Heater repairs/upgrades/sources

[3jvj]

Fall will be winter soon. I've run without heat (or minimal at best) for three years. It's my dd in the Wyoming winters. That means when it's 30 below out I drive with my window down and sunroof open so my breath won't fog the windows.

Moving on; cause if you don't know what that's like you have to do it to understand. Scary part is I'm used to it.......


Here are the issues, what I've done, and what I'm looking for. As my issues seem to run the gambit- I'm hoping for a decent "heat" resource thread if we have enough info.

But first: throw some cold icewater down your pants because that's what warm coffee becomes after 12 seconds on January third.

Issues

1. Wiring was "toggled" when I bought it. After a donor switch was installed it ran for all of three minutes and smoked some wires. Although I eventually moved on and found the source of the smoke/smell I still ran that winter ghetto style with a new and improved "lighted" toggle switch (I did add a fuse and relay though).

q-
1. Is there a three speed switch available that will work and isn't 30 years old?
2. Is there a rectifier/reducer/transducer (whateveramahickey) available to bypass the cracked ceramic fan speed block I'm running now?


2. When I replaced the motor I found my airbox in deplorable condition. Given the availability of parts I cleared off the old duct tape and gave it a "new" round.

q-
1. Do all fj's run the same internal squirell cage set ups, and do the fans/blade angles spin in the same direction?
2. Is there a better donor option to up the output?


3. Although it hasn't really been an issue thus far I'm guessing that when my fan does start pumping air it has NO hope of ever reaching my toes or drying out my floor (heaven forbid I gain my defrost ). I assume everyone has the dry rot problem.

q-
1. Is there a retro/restore kit around that has the hoses and the elbows as well?
2. Since I'll no doubt go through two years of denial before swallowing the dollar amount for the answer to #1; is there a "cheap" way to go about it for a temporary fix?


4. Now that I've done all this the pig gremlins will have called in the heavy hitters (as I should be gaining an upper hand at this point). After the glycol green napalm scars my legs I will need to know a few things.

q-
1. Is there an aftermarket heater core out there?
2. Can I add rear heat, and is there any option newer than j/y parts (conversion vans etc.)?


5. Now that the whole fam damily is toasty warm I sure would like to see out my rear window.

q- Anybody solve the rear defrost scenario? Tape? Heater fan?


Much oblidged for any tips, help, info or .02 anybody has on the topic.- Josh

 

[AATLAS1X]

q-
1. Is there a retro/restore kit around
1. Is there an aftermarket heater core out there?

2. Can I add rear heat, and is there any option newer than j/y parts (conversion vans etc.)?- Josh

See my ebay store for the restoration kits and heaters (55 not posted) and the core's are available from Autozone.

Best,

Shane

 

[Ming89FJ62]

q-
1. Is there a retro/restore kit around that has the hoses and the elbows as well?
2. Since I'll no doubt go through two years of denial before swallowing the dollar amount for the answer to #1; is there a "cheap" way to go about it for a temporary fix?

Ducts are avaialble from Toyota complete with the elbows for "reasonable". Or you can use black electrical tape on the existing elbows and find some flex hose at Lowes or Home Depot.

The piggy's heater, when working, does keep your toes very comfortable FWIW

 

[hicruise55]

I have a friend that put the Mojave in his 55... in short- it sucks!

I put some time an effort into my stock system and it rocks, even on the freeway missing most door seals you cant run it on hi it will cook ya! Get a kit from Shane and as far as switches, I would stay factory- easier now, and in the long run

My rear heater does seep a little coolant so I may replace? Summit has a heater, similar to the Mojave but they offer 2 different BTUs and the larger is WAY larger so I may go that route? Just to have reserve?

Also a tip, put some cardboard or ? in front of your radiator when it gets super cold, it will help get your truck up to operating temp and make your heaters hotter.

Good luck!

 

[3jvj]

Thanks all. Thanks for the link Shane; top notch. How much does powder coat run from an average shop?

As far as cardboard goes, I'm running a warm 350 with a winch that blocks airflow (no moab in july until I go electric).

Any part # for hoses/elbows? No toyota dealer local so it's through the gm shop. Thanks.-JJ

 

[AATLAS1X]

Shops have a min charge from $50-$75

 

[Trollhole]

Resistor for late 73 on 87295-60070
Don't know if it's still available.

Another option would be to try one of these.
Page 4
http://www.airproair.com/pdf/illustrated/ELECBLOWERSWITCHES-new.pdf



As far as blower motor and resistors for the early blower Coolerman has got that covered. I'm pretty sure all early cruiser blower motors are similar.
Front Heater Fun



As far as the dash blower switch.
Early 73 and earlier used a push pull (from what I can tell)
part # 84730-12010

late 73 and beyond used a lever type switch

84732-60010

Rear heater switches from what I can tell were all the same throughout the production.

84730-60020

From what I can tell they all are expensive. I don't know if they are still available from Toyota.

If not I'd really give these guys a shot. If your looking for a replacement lever switch.
Page 2
http://www.airproair.com/pdf/illustrated/ELECBLOWERSWITCHES-new.pdf

If your looking for the round. I'm betting a heater blower switch from a 40 would work. Might be the same thing.

Also if you just wanted a switch and didn't care about how it looked the links above have some nice ones with resistors buit in.

 

[hicruise55]

And of course my rear heater fan started SCREAMING at me last night Last time it was me telling a guy to always carry a bike brake cable as a replacement for throttle... next day mine broke

Hopefully some lube will fix it? Probably doesnt help I had it a foot under water last weekend

 

[inkpot]

Thanks all. Thanks for the link Shane; top notch. How much does powder coat run from an average shop?

As far as cardboard goes, I'm running a warm 350 with a winch that blocks airflow (no moab in july until I go electric).

Any part # for hoses/elbows? No toyota dealer local so it's through the gm shop. Thanks.-JJ

Using cardboard is about 10X more effective for blocking airflow than the winch is. It's the same has having NO fan. I did it for nearly 10 years in Cheyenne. John

 

[3_puppies]

just wondering if anyone might have changed the blower motor and squirrel cage with one from a 40 series?? the cages fins are angled opposite of the 40 series because the motor mounts from under neath, not on top

Never had a problem with my 55 when I ran it before I sold it last year.

could be the heater core is just plugged up with hair and dirt and stuff, so your not getting air flow thru it??

 

[RHINO]

i remember when i got mine a pack rat had made a nice multi level condo in there, musta been several wives, popular rat. after i cleaned it all out it worked great. i think the stock setup is good. another idea is motorcycle radiators, i have a couple that will be rear heat when i get around to it.

 

[Delancy]

And of course my rear heater fan started SCREAMING at me last night

Cures?

Motor isn't sealed, so is it as simple as disassembling and cleaning?

 

[Pighead]

Most moving parts/pieces on a Pig can be fixed/improved with a simple disassembly/cleaning/reassembly...
Any decent electrical motor repair shop can re-wind the motor and replace bearings.

 

[Delancy]

Most moving parts/pieces on a Pig can be fixed/improved with a simple disassembly/cleaning/reassembly...
Any decent electrical motor repair shop can re-wind the motor and replace bearings.

Cool.

Going to pull the heater early next week, get it torn down and motor pulled/cleaned, then take it and the rear heater motor somewhere local for the work.