Build GW Nugget's Budget Daily Lx450 build

Member Build Threads

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ppc said:
Why not sell the single bracket option at a lower price?
Click to expand...
At the price of the set, it still represents a bargain. JMHO I just ordered the set last nite for my 2.5 lift and well not be using the frame side bracket.
 
Last edited:
GW Nugget said:

@brosky is trying to convince me into trying the eimkeith front control arm weld in frame mount bracket.
Drilling a 18mm hole 1" forward vs. a weld in bracket. :hmm:
I would have to drill a 18mm hole 1" forward on the frame mount like others have, but have the issue of moving the MAF brackets forward also.
@eimkeith how many of these have you sold?
I know the rear panhard weld in bracket is getting traction. @joez got his welded in.
View attachment 2283785

View attachment 2283809
View attachment 2283835

I would also need to find a way to move the aft two 10mm crossmember bolts forward.​

View attachment 2283829

View attachment 2283834
Click to expand...
After looking at the pictures of your MAF brackets it appears there a lot more work then just drilling holes 1" foreword.:bang: 1) I think you would still need the plates that people use on the factory mounts, as when you drill the 2nd hole so close to the 1st you compromised the mount. ( last Pic ) 2) On the MAF brackets the plate that the two 10 mm bolts go into is going to crash into the factory mount , one or the other well need to be cut back. ( 3rd Pic) 3)Then you still need to address the two 10mm bolts ( extended the MAF brackets or weld new mounting points to the frame). Just sayin, plus I thing think Eimkeith are cleaner looking units. JMHO ;)
 
ppc said:
Why not sell the single bracket option at a lower price?
Click to expand...

To keep the retail prices reasonable, I have to order these in pairs in bulk - having specific quantities of each in inventory would drive the retail price up for everyone. Incidentally, my previous experience (I've been doing PCKs for the other models for a few years now) has been that only a small minority (like myself) will need just the axle side bracket, and several of those folks change it up later and end up needing the frame side after all.

(I don't want to clutter up this thread with product stuff, so feel free to send me a PM if there are additional questions)
 
Here is a update from Instagram...
Took the front flares off for summer, I didnt realize how much the flares cover.
Next pic is of a l beadlock leaking air. Retorqued & leak went bye bye.
Then my daughter driving solo for 1st time.
Just since some have asked the wheels are #BattleBornWheels Gatekeeper 3.5" BS 9" wide & 38" MileStars
 
Still in the middle of sorting out the fitment of the 38s on a 3" of lift.
Incase you are not familiar Instagram there is 9 pics & vids in there, just scroll to the right. Enjoy!


Screenshot_20200502-140414.webp


20200426_194257.webp
 
Last edited:
Yeah... looks like you'll need to do some cutting!
 
One step closer...


20200430_111928.jpg


Screenshot_20200430-112209.jpg


20200427_185547.webp
 
Last edited:
Getting close to finalizing the fitment of these 38s.
Im really debating on moving the axle forward 1". After moving the lower front skirting forward it's now hitting higher up in the none movable portion of the front skirting. This is only under extreme full turn, full articulation. In the real world it would be very rare if it will touch up there. I do have another option of moving it forward 8mm rather then a full 1" via a set of offset concentric frame mount bushings.
Im thinking its time to get the big hammer out... stay tuned.
Enjoy the vid.

20160524_183042.jpg
 
Last edited:
GW Nugget said:
Getting close to finalizing the fitment of these 38s.
Im really debating on moving the axle forward 1". After moving the lower front skirting forward it's now hitting higher up in the none movable portion of the front skirting. This is only under extreme full turn, full articulation. In the real world it would be very rare if it will touch up there. I do have another option of moving it forward 8mm via a set offset frame mount bushings.
Im thinking its time to get the big hammer out... stay tuned.
Enjoy the vid.
Click to expand...

That's why this is cut like this.
1588876365732.webp
 
Yeah, you need to school me but pics aren't doing your handy work any justice. I need to take another field trip to your garage...
 
Last edited:
@brosky invited me to go on his shake down run with some of his friends near Poza Saloon area.
It was a good time to get outside hit a few scenic fire roads.
20200517_083737.jpg

@Noahrob made the voyage with his new 37s & Monster liner. Looks sharp.:cool: :steer:
20200517_093704.jpg

Nice angle shot of The Broski
20200517_133412.jpg


IMG_2968.JPG

Broski took this shot.
1590335750038.png

​

20200517_092509.jpg
 
Last edited:
After moving the axle forward via the 8mm offset bushings the 38s were still rubbing the firewall only in extreme articulation fully turned.
I went ahead & installed the @eimkeith weld in drop brackets & removed 1" of front bump stop then went out to my local flexi spot.
The brackets have a 2" drop & 1" forward.
I have no more firewall or exhaust rub at all. I do have increased rubbing in the front upper fender, but only under the last quarter turn of the steering wheel while fully articulaed.
So at this time I achived my goal of fitting 38s on a 3" of lift with 4" of up travel.​
Screenshot_20200522-220329.png

20200523_212832.jpg

20200523_212901.jpg



20200522_192420.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sum poser shots...
20200522_201357.webp
Custom Image 23052020175037.webp
20200522_201523.webp
20200522_201633.webp
20200525_202150.webp
 
Im stuck at work on the 4th of July, but thank the Lord I have a job.
Just wanted to add some specs on the 2.5" of lift on 38s. Turns out my frame height is same as 37s on 4" of lift at 20".
20200529_195100.jpg

Here is how she sits.
Screenshot_20200529-185354.png

Front fender clearence is 6.5" would be 4.5" with stock fenders. The front uptravel is 4"
20200529_184350.jpg

The rear has 5" of room with 4" uptravel.
20200529_183713.jpg

As far as trimming rear fenders... I only pie cut & folded back the rear portion.
Screenshot_20200529-184705.jpg
 
Last edited:
Onto none suspension stuff now... been working on a none glue down one side foil heat shield. I chose to go with Cool-it Thermo Guard FR product., much cheaper then Dynamat.
48x72" I cut the 72" in half so it folded over the trans cover perfect. The install went better than expected.
The only issues I had was installation of the front seats cuz the holes didnt line up so good. Enjoy the video...

Screenshot_20200703-192644.png


​
 
Last edited:
I fixed the sloppy AC vents years ago, but shot a vid today to share with you all.
Enjoy.
​
 
Hey guys, Ive been wanting to do this for such a long time.
Wired up sum cheap china LEDs... Rock lights, Side shooters, a front Light Bar & 2 front down lights.
20200820_024753.jpg
20200820_025028.jpg
20200820_025006.jpg

Also half way finished with a roof rack, still need a few more sticks of ext. 80/20 1x2". That stuff is some spendy stuff.
20200819_150803.webp

Best part is my rig still fits through the 6'11" tall garage by 1".
20200819_150820.webp
 
I lifted my hood .5" & has helped temps about 3* degrees.
20200822_160854.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom