Gotten lots of quotes, but never pulled the trigger. They have a good reputation here and elsewhere on the intetwebz.
Heater core replacement
- Thread starter promofzj80
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- core heater heater core replacement
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- Thread starter
- #22
Hey Tank, you still have the heater core?
If you do I may be interested.
Promofzj80, your heater core is no different then your radiator, both are just heat ex changers. I'd make a few calls to some of your local radiator shops, since they re-core radiators for a living, most will have experience in re-coring heater cores too. My best guess, it'll cost you around 120 bucks to have your heater core repaired. I do have to say, after you've done this repair, you'll really need to stay on top of your cooling system maintenance. That means a complete coolant, and distilled water change every 2 years, if not sooner.
Psst.... take the housing and get the water pipes as well. I thought it was my heater core, but it was actually the water pipe, also discontinued. I scored one of the last heater cores this December.... But I needed the water pipe.....
- Thread starter
- #26
Tank, Yes I will take all of it. Thank you very much!
Let me know when you are back in town and we can get to the details.
Not sure how to do the PM thing?
Let me know when you are back in town and we can get to the details.
Not sure how to do the PM thing?
- Thread starter
- #27
Lazy and rifleman, thanks for the info. I feel allot better about going this route.
- Thread starter
- #28
Hey Tank, If you can. Will you get back with me on the heater core. I'm interested.
Hello!!! I am also in need of a heater core 8710760130....anyone have one???? anyone ever order from Partsouq???? they apparently have a Daihatsu part with the same Toyota Part number.......please help !!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #30
Tank, Thanks for the heater Core! It is in and works great.
Macd, Good luck finding one. I had the one I got from Tank checked out flushed and cleaned. It had to have a small leak repaired but seems good now. Total for repair and pressure check $45.00
Macd, Good luck finding one. I had the one I got from Tank checked out flushed and cleaned. It had to have a small leak repaired but seems good now. Total for repair and pressure check $45.00
promofzj80 I was wondering how hard it was to pull the old core and replace it. I believe my blend door is stuck open and fixing it sounds like a similar process. Would probably try to replace heater core at the same time.
- Thread starter
- #32
Ridgeback, I ended up paying someone to do it for me. A little more involved than I wanted to tackle. The whole dash and everything had to come out.
Thanks for the reply!
Will this Part number work for a 94 1FZFE?
When i looked up that part number the Toyota dealership info list P/N 87107-60130 as For Primary HVAC. Land Cruiser. Front. From 01/1990 to 08/1996 so yes it looks like it would of fit your 1994. Problem is, this thread is going on 3 years old, and that heater core/part number is long since listed as discontinued/NLA.
Can you explain what steps you took to make a 96 heater core work
what did you end of doing
What symptoms are you having?
The are a few aftermarket front heater cores available (no Toyota ones), but to replace it you need to disassemble your entire dash. This is not a small undertaking. You want to make sure you have all the parts you need prior to starting.
Otherwise you pull your existing one and have it rebuilt at a radiator shop for about $300. Takes about 10-14 days to have one rebuilt.
Our trucks are reaching the age that we will start seeing more failures of these due to debris and poorly maintained cooling systems.
It's a solid 8 hours to remove and about 10 hours to reinstall the dash. Some can do it in less, but that's because they've done it before. You must be meticulous about bagging and tagging
Or get out your checkbook for about $2000 of work to pay someone else.
It is producing inconsistent heat. I had a shop flush and flush the system it at times puts out very hot air but also produces very luke warm air. Will continue to live with it. Thought it is a time consuming task. Thinking I might drive it some more then flush the system again. Who knows what the previous owner ran it
Inconsistent heat like that indicates an air pocket.
While the engine is cool, pull the front end uphill, like onto ramps or uphill and onto a curb. Open the radiator cap to check fluid level. Fill to top of neck.
Open the heater valve to full hot.
Start engine and let it run up to full temperature. As the fluid starts to expand and puke out the neck , install the radiator cap. After driving it, park it back uphill and let it cool.
Repeat the process. You should see lower coolant levels the first time or two, then you will see it stabilize and no longer lower levels.
It's possible that someone did not install the thermostat bleed hole at the top to allow the bubbles to move out of the system freely.
Fill your overflow tank to the proper line after each time you do this. You should see both levels stabilize.
The higher you place the front end the better. I have a slanted driveway, so I put mine on ramps facing uphill, so it was way up. (Bottom of the front tire was about 14" higher than the bottom of the rear tire)
If you are seeing a loss of coolant, then you may have a leak somewhere. I had a leak on the o-rings for the coolant bypass pipe above the thermostat and it took almost 12 months of looking until I finally saw the wet evidence of where it was leaking. As you fix one place, it may start leaking elsewhere, as you get the system better sealed.
Oh, and change your radiator cap.