Help!!! real time question.

[Gibran Kabande]

Hi,

I have a 1994 pickup 4x4 V6, I want to replace the distribuitor cap, rotor, cables & spark plugs.... where to buy? quality/price?

Dealer or napa, autozone, etc etc...

thanks in advance,

Gibran.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm sure you'll get differing opinions but you can't go wrong if you buy all of that from the dealer. You can buy the plugs just about anywhere but make sure you get NGK plugs. The FAQ (One of the threads at the top of the forum) has information on the correct NGK plug for your engine but your owner's manual should have the same.

Many people swear by the Toyota plug wires. I bought some "expensive" wires from LCEngineering (see photo) but I don't think they were any more expensive than OEM wires.

I would go to the dealer for the cap and rotor, although if you were ordering wires or anything else from LCEngineering then I'm sure their cap and rotor is OEM equivalent. I have no affiliation with LCEngineering (other than they have a lot of my money!) but I've found their product quality and service to be pretty good.

I don't buy too many things from the parts houses so apologies that I can't give you a bit more steer in that regard.

 

[pappy]

I would get the cap, rotor, and wires from the dealer. I would also consider getting the plugs (Denso) from the dealer too, but as said, NGK from any of the box part suppliers will work just as well. I will agree with WDE that the Magnecor wires that LCE sells rock. But I would only recommend them if you run headers. The factory wires will not stand up to the extra heat the headers produce.

I realize that there can be sticker shock with the dealer, but on some items the price difference is very close to NAPA, Checker, Autozone, etc, especially when you compare to their better quality brands vs. their junk. Also, consider doing business with one of the discount Toyota dealers. Cruiserdan (American Toyota) here at MUD gets a lot of money from MUD members (mostly those silly 80 boys). He gives a 25% discount to MUD members. He can be tough to get ahold of, especially at the end of the month (inventory) and when he is getting ready for Cruiser Moab (which is next week). Combine the two, and well, you get my point. He's a busy fella.

 

[the truck doctor]

Shouldn't their be a small exhaust tube across these two pionts on a 22re?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Shouldn't their be a small exhaust tube across these two pionts on a 22re?

No idea. That's an LC Engineering ceramic coated, stainless header bolted to a DOA Racing 22RE. It runs pretty good.

Maybe you should have driven over to Thorsby when it was going together?

 

[pappy]

Not across them. My Thorley is a different design than the LCE and has those little tubes under the main tubes. I don't know why.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Don't know what it will cost for a V6, but for a 22RE, about two months ago a set of plug wires from the dealer (CDan) cost $62. That's chump change for a full set of plug wires, that are already terminated and fit correctly, include the little clips to keep them tidy, and the wire from the coil to the distributor.

Dan

 

[pappy]

No idea. That's an LC Engineering ceramic coated, stainless header bolted to a DOA Racing 22RE. It runs pretty good.

My Tim@DOA engine with about 80K miles on it kicks booty. On a good day I can keep up with a FZJ80 with 35" tires.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

My Tim@DOA engine with about 80K miles on it kicks booty. On a good day I can keep up with a FZJ80 with 35" tires.

The only problem with mine is I cannot get enough miles on it. It was installed just under 2 years ago and I'm pretty sure we've put less than 2k on it since then. We're just not in the country long enough. The more we drive it though the stronger it seems to get (at least on the interstate).