Build Holley Sniper/Desmog Install - Tilda Bogue Service Station

[wngrog]

I've been meaning to do a Holley Sniper install thread separate from a build thread and the perfect vehicle came in to do one.

I'll work on this thing this week and document the way I do it. It may not be the way you do it. It may not be the best way to do it.

This truck is perfect because it's fully smogged so we can cover both in one place.

1981 FJ40.

I've done over 30 of these things so I can give you my thoughts and insights along the way. Feel free to chime in. Most of my threads get totally derailed so I'm sure this won't be any different

This thing runs like s***. No wonder. Very few fully smogged trucks do. This one was no different.

 

[wngrog]

This part makes me happy. I love tearing this s*** out. I'm sorry for the people that have to deal with keeping 30+ year old 120 hp cars running with all of these potential vacuum leaks.

 

[wngrog]

People think the Sniper is a magic bullet to make their Cruisers become perfect from a stumbling and bumbling turd.

It for sure can be, but the INPUTS from the motor to the Sniper have to be correct or the Sniper will run like crap.

Two hours into teardown today.

Valve cover is off because adjusting the valves is part of the formula to make sure the Sniper is getting the proper INPUTS

More teardown tomorrow .....

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Great thread. Looking forward to it. Maybe getting ahead of tomorrow’s installment but, are you/do you ditch the carb fan too?

 

[speedn3]

Great start and looking forward to the progress!

 

[wngrog]

Great thread. Looking forward to it. Maybe getting ahead of tomorrow’s installment but, are you/do you ditch the carb fan too?

It won't have the trigger to make it come on so yeah they get yanked.

 

[Augustiron]

 

[Jdc1]

It won't have the trigger to make it come on so yeah they get yanked.

Have a 60 that is going to have the sniper installed tomorrow. Have you tried to trigger it from the cooling fan outputs yet?

 

[wngrog]

Have a 60 that is going to have the sniper installed tomorrow. Have you tried to trigger it from the cooling fan outputs yet?

Nope. Never felt like I needed it with the Sniper. I live in the swamp and mine all fire up just fine when hot.

 

[zerotreedelta]

People think the Sniper is a magic bullet to make their Cruisers become perfect from a stumbling and bumbling turd.

It for sure can be, but the INPUTS from the motor to the Sniper have to be correct or the Sniper will run like crap.

1000% - been meaning to start a more general Sniper Tuning/share your tune/tips-n-tricks type thread. Speaking of inputs, I did recently switch to a fixed-orifice PCV. The Sniper seems to manage the traditional valved PCV acceptably, but it does seem like the fixed orifice variant is indeed a bit cleaner for when you dive into more fine grained tuning and getting a tidy VE map (at least so far).

Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 12567915 PCV Valve : Automotive

Buy GM Genuine Parts 12567915 PCV Valve: PCV Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[wngrog]

1000% - been meaning to start a more general Sniper Tuning/share your tune/tips-n-tricks type thread. Speaking of inputs, I did recently switch to a fixed-orifice PCV. The Sniper seems to manage the traditional valved PCV acceptably, but it does seem like the fixed orifice variant is indeed a bit cleaner for when you dive into more fine grained tuning and getting a tidy VE map (at least so far).

Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 12567915 PCV Valve : Automotive

Buy GM Genuine Parts 12567915 PCV Valve: PCV Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Please do because I never adjust them. That info won't be in this thread.

 

[wngrog]

Day 2 of teardown.

This truck just got a new outside the frame exhaust done so I have to keep the stock exhaust manifold. I prefer a header. Less moving parts. Less gaskets to fail. A little more power. This one stays so first things first is to plug the EGR. This can be a real bitch. This one was not. The dopey thing on the side of the motor was held on with 13mm head bolts. Proof this thing has been out of this 40.

I'm using a JimC desmog kit for the plugs and the air pump delete.

Link

81-87 2F PRODUCT BUNDLE

This bundle is all five components for a sanitary desmog when installing an 81-87 2F engine into an earlier non-smog Land Cruiser. Engine parts smog delete FJ60.

tlcperformance.com

 

[wngrog]

INPUTS.....

I'll keep stressing this. The Sniper is a DUMB system. It relies on the motor running correctly and the O2 sensor.

That's it. That's all it's got for it's pea brain.

The PCV valve was trash. Was not working.

The vacuum advance pod on the OEM dissy was not actuating the advance. This is very common and one reason I use the DUI distributor. More on that later

The batteries on these AC trucks are in the way to work on the passenger side so I pulled it only to find the tray was rusted out.

Also, as much as I hate to do it, I had to change out the exhaust gaskets. The stock style gasket was gone.

This is a big issue on bad Sniper installs. Do it now. It's a bitch to have to pull it all apart after it's done.

Biggest issue was that the exhaust would not clear the PS box or pump with the studs in place so I had to get them out with vice grips to slide the gasket out and then slid the Remflex in place.

The Remflex is the best. Only use this gasket.

 

[wngrog]

Last few items to remove before I start putting this thing back together tomorrow.

Almost had the air rail off in one piece so I could pay that turd forward to my poor Cali friends but the one at the firewall twisted off.

The crazy thing is that last one was a 16mm .... what in the F?

