Instrument Cluster

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1

1979 FJ40ish

10 Year
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Threads
112
Messages
328
Location
Clarksville, TN 37043
IMG_6037-1.webp
I have always believed this was the original instrument cluster for my 1979 FJ40. My AMP gauge stopped working recently, which got me looking for a cause and a cure. As a result, I discovered the YouTube videos on the 10mm Garage site and that got me looking at my cluster more closely.

Do you think this is the original cluster or a later replacement? Note the dual speed indicator MPH & LM/H and the 50/50 AMP guage.
 
Looks correct … gauges do go bad … why do you think it went bad?
 
Had my charge wire off alternator burn out at connector in harness … gauge wouldn’t move

If that’s your case… check your wiring
 
My 79 looks the same as well.

Have you checked out your fusible link? Acting as a shunt, between alternator and battery, the small voltage drop across it (charging or discharging) moves the ammeter needle, or is supposed to anyway.

But, you'll also want to check the other connections in the ammeter circuit, including the two lines between fusible link and the ammeter.
 
50 amp meter, odometer that only reads to 99,999.9 miles and no 55MPH highlighted on the speedometer face is for a 79. Prior to 79 was 30 amp. 80 model has a highlighted 55MPH on the speedometer. 8/80 an extra digit was added to the odometer. Just because it's on You Tube doesn't mean it true. Have some old SOR catalogs with pricing that broke down parts to year and month. Now seems rounded off is good enough. Not sure if SOR started it but find many early FJ40 parts that were different than FJ25 listed going back to 1958.
If your old enough you might remember the saying close only counts for horseshoes and hand grenades. Today that seems to include old Land Cruiser parts
 
Thanks to everyone who responded. I’ll rest easy knowing I have a period-correct cluster.
I haven’t got very far on this today.
What I do know is that the battery is being charged
No movement either way on the Amp gauge needle
All connections at the alternator appear to be good
The two inline fuses in the fuse holder, bundled with the wiring harness on the passenger fender, are both good.
I have not yet been able to confirm if there is a break in any of the wires leading into or out of the fuse holder.
I am assuming I won’t be able to verify the wire between the fuse holder and the Amp gauge until I remove the cluster.

I have attached a partial wiring diagram because I’m confused by the fusible link shown between the two fused leads to the gauge. 1. Where is it located? 2. If it is blown, what would stop working?

Anything else I should check before pulling the cluster?

As always, I appreciate the constructive feedback.

Wiring Diagram 042226 02_edited-1.webp
 
1979 FJ40ish said:
Thanks to everyone who responded. I’ll rest easy knowing I have a period-correct cluster.
I haven’t got very far on this today.
What I do know is that the battery is being charged
No movement either way on the Amp gauge needle
All connections at the alternator appear to be good
The two inline fuses in the fuse holder, bundled with the wiring harness on the passenger fender, are both good.
I have not yet been able to confirm if there is a break in any of the wires leading into or out of the fuse holder.
I am assuming I won’t be able to verify the wire between the fuse holder and the Amp gauge until I remove the cluster.

I have attached a partial wiring diagram because I’m confused by the fusible link shown between the two fused leads to the gauge. 1. Where is it located? 2. If it is blown, what would stop working?

Anything else I should check before pulling the cluster?

As always, I appreciate the constructive feedback.

View attachment 4127234
Click to expand...
To find your fusible link, try following the WL (white with light blue stripe) from the alternator to the battery.

If you found the inline fuses to/from the ammeter, you can alternatively follow those wires to the fusible link. That's where they all come together (alternator, battery, ammeter wires).

My fusible link came out of the main engine harness near the coil/igniter. But, it had been previously cobbled to I can't say exactly where yours will be.

If you get that far, the fusible should be between two connectors, and will appear as a thick wire, in a sort of insulating material as I recall. It should have a very low resistance, and definitely not look burned.

If your charging circuit is working well, that would suggest the fusable link is not blown.
 
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If it winds up being a broken ammeter, it's still available from Toyota. Here's the part number:

1777040531357.webp


83610-60023 Genuine Toyota Ammeter Assembly

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 83610-60023 (8361060023) Ammeter Assembly. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com www.toyotapartsdeal.com
 
I shorted the alternator to the block years ago working on something and it blew out the ammeter. Took me awhile to find because I was looking for a nonexistent fusible link too. I ended up just taking the gauge out and re-soldering it. Easy fix that lasted until the Dakota Digital gauges went in.
 
I have been trying to locate the fusible link on my 1979 FJ40, thinking I was looking for an “in-line fuse”. I came across another thread earlier today that has me thinking I have been looking for the wrong thing.

My FJ has a 50/50 amp gauge.

Is the wire with the grey shielding in the picture the fusible link? The white wire at the top of the connector connects to a red wire attached to the positive battery terminal.

If the fusible link is “blown,” does everything electrical on the vehicle stop working?

Thanks

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IMG_6381-1.webp
 
Yes, the fusible link should be inside that gray shield. If it's blown, your battery won't charge and you'll get no reading on your 50amp meter. I'd have to check the schematic to see what other symptoms you might experience.

The easiest way to unplug it and check it is with an ohmeter. I seem to recall it should read only a couple of ohms?

Or, with your battery hooked up, you can check on one side then the other with a voltmeter. You should get battery voltage.

In any case, I'd verify the wiring on that fusible link "triangle" (between the three connectors) against your schematic to make sure it's wired correctly.

But, it appears you have the heavy white w/light blue wire coming from the alternator, through the fusible link, to your battery positive, which looks right.
 
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Yes, that should be your fusible link. If it blows you should lose all power. Test it as per @CruiserInProgress mentioned or a test light.
 
1979 FJ40ish said:
View attachment 4126766I have always believed this was the original instrument cluster for my 1979 FJ40. My AMP gauge stopped working recently, which got me looking for a cause and a cure. As a result, I discovered the YouTube videos on the 10mm Garage site and that got me looking at my cluster more closely.

Do you think this is the original cluster or a later replacement? Note the dual speed indicator MPH & LM/H and the 50/50 AMP guage.
Click to expand...

I am the 10mm Garage Guy and it is my video. You have an OEM cluster that is in incredibly good shape. I doubt it's your cluster or gauge. But you can try to put a test light on the plug behind the cluster. You should have some power there. If not then you will need to work your way backwards toward the battery and I am not 100% sure of all the connections that are under the hood for this. If you do have power at this plug then I could be the gauge.

IMG_20260503_120042.webp


I didn't mention on that video that 2/79 and later amp gauges are different than the one I was using to demonstrate. The functionality is the same but the amps are 50 and power was reduced. I recently took that video down and added some more info to it for this exact reason.

Jack
 
JVZii said:
I am the 10mm Garage Guy and it is my video. You have an OEM cluster that is in incredibly good shape. I doubt it's your cluster or gauge. But you can try to put a test light on the plug behind the cluster. You should have some power there. If not then you will need to work your way backwards toward the battery and I am not 100% sure of all the connections that are under the hood for this. If you do have power at this plug then I could be the gauge.

View attachment 4139328

I didn't mention on that video that 2/79 and later amp gauges are different than the one I was using to demonstrate. The functionality is the same but the amps are 50 and power was reduced. I recently took that video down and added some more info to it for this exact reason.

Jack
Click to expand...
Love your YT videos, man.
 
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