Build Holley Sniper/Desmog Install - Tilda Bogue Service Station

[wngrog]

So I got home and had to run errands this morning but I got on this thing about noon.

The only part I was missing was the temperature bung into the head. I ordered one and it was the wrong size.

Normally I install the Sniper temp sensor into the drain plug on the block. Most 40 heads only have 2 ports. Heat and stock temp sensor.

This is a 1981 so it has 3. My plan is to add it to the third position

Problem is I ordered the wrong thing. ACE should have it tomorrow.

In the mean time I plugged the sensor in and laid it on the head so it would reach 160* so I could tune it.

 

[wngrog]

As you can see from the video it fired up perfectly and while it was working its way to temperature I monkeyed with setting the timing.

During the WIZARD start up I set the target idle to 800. I started running them a bit higher because on occasion some of these things want to die coming to a stop with the idle too low.

Once it was running then set your timing. I have found most Snipers and DUI setups like 8-13*

Once it's at 160* then you adjust your IAC/throttle plate to get it to 2-12 and your target RPM

Read this 5 times. This screw is NOT and idle screw. It is a throttle plate screw. Idle was set during the initial programming wizard.

This is where people mess up. They start monkeying with the throttle plate screw thinking it's strictly an idle and not paying attention to the LCD monitor and the IAC

 

[wngrog]

Now the fun part, running the throttle cable.

Mosley provides the Lokar cable and the bracket.

First, for this type of cable you can use any pedal. I prefer the gold one on the left. All it takes is a tiny hole drilled into it.

To use the one from this truck you have to bend the U shaped linkage part that goes outside the truck to where it's inside the truck.

Basically you need a way to run the cable through. You can bend and drill a hole in the rod

On this one just a tiny hole big enough for the bare cable to pass

Then you pull the cable out of the sheath

Remove these pieces from the cable and set aside

Now line up a spot directly behind the place you drilled the hole in the pedal. That's where you insert the cable sheath. This tub had a hole already from an early style pedal cable

Once it's in place pass the cable from the inside out through the sheath

Then pull it snug

 

[wngrog]

back at the sniper. Add this to the throttle arm

Next, mock up your cable guides and tighten. I like to start with the adjusters like this for clearance.

Feed the cable through and determine where you will need to trim the cable

Once you figure out the spot to cut, I like to put some shrink tube or tape on the cable to keep it from fraying. Make sure your adjuster is on the cable before you cut

Add the piece that snaps in and you are done.

Push the pedal and make sure you have 90-100% on the TPS

Then make sure the cable was not bottoming out at wide open throttle

Either bend the pedal or add a bumpstop inside the tub floor (60s come with a bolt in the floor) to make sure when you are mashing the pedal at wide open something physical is stopping the pedal not relying on the tiny screw holding the cable.

 

[wngrog]

This is the most usable screen on the LCD

To get there from the Home Screen touch Sensors

Multi Gauge

Sensors

 

[wngrog]

Now make sure you install a proper Toyota air cleaner and not some s***ty round Chevy air cleaner with the supplied adapter via Mosley and you are ready to drive

 

[wngrog]

 

[wngrog]

Drove perfect !

 

[wngrog]

 

[wngrog]

This may all be wrong but it what I have observed over 5 years of fooling with these things

 

[wngrog]

Price was about $5000 in parts and $2500 labor.

 

[bkfj40]

Thanks for this awesome write up! I need to mess with the accelerator linkage on my 40 with a 350 w/ sniper and see what is on there currently Much appreciated!

 

[Spike Strip]

Thank you for the brilliant tutorial and documenting even the small details. You probably just sold 50 kits.

Too bad I'm in Commiefornia.

btw, interesting Alternator, is that a GM one-wire ?

 

[wngrog]

Thank you for the brilliant tutorial and documenting even the small details. You probably just sold 50 kits.

Too bad I'm in Commiefornia.

btw, interesting Alternator, is that a GM one-wire ?

I think it is. I'm not touching anything in all that. It seems to work. I'm afraid to mess with it unless it all goes away and comes back new

 

[newmexicokid]

Couple questions. Is there a cool way to mount the small screen? Does it do anything besides work the Sniper? Is there an app for your phone that can be used instead of adding the small screen?

 

[wngrog]

Couple questions. Is there a cool way to mount the small screen? Does it do anything besides work the Sniper? Is there an app for your phone that can be used instead of adding the small screen?

No app.

My buddy mounted his in the glovebox on the door. Open door it's facing you.

Once you program the truck you can actually unplug it.

I don't recommend that but the tiny Sniper brain is actually in the "efi unit" itself

 

[Jdc1]

No app.

My buddy mounted his in the glovebox on the door. Open door it's facing you.

Once you program the truck you can actually unplug it.

I don't recommend that but the tiny Sniper brain is actually in the "efi unit" itself

There’s an app for the Sniper 2 but no 2 barrel yet on that platform.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Couple questions. Is there a cool way to mount the small screen? Does it do anything besides work the Sniper? Is there an app for your phone that can be used instead of adding the small screen?

I uploaded an STL for a 3D printed version that uses one of the existing dash bolts, keeps it up out of the way and flush to the dashpad but avoids adhesives.
Builds - Family FJ Build : '76 40 Resto/Frame Off (a.k.a. the Japanese Baby Buggy) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/family-fj-build-76-40-resto-frame-off-a-k-a-the-japanese-baby-buggy.1241981/post-14088114

 

[Jdc1]

Wanted to post this but forgot- if you are using a Remflex, make sure to be careful with how much you are prying on the exhaust system. It doesn’t like to have much movement after install and final torque.

The only way to get a stock style gasket to seal is to have the manifolds machined and spot faced to near perfection, a machine shop that thinks they can do it can’t.

 

[Augustiron]

Thanks for taking the time to write everything up and post with photos.

Missed the O2 sensor install....?