Hello/Merry Xmas from Noobie

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RWBeringer4x4 said:
Same to you!

The crew on this site are awesome. I absolutely couldn't do what I've done without them.

Sorry my last post was about 1/2 thought out - I was holding my wife's horse while she patched up a cut...

1. The engine being 10 years older than the truck was more a word of warning for getting through inspection. If you plan to antique it in MD it only has to pass safety inspection. If you want it tagged as 100% road worthy, it needs to pass emissions too. In that truck's case, it would have to pass 1977 emissions, which it wouldn't do with a non-smogged, 60's engine. That said, I antiqued my 1975 with a 1967 engine. Technically that means "parades and car shows only" but I drive it around and nobody has ever given me any grief for it.

2. Pay VERY close attention to the details of any V8 conversion - ie: what bellhousing or conversion kit did they use? Did they put it in the correct location in the bay? Common wisdom says 19-20 inches from the front cross member to the motor mounts is about right. I didn't know these things when I bought mine. It turns out my engine is WAY too far forward, causing the modified shift throw to be ridiculously long, the fan is only about 1/4" from the radiator, and the front driveshaft had to be removed because it binds under flex (too steep an angle).

As a result, I get to pull the engine this summer and "re-convert" the V8 conversion. Live and learn!

FYI: I found this truck in Annapolis 3 years ago on Craigslist, but it spent most of its life out in Cali. I think it cost me about $7000 to buy it, ship it to my house in DE where I lived at the time, and get it running and inspected. It's (mostly) rust free due to the majority of its life spent in California, but as others have mentioned, it has needed a TON of work beyond the initial purchase price. I've probably put at least $7000 into it to get it where it is now. That number will be over $10,000 once I've finished getting it 100% mechanically sound and put the engine back where it belongs. Almost all of that work was from BAD previous owner modifications. I can't stress enough inspecting the truck in person, if at all possible, and buy the BEST base truck you can find. If I'd known then what I know now, I almost definitely would have picked a different FJ40. But the Clustertruck is mine now, and I love it anyway. Sounds like you're willing to be more patient than I was!

X2 on the clubhouses as well - You're closer to Capital Land Cruiser club. I'm in the "no man's land" between them and Keystone Cruisers. The 40 still isn't quite reliable enough to make it to either club's meetings.

Happy hunting!
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Much obliged. Appreciate the "parade car" as my wife n I were wondering about that. Someone from Cap Cruisers pointed me in their direction.
Is it possible to tell about how close the engine is mounted in the craigslist pic?
 
FWaltersnewbie said:
Much obliged. Appreciate the "parade car" as my wife n I were wondering about that. Someone from Cap Cruisers pointed me in their direction.
Is it possible to tell about how close the engine is mounted in the craigslist pic?
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Hard to tell - it certainly looks further toward the firewall than my engine is, but generally the passenger side head is only about 2 inches from the firewall when mounted properly. I believe mine way mounted in such a way that the previous owner could simply reverse the front and rear driveshafts without modification (although I've never measured to confirm).

You can always ask the seller for a few measurements:

1. Distance from front crossmember to engine mount (should be about 19")

2. Distance from rear of passenger side head to firewall (about 1.5-2")

3. Have him take a picture of the shifter location inside the cab. For most older conversions, there will be a slight bend at the base of the shifter to clear the stock heater. I have a MASSIVE dog leg in mine which should have been a dead giveaway that something wasn't right.
 
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Does this show the bend you were talking about, RW? Looks pretty straight to me
 
Holy crap, is that in neutral?
 
He means, if it's in neutral, you won't have room to shift into 1st and 3rd, assuming a 4spd.

It's not normal for the gear shift boot to be "under" the heater.

I'm guessing @RWBeringer4x4 will say his is currently set up in a similar fashion, except his gear shift is dog legged to bring it closer to the normal knob position.

If I'm right, this is probably what RW is warning of... E.g. Fan real close to radiator.

