No way to do it without Tech Stream. I spent a substantial amount of time getting Tech stream to work on my 10-year-old PC. Also had to get the correct OBD scanner. Configuring those two together to then work with ECU was a bit of a hassle. I would probably take it to someone with TS to do it. Less headache. Unless you plan on using TS for future use.
GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread
- Thread starter StriderWolf
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Looks normal to me. Here are my Denso Iridiums with 65K on them (200K on the motor when I pulled these). They just appear a little bit darker, with the electrode a bit more eroded. Regardless, wet/dry compression test should be your next step.
I pulled cylinder 7 to swap the plug and it was pretty heavily coated in wet oil. I've noticed a little oil in cyl 4, which has also been throwing codes. So I'm fairly certain we've got a gasket leak now
Isn't that just spark plug gasket failure? In the valve cover.I pulled cylinder 7 to swap the plug and it was pretty heavily coated in wet oil. I've noticed a little oil in cyl 4, which has also been throwing codes. So I'm fairly certain we've got a gasket leak now
Mine were covered in oil. It's totally normal for a DOHC/SOHC engine as the plug tubes go through the valve cover and have seals at both end.
It could be. I have a little oil on Cyl 4 as well.
Is that fuel all over that plug? Regardless, that plug looks to have seen better days
You need to run the dry and wet compression test and post results. Without actual test data on the problem cylinder vs. the other cylinders it's hard to diagnose the problem. With test data we can work to point you in the right direction of what to look at next.
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- Thread starter
- #810
So this AT-205 fluid is interesting. Given my situation of tested solenoids, no issues with reverse and only hard shifts 3-4th gear before warming up, I am curious about giving it a try. It appears it won’t hurt anything and TBH, slightly overfilling makes my transmission operate more smoothly and missed hitting comes before warming up a few times.
Anyone else giving this stuff a try? I know most products are a bandaid and won’t fix things, but this one appears different in that it could help some O rings and sealing.
Anyone else giving this stuff a try? I know most products are a bandaid and won’t fix things, but this one appears different in that it could help some O rings and sealing.
I think that’s the verdict. The transmission gets cooked because all the heat nukes the fluid, which no one changes, which eventually causes all the internal rubber parts to fail. When those start to under perform and fail, it’s just a matter of time.
If you have a <80k mile transmission, start changing fluids. Like, a drain and fill every 30k miles, minimum. Add a cooler. Maybe pin your thermostat. You should be fine.
If you have an >80k mile transmission, do a drain and fill every oil change for awhile, add a cooler, pin your thermostat. You will probably still be fine.
If you have a >110k mile transmission, do all of the above, but start thinking about maybe AT-205 at some point and think about a rebuild long term.
My personal opinion is that a drain and fill helps and is better than nothing, but is a partial solution at best. Even with a 4 quart drain and fill, 75% of the old fluid remains in the transmission; the new fluid is instantly contaminated by suspended particles in the old fluid as well as the layer of sediment that remains in the bottom of the transmission pan.
If I had a 460 (which I do not
), I'd do a full fluid exchange with a pan drop/pan-and-magnet clean and get the crappy Toyota WS out of there - and replace all ~16 quarts of it with a full synthetic fluid such as Valvoline Maxlife, Mobil MV ATF, or the linked synthetic Idemitsu ATF, and repeat that on a cycle of no more than once every 50,000 miles. Which is what I do on my 470 - full fluid exchange every 3 years/~40K or so.- Thread starter
- #813
Yup, already followed this and do with all my Yotas. Unfortunately, got this at 105k and was totally fine before the dreaded codes.My personal opinion is that a drain and fill helps and is better than nothing, but is a partial solution at best. Even with a 4 quart drain and fill, 75% of the old fluid remains in the transmission; the new fluid is instantly contaminated by suspended particles in the old fluid as well as the layer of sediment that remains in the bottom of the transmission pan.
If I had a 460 (which I do not
Yes to all. If I can add anything, it is to add a cooler at any mileage, immediatelyMy personal opinion is that a drain and fill helps and is better than nothing, but is a partial solution at best. Even with a 4 quart drain and fill, 75% of the old fluid remains in the transmission; the new fluid is instantly contaminated by suspended particles in the old fluid as well as the layer of sediment that remains in the bottom of the transmission pan.
If I had a 460 (which I do not
Where do you get the 16 qt number from? I’m looking at 10.8-11.3 from rebuild.
On the cooler issue, I’m about to pull the trigger on parts for that. I would like to use a bigger Hayden…I see the links for the Goliath mount with the cooler, but no parts list to actually hook it up? I want to totally bypass the integrated radiator cooling…I want a fully separate circuit…
I used most of the OEM parts for from the small off road package transmission cooler.
@Acrad has a parts listed for this posted.
I think it’s the cleanest and most secure and reliable way to route the cooler lines through the radiator support.
I’d also suggest keeping the radiator in the circuit.
Transmission > radiator > cooler > transmission
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So far I’ve now crossed 900 miles since adding the AT205 and everything is working good as new. I haven’t changed the original fluid yet either, just added the AT205 to the original fluid inside my transmission at 157k miles. I have fresh Idemitsu fluid that I’m going to do drain and fills with 3 x starting in a week or so.
In my opinion there is no reason not to add 1 bottle of AT205.
- Thread starter
- #818
In these 900 miles, how has it helped? Does it shift normally the first 15 minutes, no codes, no hard shifts?
I already posted all this but just to refresh. The week before I added reverse failed to engage 4 times. I was only driving in sport mode the last 15k miles and stopped clearing the codes entirely because they always reappeared within a day or so.
After adding reverse has not failed once (it’s been about 3 weeks and 900 miles now). I have only driven in D, no sport mode since the 3rd day (150 miles) after adding the AT205. I have not had codes and everything has functioned flawlessly, shifts are just like they were when I bought the GX.
For me, as of now At205 cured all my issues entirely
- Thread starter
- #820
Thanks! Ordering a bottle!