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Having problems getting the rivets out.....PS mounting

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by 90 Weight, Feb 23, 2007.

  1. 90 Weight

    90 Weight

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    so im trying to mount the new mini PS setup to my cruiser....I followed the direcitons per Romers write up....now im trying to get off the old pedestal for the manual PS....Ive ground down the rivets so they are flush with the medestal, and even drilled them a bit....but now they are breaking drill bits, and show no sign of coming off.....any ideas?

    I dont have an air hammmer.....just a sledge hammer
     
  2. wckgitcrazy

    wckgitcrazy

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    rivets

    You are SOL inless you continue to hammer using a flat ended punch while trying a little heat. I did mine with an air hammer and they were out in 10 secs. Suggest you see if anyone on the board is close to you that has a compressor and hammer and hook up with them or heat, tap, tap, tap...If you use a pointed or rounde punch it is probably splaying the rivit making it tighter.
     
  3. 90 Weight

    90 Weight

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    s***...Yea I know nothing about rivets....I cant even see where they are anymore...Ive just demolished the whole area with the grinder/drill..... so if I get it smokin hot coudl I just beat the s*** outa it with a hammer and it might come out...or do I have to beat on the Rivet itself? At this point im just bangin on the top of the pedestal.

    And I live in a soccer mom neighborhood,....so noone will have a compressor
     
  4. ranger

    ranger

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    THe rivets are not that hard, you shouldn't be breaking bits.
    THe way I remove the rivets is to center punch the rivet head, then use a small sharp bit and drill about half way down into the rivet. Step up a couple of sizes and repeat. I do this until the rivet head just about falls off. You need to drill the rivet at least to the frame, the you can knock off the pedisal with a BFH. Make sure you use lube or the drill bits get dull fast. It goes fairly quick if you have sharp bits, otherwise your going to be at it for awhile.
     
  5. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Another instance where the flame wrench owns the day....Oxy Acetylene torch makes very quick work of them.
     
  6. wdorry

    wdorry

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    Rivits

    If you grind further down into the bracket where the rivit heads were you should be able to hit the bracket with a hammer and see the outline where the rivit body is. You need a good punch that is flat on the end (needs to be almost as big as the rivit on the end)and a t least a 2lb hammer. Bill
     
  7. Coolerman

    Coolerman SILVER Star

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    I just did this a week ago. No torch, no air hammer just a cut off wheel on an angle grinder, a punch and a 3 lb sledge. No heat either. Use the cut-off wheel to remove the head of the rivet flush with the bracket which you have done. Now use a drill to create a place for the punch to rest with out slipping and start beating them out. Took all of 20 minutes to get the bracket off...
    P1270026W.jpg
     
  8. camcruiser13

    camcruiser13

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    x 100 on the flame,

    melts the buggers out and let them drip like snot
     
  9. '74 UA FJ

    '74 UA FJ

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    x2, but you can do it with a BFH...just do some more pushups! :D
     
  10. 90 Weight

    90 Weight

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    Allright...I got pissed and just drilled a bit deeper and then hit it with a punch, and got 2 of em out...I was workin on the third and hit my finger with the sledge....stipped off most of the skin on the end...but atleast now I know I can get em out! I wish I had an oxy torch!

    Thanks for the help


    Eli
     
  11. exmodlad

    exmodlad

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    i did this yesterday...no problemo


    Gord
     
  12. ranger

    ranger

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    A punch holder is a beautiful thing.
     
  13. '69 Yota

    '69 Yota SILVER Star

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    Sure....until you hit her finger too:)
     
  14. bbalbano

    bbalbano

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    If you broke a bit off in the hole then you might have a prob drilling. Your bits prob just suck. I just did this a week ago and at first I had the same problem, I went and bought a new and stronger drill bit and it drilled through like it was cheese. Then I just took a normal hammer and gave it about 10 wacks. No problems after the new drill bit.

    hope this helps
     
  15. Coolerman

    Coolerman SILVER Star

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    That was good!

    Well when yo do do that then buy or make one of these, it will save her fingers! :D
    PHolder.jpg
     
  16. Hugh Heifer

    Hugh Heifer In Tenneginia!

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    Didn't you ever get those gloves, Eli????

    I also ground the heads and beat them out with a hammer and drift. (This was on my rusted frame diagonals) No real trouble.
     
  17. yotanut

    yotanut

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    I find this is the best method. I had the luxury of having a air compessor. One minute per rivet with my angle die grinder and about 3 seconds each with a air hammer having a pointed chisel on it. The steering box was still in great shape to sell and looked as clean as Coolerman's picture.
    Oxy/Acyt is OK for someone who is very competent using it. But I like this cleaner approach. By the way I am very good with torch, and had bottles on my service truck at the time. It has its place and time.
     
  18. tlcruiser66

    tlcruiser66

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    I did this on mine a couple of weeks ago, PITA. It took me about 2 hours with a grinder and a lot of smacking with big f-ing hammer. Be persistant, it'll come off eventually.

    Kevin
     
  19. 67azcruizr

    67azcruizr SILVER Star

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    Max time, 2 mins a rivot. Center punch the rivot, drill out about 3/4 depth of rivot with a 5/16" step drill bit (Home Depot carries them), about 5 wacks with a 1/4"-5/16" punch and ball peen hammer. I've replaced front crossmembers, rear crossmembers, leaf spring hangers, steering brackets, front bumper gussets,etc all using this simple method. Cutting fluid goes a long way in preserving the bits. I could usually do the entire rear crossmember with two bits (14 rivots), and about a half hour. Center punch is crutial.