But, I'm guessing...
 
Solace in Solitude said:
He means, if it's in neutral, you won't have room to shift into 1st and 3rd, assuming a 4spd.

It's not normal for the gear shift boot to be "under" the heater.

I'm guessing @RWBeringer4x4 will say his is currently set up in a similar fashion, except his gear shift is dog legged to bring it closer to the normal knob position.

If I'm right, this is probably what RW is warning of... E.g. Fan real close to radiator.

But, I'm guessing...
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Sorry - late to the party and I know it was sold (bummer) but that isn't half bad. Generally speaking the bend added to the shifter will be covered by the transmission boot. That's not too far off of where it should be. Mine is far, far worse (completely behind the heater).

As long as it could get through all the gears I don't think that particular conversion would be too problematic.

Oh well, a day late and a buck short but info for next time!
 
Just for laughs (unless you're me) this thread below catalogs pretty much exactly what not to do...You can see the massive dogleg in my shifter I was referring to previously. For reference, where the shifter finally goes vertical on my conversion, is about where the transmission shift tower USUALLY is on one of these conversions. Closer to the heater than stock, but only a few inches off. My shift tower is butted up against the inside of my firewall...:bang:

At a crossroads - Do I open this can of worms? (V8 Location/Clutch Replacement)

Proud to say I can take no credit for any of this work - I'm just paying to fix it!
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
Just for laughs (unless you're me) this thread below catalogs pretty much exactly what not to do...You can see the massive dogleg in my shifter I was referring to previously. For reference, where the shifter finally goes vertical on my conversion, is about where the transmission shift tower USUALLY is on one of these conversions. Closer to the heater than stock, but only a few inches off. My shift tower is butted up against the inside of my firewall...:bang:

At a crossroads - Do I open this can of worms? (V8 Location/Clutch Replacement)

Proud to say I can take no credit for any of this work - I'm just paying to fix it!
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I think this is a good lesson for me to make sure I buy the "right" rig right from the start!
 
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The other three pics of frame/wheel wells look similar
Am I missing anything?
(Besides the top/cap)
From owner:
"Needs a clutch soon. Don't have a top. Just little things needed. Nothing serious "
"It has some dry gaskets because it sat for a while. Engine was rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago. I got it from my cousin on a trade for my 07 chevy crew cab. He owned it for 38 years".
 
FWaltersnewbie said:
Is this a lipstick on a pig situation? [emoji14]ig:
Whereas @RustyNailJustin's is a butterface?
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You've got it. All the hard stuff is done with @RustyNailJustin s rig. Research some of his builds on here and pirate. You wouldn't be getting a clapped out rig from the 80s that will drive you nuts fixing rust and undoing poorly done "mods" but one that needs a little polishing and cosmetics. It would be worth a call to discuss specifics.

If that one doesn't work out, keep looking at as many 40s as you can and you will be able to spot the pigs.
 
FWaltersnewbie said:
Is this a lipstick on a pig situation? :pig:
Whereas @RustyNailJustin's is a butterface?
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What @Jdc1 said... Knows vs unknowns... Not trying to point you to a particular truck. Just make sure you know what you are buying... If you miss it, there will be another. Patience...
 
FWaltersnewbie said:
Is this potentially getting into the same engine wall/space issue RW?
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The engine looks located pretty much correctly on that one. Space appears to be an issue because it's running headers that set the exhaust outside the frame rails. Most conversions you see run the stock "Rams horn" manifolds that allow the exhaust to run inside the rails. This is mostly a matter of preference but most folks believe keeping the exhaust inside the frame adds a measure of protection against crushing it on a rock.

There's a lot "not stock" about the rig posted. It's all a matter of what you're looking for. I would definitely check out the bodywork on that one. I'd bring a magnet if it's local and check for bondo...

I think 8k is ambitious, particularly if it needs a clutch, a top and has some "dry gaskets" (which means leaks) - these are not necessarily "little things," depending on your skill level.
 
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