I finally get the shop I have wanted for too long

[waiting for time]

If you have a clear line of sight you can use point to point wifi connection.

These systems can travel large distances and you’ll be on the same network at each end.

 

[1911]

They work well. I have had a system installed for about 5 years in a metal shop. And that is with poor signal outside to begin with. I can’t remember the brand at the moment. I’ll have to climb up to ceiling to look. It was $400 IIRC

I have a cell phone booster in my current metal building, that I brought with me from our last place, so it's 10 years old? Works well; we get good signal inside the building, where previously we had almost none. There is an antenna on the roof that needs to be pointed to the nearest tower. There is a phone app that can help you do that, called "Opensignal". There is another broadcast antenna that goes on your ceiling inside the building. It requires low-voltage power via a small transformer. I don't remember the brand, unfortunately, but could maybe look on the interwebs and see if it is still there.

 

[knuckle47]

I decided to go with direct burial cat 6A cable and run a source from my current switch and add a small router in the ceiling of the pole barn. Along with this cable is a run of RG-6 coax for the cable TV. I don t need to add a cable box YET as long as something is making some noise in the background like Motor Trend, FantomWorks, Gearz, and a few others. The cat6 was reasonably priced at $37.00 for a 200’ roll…if it holds up

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I decided to go with direct burial cat 6A cable and run a source from my current switch and add a small router in the ceiling of the pole barn. Along with this cable is a run of RG-6 coax for the cable TV. I don t need to add a cable box YET as long as something is making some noise in the background like Motor Trend, FantomWorks, Gearz, and a few others. The cat6 was reasonably priced at $37.00 for a 200’ roll…if it holds up

That was my first potential solution but Cat6 (and 5 for that matter) has a distance limit of 100m (328') and I'm at 400'+. That's why I was converting to fiber optic at the house and then back to Cat6 at the shop.

 

[knuckle47]

I have fiber at the house and the shop is about 160’. I’m sure the fios guys would bring in some connection but the fees or monthly cost for me would not be worth it. Since this accommodates the need… it should be good..

 

[PIP]

I have run Cat6 cable for internet as far as 400 feet. It was notably slow at 400 feet. I'd say it works great at 200' though.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I have run Cat6 cable for internet as far as 400 feet. It was notably slow at 400 feet. I'd say it works great at 200' though.

I think the experts would agree with you.

 

[Michael B]

Good progress was made inside this weekend. Construction in the south end of the room is 99.9% complete. I still need to install one piece of insulation and one sheet of metal before making the final plumbing connections.

 

[Michael B]

Day one.

 

[Michael B]

Day two.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

How do you prevent water intrusion to the inside of the barn if rain hits the side walls and goes between the masonry and metal skin?

 

[PIP]

I didn't see that coming... I figured for sure there'd be some tin cut off and some flashing installed. Or is this just some kind of mock up stack?

I did some stuff like that before I had some building experience under my belt and I sure regretted it later on.

 

[Michael B]

@ceylonfj40nut CD the same way it would happen if there were no stone there. Water doesn’t go through the sheet metal. The dry stacked stone will have a cap on it that will be caulked to the building when finished.

 

[PIP]

@ceylonfj40nut CD the same way it would happen if there were no stone there. Water doesn’t go through the sheet metal. The dry stacked stone will have a cap on it that will be caulked to the building when finished.

That caulking will only last a couple years. Metal has a considerably different rate of expansion compared to stone.

You really need a flashing that goes under the tin and over the rock and allows for movement between the two while keeping moisture out.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I can't tell if that's dry stack or if you are mortaring the joints. If dry then no problem. If mortared joints then there should be weep holes of some kind at the bottom to allow water out. How high are you going?

 

[Michael B]

The stone is being dry stacked. Apparently I’m missing something here guys. The stone is free standing and not attached to the building. Water can’t collect behind the stone. The metal is powder coated and undisturbed from its original installation. How is water going to get in the building?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I can't tell if that's dry stack or if you are mortaring the joints. If dry then no problem. If mortared joints then there should be weep holes of some kind at the bottom to allow water out. How high are you going?

I would still put a flashing to deflect majority of the water. Weep holes work until debris blocks them. When you have ice at times, it can cause heave.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Sorry, I just posted after you did. You may have this covered.

 

[Michael B]

Day three.

 

[knuckle47]

You need any lidocaine patches?

that job would land me on the couch for 3 days…. I applaud your endurance….looks really good

by the way @Michael B , how deep is the concrete ledge you are placing the stone on….? I like this very much and think about it seriously