How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

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Hi Guys, I am half way through my project, which includes radiator replacement, front crank oil seal, oil pump seal, belts, hoses, pulleys, etc. I do not know if someone else has posted this before, so I just add my two cents. I removed the battery in order to remove the radiator, once the radiator was out, I moved on to the crank bolt using bump start breaker bar methods. I used jump cable to hook up the battery to my truck, bump started few time without success, after 2 days of thinking of weak battery or starter motor, I realized that the jump cable might be the problem. So this morning I put the battery back into the truck, set everything in places and turned the key, the bolt got loose after first try.

Hope this helps.
 
This is likely my second post. Just completed the job and have a thought and two questions (if anyone is still reading this thread).

Thought: When prying out the crank seal, I realized after removal that I'd been prying on metal on the inside of the engine, and surprisingly no movement (sheesh). Try to squeeze your prying device between the seal and the lip, but be careful not to ding up the lip.

Question 1: I still have a drop of oil per park in the garage. Oil pump seal look good, but my question is about the crank seal - does it swell over the first bit of driving? I have to clean off the front of the engine anyway, so may just find it's oil that leaked from the oil pump.

Question 2: I also replaced the distributor cap. The #6 wire clip broke when I removed it, so the wire can wiggle around in the cap and I can simply remove it without a tool. Has anyone found a replacement clip for the wires that would clamshell over the wire so I wouldn't have to replace the wire itself? It's the bottom wire on the cap, so any liquid is going to head straight for it and I want to ensure a good seal.

In any case, thanks to the forum, thanks to the texasknowhow video, and thank you Japan.
 
There shouldn't be any leaks from the oil pump seal or crankshaft seal if they were replaced. You might check whether your drops are coming from the crank position sensor on the front bottom of the engine. The seal can be replaced with 2 O-rings as Landtank describes here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/crank-sensor.82601/#post-985536
 
Big, big thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread!! Our new to us Land Cruiser no longer leaves large slicks in it's wake. I just completed doing the oil pump seal, main seal, ditributor o-ring, and the power steering pump seal. All the o-rings broke apart as if made out of wood! Threw in new OEM belts, A/C idler pulley and regular idler pulley so we should be good for a few miles. One little snag I wanted to mention; after I had it all buttoned up I fired it up and my idle seemed a bit high; 2200 rpm. As this was the first time I had ever started it cold since I bought and drove it home I couldn't tell if it was normal or not. So I took it for a test drive and got it good and warmed up; idle was still way too high. It turns out that I had pushed the throttle cable to the backside of the power steering reservoir to keep it out of the way when I pulled the distro; as soon as I let it return to its original routing the idle went back to about 700 rpm and all was good again in FZJ80 land.
 
My observations

Parts
Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022
Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
I think the Allen Head Pan Screws or Torx are an upgrade instead of Toyota Screws. Have 7 on Hand

Tools
Vaseline to hold in Oil Pump O-Ring
Pick Set from Harbor Freight
55 gallon barrel of degreaser
3/4" Breaker bar from Harbor Freight and 3/4" Metric Socket Set (~$30)
Bungee Cord
Handheld Electric Impact Driver
Speed Out Kit (If Screw Strips)
#3 JIS Phillips Bit that fits in Impact (~2" Long)
Sharpie
Thin Work Gloves
Headlamp or Flashlight
Magnetic Parts tray
Small toothbrush sized wire brush
Sandpaper (optional)
Piece of cardboard to lay on to release AC tensioner
Catch pan for Radiator Fluid
2" PVC Male to Male Coupler
Hammer


Sequence very much matters (I'm dumb and learned this on my own):

Crankshaft Seal and Oil Pump O-Ring Replacement
1. Drain about a liter of radiator fluid out of bottom of radiator so top portion is empty
2. Remove Fan then Fan Shroud (2 Bolts) . Removing RH Radiator hose on radiator will allow shroud to come out. Don't bust it, handle it like an infant.
2. Loosen A/C Tensioner then remove belt (If belts are questionable order Gates replacement; Rock Auto)
3. Loosen Alternator Tensioner then remove belts (If belts are questionable order Gates replacement; Rock Auto)
4. Check Condition of Idler Pulley Below Alternator (order replacement if needed, OEM on Ebay or Beno)
5. Check Condition of 3 Radiator Hose (Order Gates $20 for all from Rock Auto if Questionable)
6. Remove Harmonic Balancer by Bungeeing Wrench to Passenger frame rail and removing electrical plug from top of distributor then touching key
7. Pry out old seal using tape covered flat screwdriver and force in new seal using 2" PVC Coupling
8. Remove screws from oil cover using impact driver. I heated (with mini torch) and quick shot of PB blaster then impact and they came right out.
Get the Speed Out Kit if you strip a head. It's a $20 investment on a $1200 project and it fits right in impact. Heat does make a difference. I tried without and stripped 1st one.
9. Make sure cover is flat, and if not Lap with Sandpaper. Install new O-ring using Vaseline and insert new screws

Dizzy
10. Remove Ground cable on RH side of battery mounted to fender then remove battery wires, then battery, then battery tray.
11. Remove distributor cap (3-8mm bolts) and leave wires connected, set aside. Witness mark of bolt holding distributor and make a mark on outside rim of distributor for rotor location. I used a sharpie.
12. Remove dizzy and clean all around it.
13. Replace O-ring and Reassemble. Make sure rotor location matches and make sure bolt holding dizzy is in same location.

Remember; "Act in Haste, Repent at your Leisure (Time and $)"

This is a somewhat enjoyable job if you are methodical.
 
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I was hoping to find the specs of the OEM screws within this thread. Does anyone have the thread pitch and diameter handy? I'd like to replace mine with some stainless hex or torx screws.
 
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