After over 3 weeks in the body shop, and $11389 CDN in repairs later, I got my Cruiser back! Almost like driving a new one
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (60 Viewers)
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Place here called Taps Plastic. They may only be in California but I'm sure there are like stores around.
Best mod yet...wheelskins cover. Very cost effective fix to that nasty worn out original...
Took her camping.
Brought my subwoofer back from the dead with some new fabric and a set of Dayton Audio ND105-4 drivers. Not a plug'n'play fit, but well worth the 15 minutes it took to cut out a hardboard adapter for the factory sub enclosure. For their size, they produce an insane amount of bass (more than I'll ever need) and sound 10x better than the factory ones. A steal at $27 each.
Woofers:
"Dayton Audio ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
Speaker grill fabric:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171171519252
Woofers:
"Dayton Audio ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
Speaker grill fabric:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171171519252
Thanks for the report on those little drivers. I have been wondering how they perform. Are you still running the factory amplifier?
No. The factory amp was gone when I bought the truck, and a 15-year-old Pioneer is powering them. I did reuse the wiring from in the box to under the PS seat. That part is plug'n'play, and the change from 3-ohm to 4-ohm is negligible. I can't think of any reason why they wouldn't work with the factory amp, and I'd do it if I still had one.
A little heater T, hoses, thermostat coolant flush. Took longer than I thought it would.
This past week:
Replaced the rear upper & lower control arms with MT adjustables, and dialed in my pinion angle to stop my ujoints from complaining.
Added a extended drain hose for the a/c condenser routing it away from the frame and swaybar bush mount.
Installed an extended front diff breather replacing a clogged & corroded factory check valve.
Installed SPC adjustable upper control arms to get my caster angles back to normal.
Next week......
BIOR rear bumper install, and whiteline adj. panhard.
Replaced the rear upper & lower control arms with MT adjustables, and dialed in my pinion angle to stop my ujoints from complaining.
Added a extended drain hose for the a/c condenser routing it away from the frame and swaybar bush mount.
Installed an extended front diff breather replacing a clogged & corroded factory check valve.
Installed SPC adjustable upper control arms to get my caster angles back to normal.
Next week......
BIOR rear bumper install, and whiteline adj. panhard.
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Started getting things ready for the sliders and new roof rack.
J
J
Is that the sub box for a 1998-2002? if so, looks good. did you cut out the plastic and use fiberboard as the template?
Took the boy out exploring some mostly dry creek beds and forest trails near our property. Had a great time, got a few scratches on a couple wheels but our lc is far from a show truck! My son is itching to grow. I told him as soon as he can touch the pedals he could help drive on the trails.
What size are your LEDs in the front lower bumper grilles and how hard were they to install? I have a couple 14" ones that I think will fit in my LX 470 grilles, but not 100% sure of it.
Yes, for a '98. No need to cut the plastic on the sub. The fiberboard goes right over the plastic to decrease the openings from 4.25" to 3.75".
This is more of a what have I done to my 100 series this month. First the good news. I installed some black depo's. I also ordered a new front and rear bumper which will be delivered next week! Pics coming soon.
Now the bad news. After 1391000km (864000miles) my engine failed. I was pulling a trailer and on the highway the car started shaking. The problem was that the engine was running on 5 of its 6 cilinders. The cause of that was a faulty injector, and also the turbocharger was in a really bad condition. So we replaced both, but that did not solve the problem. The engine was a little bit better but still not drivable, but the new turbo is a huge improvement in power. So then we took the engine further apart and found the real cause. The cilinder with the faulty injector cracked one the the pistons...
So now I am in search for a new engine. I found one for a good price, but I want to check the engine first. So maybe after a few weeks I will be driving a low milage Land Cruiser again! Together with the new bumpers and headlights.
We will be taking the engine apart this week to look at the wear after all those miles. From what we could see with the cylinder head removed is that the engine still looks very good, except the sixth piston.
And this is how the air intake looked due to a faulty turbocharger in combination with the EGR system....
I will disconnect the EGR system on the next engine to prevent this from happening again.
Now the bad news. After 1391000km (864000miles) my engine failed. I was pulling a trailer and on the highway the car started shaking. The problem was that the engine was running on 5 of its 6 cilinders. The cause of that was a faulty injector, and also the turbocharger was in a really bad condition. So we replaced both, but that did not solve the problem. The engine was a little bit better but still not drivable, but the new turbo is a huge improvement in power. So then we took the engine further apart and found the real cause. The cilinder with the faulty injector cracked one the the pistons...
So now I am in search for a new engine. I found one for a good price, but I want to check the engine first. So maybe after a few weeks I will be driving a low milage Land Cruiser again! Together with the new bumpers and headlights.
We will be taking the engine apart this week to look at the wear after all those miles. From what we could see with the cylinder head removed is that the engine still looks very good, except the sixth piston.
And this is how the air intake looked due to a faulty turbocharger in combination with the EGR system....
I will disconnect the EGR system on the next engine to prevent this from happening again.