Remove the NGK garbage and replace it with proper Denso. I gap them at .040. Not quite the .050 that DUI calls for. I tried that with mixed results and have settled on .040

Here is the PN for the exhaust studs from the head I had to remove

Today was 4 hours. Most of that time was screwing with the stupid stock exhaust manifold.

 

[wngrog]

Back at it.

I pulled the drain plug out of the side of the block where I normally install the Sniper temp sensor and for some reason my sensor would not thread into the holes so luckily this is a late head with 3 holes in the top. I went to get the plug out and it laughed at everything I threw at it including the first M10 nut I welded on. I grabbed this M14 and bugger welded it and it came out

Air Rail plugs via JimC

Air pump delete pulley via JimC (he sells for early and late 2F. The holders are different sizes so be sure to order the proper one)

Removed the fuel pump from the box and needed the first item out of the Mosley Motors box

 

[wngrog]

Good time to introduce this kit. Email him at sales@mosleymotors.com for a kit. He's a one man operation so don't try to call.

What's in the box?

5/16" fuel line and high pressure clamps
Very quiet Walbro pump (in tank kits available)

Lokar cable and bracket
Air cleaner rod (bent for a 2F air cleaner)
O2 bung
2300 Holley Adapter machined for adapter clearance
Corvette Return with -an fittings.

Missing from the kit

I get the Insulators from @cruisermatt

2F Carburetor Gasket / Insulator / Heat Shield

This component serves three functions: it provides the gaskets to seal the connection between the carburetor and intake manifold, functions as a heat insulator for the carburetor, and acts as a heat shield protecting the vacuum and fuel lines. IMPORTANT: Install this part dry without any sealant...

cruisermatts.com

These things can be trimmed to work with a F manifold or you can reuse your F base with fresh gaskets or purchase a new unit from Redline

RL1057 1F FENOM Carburetor Insulation Spacer - FJ40 Toyota Land Cruiser (SN1-1) - Red Line Land Cruisers

RL1057 1F FENOM Carburetor Insulation Spacer is a replacement for Toyota 12224-60060 INSULATOR, CARBURETOR HEAT that. is rather fragile and forever out of production. We needed a better fix! And we wanted to make it BETTER than "just a fix!"

redlinelandcruisers.com

 

[wngrog]

Step 1 - Pull the carb studs

Clean and check your mating surface. I have a straight edge I lay up here to make sure it's not warped. Redline has a great video on how to flatten this surface if you find an issue.

Before you bolt all this up make sure you don't have and cracks here in the intake. This is the most common spot.

Prep your isolator. Remove this tube...leave a little for a cap

Cap the outer and add a dab of RTV inside for when then cap disintegrates.

Install the modified 2300 adapter. Mosley machines off a portion so the adapter fits flush on the Insulator. NOTE*** you don't use carburetor gaskets with a fresh isolator.
SECOND NOTE ***** be sure to put these three studs in from the bottom of the adapter before you screw it all down

The 2300 gasket that goes on top of the adapter comes with the Sniper. Pull the Sniper out and replace the return with the supplied cap from Mosley

Set the Sniper on and be sure to install the throttle bracket when you bolt it down (Mosley Kit)

In place and bolted down

 

[wngrog]

Time to stab the dissy. You need the truck to be top dead center on the "up" stroke.

The BB is TDC twice. Once on intake . Once on exhaust.

Perfect time to adjust the valves.

If you are alone the best way to do this I've found is put the transmission in 4th gear (least resistance) and push until you see the BB.

If the valve cover is off, check the rockers and see what is loose. If it's the first three then you are on the intake stroke. If not you are on exhaust. To adjust the valves you have to to both

Once you are finished you push it back to Intake (loose front 3) and stab the dissy.

TIP-add some grease to the gears and then a bit to the O Ring. The ORing grease serves two purposes. One it holds it in place when you tip it over. The second is that it will squeeze out when you actually seat the distributor. The difference is about a centimeter and whether or not you have oil pressure. This is a BIG DEAL so take this part very seriously.

Also, when you install the distributor you need to make sure the vacuum advance pod is on the 3:00 position (relative to the motor being 6 and 12). It needs to have room to adjust and not hit the oil filter when setting the timing

You will start your #1 wire at the post the dissy pointer is pointing to on the cap

Oreilley always has these in stock and make the two wire hook up even easier.

 

[wngrog]

I promised a quick why on why I use the DUI distributors on my builds.

First and foremost, simplicity.

I build these trucks and send them out all over the country. Any shop can figure out a DUI and it's wiring for any of my customers if it goes south. The ignition and cap is in every parts house in America.

The Toyota stuff is great. It's Toyota but most of it is old as dirt. Technically they need to be "recurved" when you use a smog dissy on a desmog truck. New non US dissys are still available so that's an option.

Also I've heard all of the horror stories of HEI distributors wrecking peoples oil pumps as well.

I just go on my tiny subset of 40 or so of these things in trucks I've built and only one had an ignition go out. No other issues.

I only recommend this brand and this brand of wires only. I have zero experience with any other brands.

I have to knock off early so I'm calling it.

4 hours.

 

[Augustiron]

Re: valve adjustment... done cold it seems...?