Well I dumped a bottle of AT205 in my 2011 GX with 180K on it. Has the codes at 160K, had the valve body replaced to no avail. I’ve got the 2 codes and sometimes failure to go from 3-4th. I’ll keep this group updated on how it goes.
GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread
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For target practice, I have to travel an hour or two into the deserts or high country, unless I go to our local indoor range, but they don't allow rifles unless you qualify with the range, and even then, nothing too big. So basically just handguns.Yup - we also have the ~2,900 SF nearly-new custom designed and built home next to the shop, both of which are on a multi-acre wooded lot that's both big enough that I can use my tractor on it and far enough outside of town that we can responsibly engage in target practice in the backyard. Oh - no planning/zoning regulations, no HOA, my building permit was only $25, property taxes are maybe $2K a year, and state income/sales taxes are so nominal that I barely notice paying them.
But, every year does involve a pricey vacation or two to the beach, to the mountains, or both.
No HOA, but yeah, everything else is $$$$. Being retired now, my tank of gas lasts almost a month, since all my recreation is walking distance. I only burn up a tank when I have reserve Army drill once a month.
Guess your son is a Marine? Good on him and God bless him during his time in the Corp!
I'm about 3 minutes from the north gate of MCBCP (Marine Corp Base Camp Pendleton). I've done a lot of church mission work with Marines through our church trying to keep these young men from going astray (alcohol, drugs, etc.) while in the Corp since many of them are the first time away from home.
In all seriousness, I'd imagine CA to be great if you got in a couple decades ago when housing prices weren't crazy and have a setup like you do where everything is close by (the small amount of gas you do buy is probably a lot cheaper than our vacations are
). Home prices have doubled around here in the past 15 years and rent has tripled, but both were lower to start with. Just starting out anywhere now would be very hard for a young person, I can only imagine how hard it would be in a high-priced coastal metro.
Agreed! Not sure how my daughters family will ever be able to afford a home in our town, unless (God forbid) someone dies. At least we're lucky they live only a couple miles from us, so we're always seeing them all.In all seriousness, I'd imagine CA to be great if you got in a couple decades ago when housing prices weren't crazy and have a setup like you do where everything is close by (the small amount of gas you do buy is probably a lot cheaper than our vacations are
Instructions show nipples down and not horizontal. Do you have an opinion? If I go nipples down, I can get more direct airflow through the grill and less behind the bumper. I’ll be making my own brackets. As I’d like to get this thing as far away from the radiator as possible. I’m having some real high temp problems right now. I suspect my trans/radiator cooler is clogged and I’ll be bypassing it. We don’t get many very cold temp days. I’m keeping the thermostat (currently pinned open)
Close he’s a Navy Corpsman. He just got back from a deployment but he is embedded with the Marines. I was just at Pendleton visiting him a couple months ago. What a beautiful area I love it!! Thank you for helping those guys out, there’s a lot of young Marines that need that guidance for sure.
I’ve done coolers both ways, I don’t think it matters.
This is how my current 678 is setup.
This is what I came up with. I wanted the cooler as far from the radiator as possible to get as much air circulation possible. I’m 5 1/2 inches off the AC cooler. I did a quick angle iron fab up. Not pretty, may add another bracket on the bottom. The core support is more flexible than I’d like. Rubber grommets not on in these pictures. Horns between trans cooler and AC cooler
With that amount of gap, air will likely flow around the cooler to some extent due to the resistance of passing through it. If you can’t move the cooler closer to about a 1/2” off the condenser, you might use some foam around the cooler to bridge the gap.
I see what you’re saying. I’ve had overheating problems in my LX450 before I put in a missing fan shroud and forward skid plate. Need to let the fan pull air over it
Trans thermostat is not functioning. Radiator flow path clogged up. Temp 2 @ 248 last Sunday with thermostat pinned open. 2 codes. No reverse until trans at 180 min with accel tap.
New cooler installed with trans not pinned open, bypassing radiator. Drained fluid, changed filter. Add back fluid +2 QTs. Reverse functioning normal. High temp 2 @ 237 and building. New cooler slightly warm to the touch, incoming hose warm/hot. Bottom of cooler warm, top cool. Outgoing hose cool to touch. Reverse normal function.
Back home, pinned open. Cooler hot to touch within 1 minute, outgoing hose hot to touch. Temp dropped 10 degrees within 3 minutes. Test drive: Temp 1 max 207, temp 2 max 217. Current 93 air temp.
Thermostat pinned open gives reverse problems, gotta tap accelerator to get it into reverse. 7 codes.
Putting another qt of fluid in tomorrow morning.
May change wiring harness.
New cooler installed with trans not pinned open, bypassing radiator. Drained fluid, changed filter. Add back fluid +2 QTs. Reverse functioning normal. High temp 2 @ 237 and building. New cooler slightly warm to the touch, incoming hose warm/hot. Bottom of cooler warm, top cool. Outgoing hose cool to touch. Reverse normal function.
Back home, pinned open. Cooler hot to touch within 1 minute, outgoing hose hot to touch. Temp dropped 10 degrees within 3 minutes. Test drive: Temp 1 max 207, temp 2 max 217. Current 93 air temp.
Thermostat pinned open gives reverse problems, gotta tap accelerator to get it into reverse. 7 codes.
Putting another qt of fluid in tomorrow morning.
May change wiring harness.
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The hot cooler usually indicates there is a lack of air flowing through it
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Bought a bottle of AT205, quick 5 minutes to add it.
I figure a few items that are a plus… 1)I have zero solenoid or hard shifts prior, simply a pressure item, so we’ll see how this works after time… 2)Having extra fluid always has helped with the codes, so that extra 8oz should do…. 3)No risk! Read all the background on this and very safe.
I’ll report back in a few months as it works its way in to the seals and o-rings
Added all skid plates and upper/lower plastic covers. Added 1 qt additional fluid tonight. Much better reverse response.
Task 1: relocate cooler closer to AC condensation/radiator.
Task 2: replace trans wiring harness.
Task 3: replace radiator/attempt to clean out trans rad cooler/ replace trans thermostat/add another trans cooler.
Any opinions on adding an aux fan to the new trans cooler?
From what I’ve seen, this entire trans/trans cooling system was fried years ago. Every component has failed. Poor design, poor maintenance, etc.
It shouldn't need an aux fan, perhaps unless you are totally bypassing the OEM radiator (in which case you'd be better off to just replace the radiator).
I suggest that when people start experiencing their trucks running hot, pull over and turn off the engine and check the turning resistance of the fan. At those higher temps the resistance should be quite substantial. If it’s not you likely have a bad fan clutch. I’m
The fan clutch is kicking in, you can hear it. I’ve replaced several in other vehicles, fairly familiar with the systems/problems.
I am totally bypassing the OEM radiator due to what I believe is a flow issue (see above). I’ve read about flow problems in these. It’s on the list to replace and then set up the new cooler in series.
Just being honest but if you have other transportation options, I'd park it until you can get a new radiator installed. There are way too many things that can go wrong if you have more problems with the radiator. It a relatively inexpensive part ($285 from Lexus, $120 for an aftermarket on Rock Auto) and it's not hard to replace other than messing with the coolant.