leading into or out of the fuse holder.
I am assuming I won’t be able to verify the wire between the fuse holder and the Amp gauge until I remove the cluster.
I have attached a partial wiring diagram because I’m confused by the fusible link shown between the two fused leads to the gauge. 1. Where is it located? 2. If it is blown, what would stop working?
Anything else I should check before pulling the cluster?
As always, I appreciate the constructive feedback.
I haven’t got very far on this today.
What I do know is that the battery is being charged
No movement either way on the Amp gauge needle
All connections at the alternator appear to be good
The two inline fuses in the fuse holder, bundled with the wiring harness on the passenger fender, are both good.
I have not yet been able to confirm if there is a break in any of the wires leading into or out of the fuse holder.
I am assuming I won’t be able to verify the wire between the fuse holder and the Amp gauge until I remove the cluster.
I have attached a partial wiring diagram because I’m confused by the fusible link shown between the two fused leads to the gauge. 1. Where is it located? 2. If it is blown, what would stop working?
Anything else I should check before pulling the cluster?
As always, I appreciate the constructive feedback.
To find your fusible link, try following the WL (white with light blue stripe) from the alternator to the battery.
If you found the inline fuses to/from the ammeter, you can alternatively follow those wires to the fusible link. That's where they all come together (alternator, battery, ammeter wires).
My fusible link came out of the main engine harness near the coil/igniter. But, it had been previously cobbled to I can't say exactly where yours will be.
If you get that far, the fusible should be between two connectors, and will appear as a thick wire, in a sort of insulating material as I recall. It should have a very low resistance, and definitely not look burned.
If your charging circuit is working well, that would suggest the fusable link is not blown.
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If it winds up being a broken ammeter, it's still available from Toyota. Here's the part number:
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
83610-60023 Genuine Toyota Ammeter Assembly
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 83610-60023 (8361060023) Ammeter Assembly. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks for the part numbers. I'm going to need a new meter.
I shorted the alternator to the block years ago working on something and it blew out the ammeter. Took me awhile to find because I was looking for a nonexistent fusible link too. I ended up just taking the gauge out and re-soldering it. Easy fix that lasted until the Dakota Digital gauges went in.
- Thread starter
- #13
I have been trying to locate the fusible link on my 1979 FJ40, thinking I was looking for an “in-line fuse”. I came across another thread earlier today that has me thinking I have been looking for the wrong thing.
My FJ has a 50/50 amp gauge.
Is the wire with the grey shielding in the picture the fusible link? The white wire at the top of the connector connects to a red wire attached to the positive battery terminal.
If the fusible link is “blown,” does everything electrical on the vehicle stop working?
Thanks
My FJ has a 50/50 amp gauge.
Is the wire with the grey shielding in the picture the fusible link? The white wire at the top of the connector connects to a red wire attached to the positive battery terminal.
If the fusible link is “blown,” does everything electrical on the vehicle stop working?
Thanks
Yes, the fusible link should be inside that gray shield. If it's blown, your battery won't charge and you'll get no reading on your 50amp meter. I'd have to check the schematic to see what other symptoms you might experience.
The easiest way to unplug it and check it is with an ohmeter. I seem to recall it should read only a couple of ohms?
Or, with your battery hooked up, you can check on one side then the other with a voltmeter. You should get battery voltage.
In any case, I'd verify the wiring on that fusible link "triangle" (between the three connectors) against your schematic to make sure it's wired correctly.
But, it appears you have the heavy white w/light blue wire coming from the alternator, through the fusible link, to your battery positive, which looks right.
The easiest way to unplug it and check it is with an ohmeter. I seem to recall it should read only a couple of ohms?
Or, with your battery hooked up, you can check on one side then the other with a voltmeter. You should get battery voltage.
In any case, I'd verify the wiring on that fusible link "triangle" (between the three connectors) against your schematic to make sure it's wired correctly.
But, it appears you have the heavy white w/light blue wire coming from the alternator, through the fusible link, to your battery positive, which looks right.
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Coolerman's wiring diagram and parts.
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